Slick 60's

So I replaced the battery and had the Alternator tested. Everything works fine, BUT I'm still losing juice from the battery. IT KEEPS DYING. After a few short trips, I lose voltage while driving and then the truck won't start.

Like I said the battery keeps dying. It basically runs off the charge it has til it dies again.

What's going on? Could it be the Voltage Regulator? If so, what should I look for here? How can I fix this??????????

Replace the voltage regulator.
U@ss

I can't decided which is the voltage regulator...

Is it like a rectangular piece looks porcelain or ceramic? or is it look more like a fuse?

Your name infers you have a 62 truck. 62's had generators, not alternators. The regulators are different and do not interchange. The information below refers to an alternator regulator, because you stated you replaced the alternator. Since (if) your turck has been converted to an alternator it is hard to tell where an electrical problem may lie.

Question: Is it like a rectangular piece looks porcelain or ceramic? or is it look more like a fuse?

Answer: None of the above.
The voltage regulator should be about 3" square and 1"-2" deep, depending on whether it is electronic or mechanical. It should have a metal cover and 4 terminals with a push on plastic connector.

Any decent manual will have a picture of a voltage regulator.

Good luck.

Roger Carter

I'm sorry I should have been more specific. The engine is a 69/70 290 V8 C6 engine. It's not the original 62 engine.

The regulator could look like this

or this


Here is some background from fordification
http://www.fordification.com/tech/charging.htm
Tech

So there's some chance my truck's porceline deal is OE?

I know, I know. Please forgive me.

Phil,
Are you refering to the resistor (porcelain deal) on the left inner fender? That appears to be an aftermarket resistor. Those were typically used to reduce the voltage going to the ignition system. Some electronic conversions and some coils required the use of an additional resistor, with the stock resistor wire.
From the color of the wiring, it looks like that is the case with your truck.
Also, the porcelain resistor may have been installed to replace a defective resistor wire, also.

As an aside, from where the resistor is installed and wired in the system, it appears the "start" ignition power could run through the resistor. This could cause harder starting than necessary.

With the ignition "on" you should check the voltage at the (+) terminal of the coil. The voltage should be 8-9 volts. If the voltage is much less you should find the problem and correct it. Low voltage can cause a number of problems, none of them good. Higher voltage will reduce ingition component life.

The original Ford resistor is a "resistance wire" grouped with, but not in, the main under dash wiring loom. The resistance wire was usually pink in color and covered by a braided cloth loom.

Hope this helps.

Roger Carter

Before replacing anything, make sure your grounds are good.

The porcelain thing is a resistor to drop the voltage to the coil.
I used one to replace the pink resistor wire in my truck.
You need 8 volts max to the coil or you will burn up the windings inside it.
If you're putting more volts than that it will cause the motor to quit and not start until it cools down.
Check the voltage at the + terminal on the coil. 6-8 volts means its probably ok.
When you say it won't start, will the starter turn over or does it go slow and then start clicking?
If so, you need to have the alternator checked and then replace the voltage regulator if it checks out.
Hot motor = higher compression.
Low battery = hard start against the compression.
Replace the regulator and see if that doesn't help things out, but make sure you have the correct regulator. There is one for a generator and one for an alternator and they do not interchange.
Uncle Skip