Slick 60's

Hi all,

Every now and then, my column shifter locks up when I'm shifting gears and I'm unable to get it working without popping the hood and working the linkage. It pops loose and then everything works fine again.

On either end of each shift linkage is a rubber/brass bushing. Both bushings by the column look new but the ones down by the trans look pretty shot. There's quite a bit of linkage slop at the lower bushings.

Since it shifts fine most of the time, I'm suspecting that the lower bushings cause intermitant binding and are the source of my problem. Does this sound right ? Also, can someone confirm for me that the lower bushings are the same as the upper bushings ? I can only find the upper bushings in my parts catalog.

thanks.

John.

Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.

You don't say which year truck you have, but there are a number of factors involved in the shift linkage of our trucks, not related directly to the transmission. If, your cab mounts are bad, this will cause problems with the linkage. By cab mounts, I don't just mean the rubber discs the cab sets on, but also metal failure from rust decay or cracking from metal fatigue. This lets the cab move around changing shift linkage settings. This can cause binding of the steering on 61 thru 64 trucks, and rag joint failure on the 65 and 6 trucks, along with premature wear on all components affected. To the best of my knowledge, there are no bushings on the lower linkage arms. If badly worn, then you must rebuild these with resouorces at hand. I have brazed holes shut, and then drilled new holes the right size, and also brazed the wear psots on linkage rods and filed these to fit. Usually means I ahve to redrill the holes for the hairpin clips or cotter keys.

Rich

mikecarson wrote:Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.

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if the problem is indeed the slop in the lower end of the linkage, you could make little bushings from copper pipe like they use for natural gas or brass fittings. you might have to drill the linkage holes slightly bigger to fit the "bushings"...other than that 64 f100 pretty much covered it.

Thanks for the info. My truck is a 65 2WD. The cab mounts and rubber pucks are in good shape. I'll start by replacing the lower bushings and see what happens.

My truck does this once in a while as well. It is a 66 f100. I also noticed that one of my cab mounts is bad. thnx for the info on this matter because I always just assumed that it was part of the problem of owning one of these. like a bug or something.

lincolnslick wrote:

mikecarson wrote:Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.

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Some child with some bad language made a post that has since been deleted, along with the child.

check you repair manual for adjusting the shift linkage. I had the same problem along with a cracked shift collar for the previous owner trying to jam the tranny into gear. The adjustment sounds strange as you adjust till the linkage goes together without pulling, the turn it several turns tighter. Mine is a '65 and the adjustment worked. check the repair manual for the number of turns. if you don't have a repair manual and do have a '65, I'll look it up again and sent it to you.

Thanks Mike C!!


On my "65" 3 on the column the trans shifter arms have brass and rubber bushings.

Mine a re a little loose.

On the top of the column next to the column shifter arms is a raised tunnel.

I took my shift rods off of the trans arms and put a 1/4" drill bit in the tunnel and through the column shift arm holes.

This holds the column shift arms in nuetral.

Then adjusted the threaded dealys till they went into the shifter arms smoothly.

As a post above said, you are supposed to adjust them up a few more turns tighter.

Since I had some wear I just went by how the shifter arm felt when in the cab.


By the way, I need a couple of those clips that hold the shift rods onto the trans arms.

Richard.