Slick 60's

I was wanting to get a feel for the need of having points. Im new to this so forgive me in my most basic of questions. I saw points being changed once and I only recall someone saying "now don't do this" followed by a laugh. Is this a worthwhile upgrade? how long to points last? Is there something better than the ignitor 2 without spending $100s

Pertronix.
No burned points, bad condensers, or changing gaps.
If you're nervous, keep a set of points and a condenser in the glove box as backup.
I love my Pertronix.
U@ss

i see there are different types, which one are you using skip. ignitor 1, 2, 3,

i will keep my points.
simple ,inexpensive and easily changed.
been doing them so long i can eyeball the gap close enough for the engine to run.
i check mine with the dwell meter when i change my oil and reset if necessary. i only buy USA made standard blue streak points and ignition components.generally i can get a couple years out of a set depending on how many miles are driven.

cost prohibits carrying a spare new pertronix in the glovebox,so most people i know with pertronix keep a set of points in the box in case they need a roadside repair as pertronix are not readily available in the parts stores.

points do require a bit more maintenance to ensure they gap is correct but to me its not an issue.

now i sit back and let the rest of the folks tell me how i am stuck with ancient technology and i should "upgrade".
fact is i have had the pertronix on an engine and noticed no improvement over the points other than not needing to check the gap/dwell.

I'd go with points over Pertronix because of the availability issue. What engine are you running? You might be able to simply swap a duraspark II from the junk yard. It'll cost less than $100. With Duraspark, you can get replacement parts at any parts store. Upgraded Duraspark will eat Pertronix for lunch.

HEI
________
Mazda Bongo picture

I respect and value both that replied so thank you. honestly I don't know what my new one comes with, so i was just asking. Is there a how to anywhere for changing the points safely?

240 and T18 4sp

now i sit back and let the rest of the folks tell me how i am stuck with ancient technology and i should "upgrade".

not e v e r y o n e . . . . . .

i like the K I S S method...

Kansan's
Is
Sure
Slow

points are more maintenace... but at least i can fix em

I'm with Uncle Skip, only besides the old points in the glove box, make sure there's a screwdriver to change them. I learned the hard way. Running Ignitor II with no issues. Like that it looks stock too.

slickmainer wrote:I respect and value both that replied so thank you. honestly I don't know what my new one comes with, so i was just asking. Is there a how to anywhere for changing the points safely?

240 and T18 4sp

only safety related thing regarding changing points is make sure the key is off. that way you are not making sparks close to the carburetor.

Petronix, will make the engine run like a totally different engine. Unbelievable how much better it runs. This is what I run now on all my y blocks. Won't mess with a set of points again unless forced to. Occasionaly I run points as I don't want to spend the money to convert, if I'm selling the truck.

Rich

Pertronix here too and I do keep a set of points in the truck just in case.

if yer runnin a 240 get a dsII and a HEI module.

I have the Pertronixs set up in my truck and I too, love it. Just in case, I do also keep a set of points in the truck. I have the 240 3spd column shift.

I have pertronix on my 223 and its fine...never had a problem with points either...But pertronix is easier...

Points for me. I carry an extra set in the glovebox along with a capacitor, screwdriver and matchbook. What is the matchbook for? The thickness of the matchbook cover is close to what the points should be set at.

Jake

i will do pertronix on my 66 and 70 when i get around to affording them. i had it on my 68 360 and it was dead nuts reliable.

My choices are, in order of preference: 1, dura spark distrubiter with MSD controller box and E coil. 2, dura spark distrubiter with stock controller box and E coil. Points as a last resort. As you can see I don't like stock coils, E coils are more reliable and provide a hotter spark. To convert most Ford distrubiters to magnetic pickup is too easy and elemanates all the messing around with points and I have had only one duraspark box fail me ever. The E coil needs a 12 volt switiched power source not the reduced voltage from the ignition switch

For a 240, a straight DSII distributor swapped in from a 70's 300 wouldl be an excellent upgrade. Then spend $15 for an extra module in the glove box and you will have reliablility AND performace.

For me, to keep original appearances, I went with a Pertronix Ignotor II.

One person asked about Ignitor I versus Ignitor II.

I favor the Ignitor II. It has a variable dwell, which gives slightly better high RPM performance. BUT, more importantly, the Ignitor II has overload protection, so if you leave the switch on, it won't burn up. The Ignitor I will *sometimes* cook itself if you leave the switch on.