Slick 60's

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Direction?

Not sure how to go about cleaning and what fluid to add etc.

Well start by getting a rebuild kit....take the master cylinder off the fire wall and clean it real well, put it the kit, re-install. Then pull each of the drums off and look at your wheel cylinders. If they are clean and move freely you're good to go, if not hit the Zone (they had all four for my 61 at a lot less than NAPA and Carpenter). Flush the lines, get clean fluid to all four corners. Should stop given the rest of the system is OK.

What I would recommend is to change over to a dual chamber Master cylinder. We have changed using this master clylinder:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 6838774___

You will also need to run new hard lines to old tee to the front and rear wheels and from the looks of your master cylinder your wheel cylinders will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Also check the condition of the rubber flex lines to the Brake backing plates.

Obsa wrote:What I would recommend is to change over to a dual chamber Master cylinder. We have changed using this master cylinder:

X2


Obsa: Is that MC you listed for disc/drums? or for drum/drums?

another good way to stop em is disc brakes theres no way id trust my life with 4 wheel drums

Hmmph! Considering that I am pretty much idiot boy with this stuff-- I am already in way over my head with the engine that I took out of the F250--I went with the cross my fingers and hope method. I wiped off the crud that I could, cleaned the rubber cap insert dealie and filled the cylinder with Dot 3.
Funny thing is I got so disappointed with myself for being lame mechanically that I removed the engine hoping to learn with the thought process that I could drive the slick while taking my time learning on the 250. Now, after reading these replies, I'm worried about driving the slick and having the brakes fail.
Ever feel like Charlie Brown?

Gritsngumbo wrote:

Obsa wrote:What I would recommend is to change over to a dual chamber Master cylinder. We have changed using this master cylinder:

X2


Obsa: Is that MC you listed for disc/drums? or for drum/drums?

That is the one we have used twice on drum/drum brakes on both the 66 (which now has been changed to PDB) and on the 63.

while i agree with changing that out for the dual mc, disc brakes are a personal choice. i keep all my drum brake systems maintained properly and have had no issues with stopping.

the mc conversion is very simple and easy to do.
i would suggest you start with the mc conversion , and make sure your shoes, wheel cylinders and drums are in good condition, then later if you desire you can change to discs.

When you get your dual Master; if it's a 65-66 get one from a 70 F 100 - if it's a 61-64 get one for a 68 Mustang. There are some pics of the one in my 62 in here if they help you.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647

Greg D wrote:When you get your dual Master; if it's a 65-66 get one from a 70 F 100 - if it's a 61-64 get one for a 68 Mustang. There are some pics of the one in my 62 in here if they help you.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647

Hey Greg, why the different master cylinder on the 65-66? We used the 68 mustang MC on both the 66 and the 63. I am sure that either one will work

Hey I agree hands down no chances on brakes. Although I drove my 64 and the 66 using the single pot system I always maintained the drum/drum and knew their limitations. While I did "push" the limits at times on the 64 (I was younger and still thought I was invulnerable) on the 66 I hardly ever saw more than 50MPH and my round trip work drive was a little more than 10 miles. When my son started driving the 66 we changed to the mustang MC which worked very well. We also put the same part on the 63 again it works perfectly. I was doing a bit of research and noticed that both the 68 Mustang MC and the 70 F100 MC use a 1 inch piston. As you stated both are availible in all four configurations, which I assume has to do with internal valve sizing.

ICEMAN6166 wrote:while i agree with changing that out for the dual mc, disc brakes are a personal choice. i keep all my drum brake systems maintained properly and have had no issues with stopping.

the mc conversion is very simple and easy to do.
i would suggest you start with the mc conversion , and make sure your shoes, wheel cylinders and drums are in good condition, then later if you desire you can change to discs.

Well said, Iceman!

I have no worries running my drum/drum Slicks. In fact, one of my Slicks still has the single-reservoir master brake cylinder, and I'm not concerned to drive it as the system is in good shape. However, if the MC was to go bad, I wouldn't put $$ into it, I'd step up to a dual-reservoir unit for it.

Jacobd,
Don't let the 'big picture' scare ya,,,, take it on in small, do-able tasks.
You do have a Haynes or Chilton's manual, correct?
If not, you should get one as it will explain how many of the systems in your Slick function.


BarnieTrk

I have another question. Our 66 has been stored in an open barn since I last drove it about 3 years ago. Went to move it and the brake pedal went to the floor, The MC is dry and rusty looking inside.I am worried that the steel brake lines may be rusted on the inside. I had one rust through and blow out on me in a Dodge 4x4 several years ago! Is there a source for the brake lines, or will I need to buy the straight ones at the parts store and bend up my own? And if so, do they have whatever it would take to covert to the dual MC at the same time?
Thanks for your help.

Call Inline Tube or check their website.
They have custom bent lines for your truck, and will make special lines in case you have converted to a dual master cylinder and or disk brakes.
U@ss

Uncle Skip wrote:Call Inline Tube or check their website.
They have custom bent lines for your truck, and will make special lines in case you have converted to a dual master cylinder and or disk brakes.
U@ss

Skip: That is good information to know. I had intended to PM you and ask that question, but hadn't gotten it done yet. I would like to have new lines, but didn't want to have to hack into the new "original" lines for the dual MC.

Ahh, yes..... a brake tube bender. My first encounter with one resulted in quite a "patience builder" experience.....

BarnieTrk

Greg D wrote:I am guessing a good tubing bender is a bit cheaper. You will also have it if you need it again.

The tubing benders are relatively cheap the real costs is a flaring tool that works on stainless and makes the double flare!

The one I have is like this. It takes 2 hands and some getting used to but makes VERY accurate bends once you get the hang of it. I don't care much for the pliers style benders.

http://www.etoolcart.com/tubebender-imp368fh.aspx