Slick 60's

How hard would it be to remove a front fender from a truck in the junkyard? Mine is dented pretty good along the back side of the wheelwell.
I see the bolts on the topside, and along the radiator support. Are there any hidden bolts that would be hard to get at out in the junkyard? I guess I could just start taking mine off, but I thought I would ask first.

Theres a bolt inside the cab you will see a small access cover around where the top of the fender is. there also is a bolt on the bottom rear of the fender on the inner edge. theres some on the upper & lower valance also.

If its warm there watch for the wasp nest thats in there.

not all of the trucks came with a cover on the access hole inside the cab, i remember that being one of the first things i asked when i joined slicks because cold air came thru the hole before i found covers at the salvage yard.

Don't forget the 3 at the bottom around the end of the gravel shield and mine had one or two on a rubber mount on the firewall.

Bring some Bandaids

Willy_B wrote:Bring some Bandaids

And penetrating oil.

don't forget the ones one the front edge of the fender behind the grill.

Gene, its in the classified site
http://groups.msn.com/Slick60sClassifie ... ngine.msnw

Depending on how bad that upper bolt is, I found a sawsall with a long metal cutting blade works good if you need to cut it. Had to do it on both my fenders.

and it actually worked
http://groups.msn.com/slick60sfordfseri ... l_topics=1

scroll down to message 5.
i could not upload the images to here.

It's easier to take the whole frontend off the truck, and take it to where you can get air tools to it. In fact, you might be able to buy the whole frontend for the same price as the fender or close to it. The n take the whole thing home where you can roll it around. Don't know what rust is like in your area, but around here, rusted together bolts are the norm. If your lucky, they've grown together and break when you go to break the nuts loose. Wear leather gloves and expect blood even then, when doing it in the field. Teh worst ones are up in the front corner, as some I've run into have stamped spring nuts, that break before coming loose.

Rich

Thanks for all the help, I now have a good idea where everything is. Now I can go out and take mine off, then take what tools I needed out to the junkyard and get one.

No major rust on my truck, and none, that I remember, on the ones in the yard. Nothing like when I lived up in Illinois.

only truck i ever had problems with bolts was the one 64 that came from Michigan. most of the ones i have here were built in the SanJose plant and must not have spent much time in any rusty places as the bolts usually come off easy.
it is a whole lot easier to remove the whole clip though, because you have a much easier time when you can see what you are doing.

I have found in some cases on bolts with clipnuts its better to tighten until the head breaks off than to have it come halfway out then spin on you. Might carry a 12mm for bolts with rotten heads also