Slick 60's

looking for ideas on 66 step stide, started to build a gasser but soon found out my frame is not in any shape to be modified or drivin on in that case. ditching the gasser idea and now want to put a newer frame under the cab and bed. which frame is the best solution, s-10 , ranger, later model f-150 or is there something out there better than those.... thanks fellas

S-10 & the Ranger are not big enough for your truck. A 73/79 F150 frame is a good choice.

If you are going to do a lot of fabrication to put a new frame under it, make sure you have the title to the new frame and check the laws in your state about doing this. You doing want to go down that road just to find out you can't drive it.

The front clip and cab from a 66 is a straight bolt on for the 67 to 72 frames (f100/f250). The problem you will have is the bed will have a little gap as these frames are slightly longer in wheelbase.

The 73 thru 79 frames will not match up with your rear cab mounts. The cabs from those vehicles are two inches longer.

I am taking my 65 f100 cab and front clip and putting it onto the frame of a 69 F250. Like madmax said though, have the title for both.

Sean

we have a 66 shortbed frame if interested.but it was styleside if it makes any difference. pm me thanks eddie

I have got my '66 F-250 sitting on a '76 F-250 highboy chassis and everything on the cab and front clip bolted right up... I had to re-drill the holes for the bed to bolt down and the gap is about 2 1/4 inches between the cab and bed.... If you don't mind the gap, go for it..... I did and I am glad I did... I have dual caliper power front discs, 2 1/2" rear power drums overload springs, 4 wheel drive, power steering and will eventually have air.... not to mention, 34" tires with no modifications to the suspension...

frames should be the same whether a flairside or a fleetside...
Good luck on the hunt and let us know what you decide to do and don't forget the pics...

I did the 79 frame swap. Unless your frame is rusted in half, keep it! I'm not a great fabricator by any means but I was able to make it work. The 2 inches extra statement is correct. Mine ended up being at the front. My bumper stuck out and left a gap. I was not going to have a funny spaced bed/cab issue so I opted to keep the original bumper and add to it and fill in the space by welding more metal onto the top side of the bumper. 79 frame is also wider at the back which means the holes for the bed did not line up. Used the 79 axel which is also wider and caused tire clearance issues once I put some fatter tires under the truck. Anyway I could tell you more, but unless your dead set on a new frame, fix what you have.

I have a 64 frame with parallel leafs and single front axle ... make a great gasser frame. . . dont know where you are.. but It is for sell. Im located in Central Arkansas. I have a cab and a few other elements for sale as well... just let me know.

The front clip and cab from a 66 is a straight bolt on for the 67 to 72 frames (f100/f250). The problem you will have is the bed will have a little gap as these frames are slightly longer in wheelbase.

The 73 thru 79 frames will not match up with your rear cab mounts. The cabs from those vehicles are two inches longer.

If a 66 Is a direct bolt on to 67-72 chassis(cab and rad support only) then 66 cab and rad support will bolt on 73-79. Ive done the 79 chassis, 72 body swap. Would do it again in a heartbeat. Nothin more than a weekend job (with a case of beer, and a couple of buddy's help". From the cab, rearward is where the extra 2 inches come into play. What I did, was split the difference. Extra inch between the cab and box, and wheel sits an extra inch back in the wheel well. You have to know about it to notice it.

I have a 66 F250 2wd cab sitting on a 74 F250 2wd frame. It bolts right up. Behind the cab is more work, as others have said. I don't have the bed completely mounted yet, but I had to weld brackets and tabs on the frame in a few places to bolt the bed to the frame. I am moving the bed forward to keep the bed-to-cab space about right (eyeballing the gap, not measuring it). The frame at the rear will likely need to be trimmed. There may be an easier way to do it, but I don't have great fabrication skills. I'm using a floor of another longbed for lineup, and will alter the "good" bed as needed once the bed holes are functional.

I like the benefits of a wider rear track (I am using narrow tires because this will be a towing pickup), big disc brakes, and dual tanks between the frame rails, among other things, but it is a lot of work for me. Not sure at this point if I would do it again, but ask me that question when I'm done!

Here are a few pics: