Slick 60's

Where can I find the items identified in the picture as washer, bushing, and bar assembly? They are not necessarily the parts circled. It's kinda urgent that I find these.



If someone knows the ID of the tube, and the OD of the pivot, that will help, too. I might be able to make a sleeve to get me home.

Charlie,

This might be very little help, but here you go.....the top-hat shaped bushing on the rod is nylon and those washers are a felt type material, when I took mine apart they were saturated with grease. With your skills you could probably fab something that would work just fine (maybe leather). The bushing you might find in a hardware or parts store. I am pretty sure Carpenter's does not have any of these but it might be worth a try. Good luck, let us know the outcome.....with pics!

LMC has the bushings but not the bar assembly or felt washers. They actually do have the assembly and washers but only for 68-72 so I'm guessing they wont work. If its just to get home, you really don't need the washers. As far as I can tell, they just help to hold in the grease.

the 67-72 linkage rods are the same size as the 61-66 so the bushings will work.same goes with the felt.

i get a lot of stuff like that out of later model trucks.

When I was putting my truck back together I couldn.t find my felt washers so I improvised. I took a worn out 3M sctchbrite pad and cut 4 washers and put two at each end of the tube. Seems to hold the grease in just fine and looks correct.

are your bushings brass or plastic. my 65 has a plastic ball that sticks in the tube. my 63 used a split brass bushing that fit around the ball then stuck in the tube. check here for parts I saw them on this link. Just dont know if there plastic or brass.
http://www.classicautoparts.com/pdfinde ... pdf#page=1

I don't know what the bushings are because they aren't there. I guess that's why it wore through the tube. However, I think I've located bushings and felt.
Does anyone know if a 63-64 equalizer bar will work on my '61? Apparently they're different.

At lunch, I'm going to pull the equalizer off. I suspect that the failure that occurred today was a result of the remaining metal bending. I'm going to bend it back, and use hose clamps to hold it in place. Hopefully that'll get me 3.5 miles home.

2wdf100/250 61-64 should be the same
4x4 /f350 are different

Take a look at the NPD online catalogs for Mustangs.

http://www.npdlink.com

I need the pictures!

That's where I picked up my felt washers. The BIG block Mustangs use a larger diameter than the small blocks ones.

They have a truck catalog too.

Well, the clamp idea was good, but it was just too much pressure. I'm gonna 1st gear it to a friends house who is a little closer, only a mile or so. There I will be able to work on it at a little less frantic pace. Perhaps I'll just go ahead and try the hydraulic setup. I've been wanting to.

someone did a hydraulic throwout bearing and eliminated all of the linkage pieces.
tells about it here, starting a few posts from the top
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... ut+bearing

ok now for those who missed it on my earlier post the hydro setup i have on my 63 is EXTURNAL no dropping the trans involved !!! please check novack engineneering or do a search for novack clutches they have the bracket and slave cyclinder as fot the master i went with a willwood INPORTAINT make shure that the bores is the same diameter or it will not be correct . it work verywell on my 63 and will ease your leg pains anyquestion pm me and will get you going oh the install is very simple

Ok, it is safely at my friend's house.

Actually, I was thinking I'd go with the setup that came on the big trucks. It can't be any worse than the mechanical linkage which I really don't have a problem with. Or can it?
My Firebird has a similar setup and I like it.

I can't validate the $450 price for the Mcleod bearing. My experience with new stuff is not good. If I can find several people who have used one on a daily diver for years and has racked up 20k plus miles with no problems, then I'd consider trying it. So far the only people I've met who use them have show cars that barely come out to play.
Given the relative complexity involved in replacing it when compared to an external slave, it's just not something I want.

I just discovered I can get a new slave cylinder locally. If I use a 1958 F100 as the application, it shows that the master cylinder has a 1 1/16" bore and the slave cylinder has a 1 " bore. Of course, the '58 master cylinder will not bolt up to my firewall. Anyone know if the use of a 1" brake master cylinder will cause a problem? The benefit will be less effort but a potential problem is that the slave will not move far enough to disengage the clutch. Otherwise, I'd have to have one shipped.

With 1 1/16" master, 1" of piston travel = 1.129" of slave piston travel.
And, of course the 1" master will equal 1" of slave travel.
Anyone know how far the clutch fork travels to disengage the clutch?

the 58 mc should bolt up to the 61-64 firewall, unless its drastically different from a 60 and i dont think so.
the holes are there, they have knockout plugs to the right of the brake mc

The '58 mc has 4 bolt holes. It would probably bolt in place of the brake mc with the plate removed. So then I can just swap the roles of the pedals

I know I've seen a clutch master cylinder for our trucks in various catalogs. It looks very much like the brake master cylinder. Now I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find one? Or, if anyone has one on the shelf, can you measure the bore?

page 94
www.lmctruck.com

Unless I'm overlooking it, they list only the '57-'60 master cylinder which fastens with 4 bolts.