I did a search and didn't really find what I was looking for...
My plan is to convert her over from 3/4 and replace the trans with an auto.
Has anyone done a 3/4 to 1/2 ton conversion on their Slick? If so, what should I look out for? This 8 lug set up is killin' me. I would like to go down to a five lug set up for more wheel combination choices. Also, for what I do with my truck, the 4spd with Granny and Dana 60 is overkill and makes in town driving a pain in the butt.
Will I have to replace the I beams and or spindles?
Will the 1/2 ton hubs fit on the spindles?
Are the king pins the same?
Any info or pics would be great!
3/4 to 1/2 ton conversion?
Get the beams, steering linkage, etc from a 73(?) - 79 F 150 and do the disc conversion at the same time - you'll need a Slick rear axle or move the spring perches on the later axle from the donor. If you gear your rear axle lower it won't be as bad to drive - you don't use 1st gear in a granny 4 speed for normal driving anyway.
Last edited by Greg D on November 4, 2009, 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
64fordf100292v8
- Posts: 150
- Joined: July 20, 2006, 6:34 pm
- Location: Billings, MT
Just a note, When I converted my truck from 1/2 to 3/4 ton I had to drill out my rear spring hangers from 9/16 to 5/8. Not sure what would be the best route for going backwards unless you left the 3/4 ton springs in it. Or you could maybe just use the 3/4 ton main leaf and restack the leaf pack for better ride, stance etc.
Thanks for the replies fellas! This is the kind of stuff I need to know.
I was teaching the wife how to drive the Slick... Well let's just say I had visions of the pistons coming up through the hood. She asked why the truck didn't do that when I drove.
Hahaha... Don't I know that!Greg D wrote:you don't use 1st gear in a granny 4 speed for normal driving anyway.
I was teaching the wife how to drive the Slick... Well let's just say I had visions of the pistons coming up through the hood. She asked why the truck didn't do that when I drove.-
banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
I absolutely second Greg's idea to use a '73 - '79 donor truck.
Here is what I would clarify:
1. This donor recommendation applies ONLY to '65 and later. If you have a '64, this will not work. Perhaps I overlooked, it, but I didn't see what year truck you want to convert.
2. Use only the front of the '73 or later. Get all the parts between the power disk brake pedal and the grease caps on the rotors. Pull the donor I-beams for now if necessary; you can drive out the king pins from the donor truck later. Don't forget the brakes lines, as you can use them if not rotted, or at least use them for patterns if you decide to make your own. This becomes important if there is any time lag between harvesting the parts and doing the upgrade!
3. Also get everything between the steering column and the power steering box, including the pump and lines. Get the brackets and pulleys from the engine too. Even if the donor ones are not the right ones for your choice of engine, you can sell them as a complete set on E-bay easily.
4. Use a rear axle from a '68 - '72, and use a Ford rear to allow easy gear ratio changes. It will be a direct bolt up to your Slick. It will also give you a rear brake upgrade with wider shoes. You CAN use a '73 or later axle, but it is about 3 inches wider overall, and you will need to deal with wheel offset.
Good luck on your project!
Here is what I would clarify:
1. This donor recommendation applies ONLY to '65 and later. If you have a '64, this will not work. Perhaps I overlooked, it, but I didn't see what year truck you want to convert.
2. Use only the front of the '73 or later. Get all the parts between the power disk brake pedal and the grease caps on the rotors. Pull the donor I-beams for now if necessary; you can drive out the king pins from the donor truck later. Don't forget the brakes lines, as you can use them if not rotted, or at least use them for patterns if you decide to make your own. This becomes important if there is any time lag between harvesting the parts and doing the upgrade!
3. Also get everything between the steering column and the power steering box, including the pump and lines. Get the brackets and pulleys from the engine too. Even if the donor ones are not the right ones for your choice of engine, you can sell them as a complete set on E-bay easily.
4. Use a rear axle from a '68 - '72, and use a Ford rear to allow easy gear ratio changes. It will be a direct bolt up to your Slick. It will also give you a rear brake upgrade with wider shoes. You CAN use a '73 or later axle, but it is about 3 inches wider overall, and you will need to deal with wheel offset.
Good luck on your project!
Slick
He's got a 65 truck http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... ht=#101777banjopicker66 wrote:I absolutely second Greg's idea to use a '73 - '79 donor truck.
Here is what I would clarify:
1. This donor recommendation applies ONLY to '65 and later. If you have a '64, this will not work. Perhaps I overlooked, it, but I didn't see what year truck you want to convert.
2. Use only the front of the '73 or later. Get all the parts between the power disk brake pedal and the grease caps on the rotors. Pull the donor I-beams for now if necessary; you can drive out the king pins from the donor truck later. Don't forget the brakes lines, as you can use them if not rotted, or at least use them for patterns if you decide to make your own. This becomes important if there is any time lag between harvesting the parts and doing the upgrade!
3. Also get everything between the steering column and the power steering box, including the pump and lines. Get the brackets and pulleys from the engine too. Even if the donor ones are not the right ones for your choice of engine, you can sell them as a complete set on E-bay easily.
4. Use a rear axle from a '68 - '72, and use a Ford rear to allow easy gear ratio changes. It will be a direct bolt up to your Slick. It will also give you a rear brake upgrade with wider shoes. You CAN use a '73 or later axle, but it is about 3 inches wider overall, and you will need to deal with wheel offset.
Good luck on your project!
I suggest just using the newer I beams, there is a difference in the steering stops on I believe 1975 up spindles.
Grab the proportioning valve and brake line brackets too.