Slick 60's

Hey All, I have been checking on all of the different options of a T-5 install behind the 223 in my 61 F100. I recently drove it from South Carolina to Houston, Texas. Ran great! Averaged 14 to 15 mpg. But, I was doing about 55 mph the whole time. Kinda dangerous on todays highways! I read something about an S10 T-5 convesrion. Has anyone done this. I know it's considered Chevy. But, this is a daily driver and I don't really want to drop more than a Grand into the conversion! Plus the horsepower of this engine doesn't really warrant a World class T-5. All help is appreciated!

The transmission is Tremec or I guess it will be Borg Warner depending on the year. Chevy just had them build a transmission to fit their engines.
What you actually do is swap an S10 tail housing onto the "Ford" transmission.
If you really want to save money, get a hold of a "Ford" T5 and see how well it will fit. The standard transmission fit fine in my '61 unibody. It's close but a shift handle with the right bend will work fine.

In this picture it's in 2nd, 4th, or reverse. Can't remember.

Kenny, aka 62 Galaxy, has done this installation and I'm sure he's glad to share the information. He drove his all the way from Houston to Slick Stock with no problems.
And the next time you're in Houston let us know. We'll try to meet up and get you some good grub with the club.
Uncle Skip

Yeah I read all about the S10 tailshaft swap before I put in my T5, but I ended up staying with the Mustang tail and it worked out okay. I just made up a shifter that bent forward at the bottom then up around the seat. Looks fine, works fine.

I need to do this soon, what clutch and year trans did you guys use? I need to do this asap on my 292 Y block.. Please help someone told me they had a kit for this for sale but cant remember who, I am interested.. Ryan

'83-'93 mustang. The clutch depends a lot on the transmission - a steel bearing retainer will require a different setup than an aluminum bearing retainer. With the aluminum retainer, a new clutch disc and t.o. bearing reducing sleeve will be needed at minimum. With the steel retainer, a different t.o. bearing is required, as well as a different pressure plate and disc.
Kenny might know more, but I don't think a definitive clutch swap has been found.

Because of the variations mentioned above, there isn't really a kit. You can get a lot of the stuff from John Mummert.

What did you use on yours? did you adapt it to your bell housing yourself? I have seen guys do it them selves, I have access to a mill so I got that covered, I can weld, got that covered.. Just at a loss when it comes to knowing what clutch, throw out bearing, and such. Did yours require an hydraulic set-up or did you use your cable set-up, and if you don't mind what sort of budget does this require, saying a man does all the labor himself.. lots of questions but my truck is not drivable at the moment due to the trans, and its killing me that its not drivable...So I have to do this.... Ryan

If I did it again I would use mummerts throwout bearing adapter. It allows use of late model clutch and pressure plates. I made a bushing for the stock throwout bearing sleeve. I used a regular clutch disc for a later model ford with the stock pressure plate and it worked. I wasnt happy with the minimal engagement of the disc so I had one made. 61 to 64 truck disc are thicker than all others. more info.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

I'm using a clutch from the same year range Mustang. I have an aftermarket flywheel which is drilled for the Mustang pattern in addition to the stock pattern. I had my bellhousing modified by John Mummert. Kenny did his himself. I'm currently using the stock clutch linkage.
I think you could do it for about $600.00, the most expensive aspects being the acquisition of a good condition transmission and having the drive shaft shortened. If you get everything new, you can spend $2000+ on it.

Do not use 83-early 86 trans no matter what. You can get them cheap but there is a reason for it. In 86 the T5 trans were redesigned because of the high failure rate. The newer ones are known as WC or World Class. They are easy to ID as there is a different counter shaft bearing cup on the earlier ones. Hawkrod

Pictures from www.flatheadv8.org note that the upper picture bearing looks like a machined cover with a definite outer ring and the lower one looks more like a freeze plug.

World Class T5:


Regular low po T5:

Ricbob16: Member Fred Martin (screen name: fmartin_gila) from Arizona put a T-5 behind a 223 "6" and it is a sweet setup. He drove in from Arizona to Iowa and back. I believe he used a later model T-5 (longer tailshaft) and a car-type adapter from John Mummert. Pretty much a bolt-in from what I understand. Shoot him a PM and I'm sure he will fill you in. He was planning on a trip out of the country, but not sure when.

I did the T-5 on my 300.

I have all the info I used on my website. Lots of T-5 Info and links.

There are pictures of where the shifter sits in relation to the seat.

Thanks for all the input. It is appreciated. I realized yesterday that I may as well go with a WC T-5 with the tailshaft modification from Modern Driveline. That way if or when the 223 fails (hopefully not anytime soon). I can just bolt it up to a modern fuel injected 5.0. It's going to get expensive. But, I figure it's worth it! Thanks again! Rick

rickrob16 wrote:I realized yesterday that I may as well go with a WC T-5 with the tailshaft modification from Modern Driveline. That way if or when the 223 fails (hopefully not anytime soon). I can just bolt it up to a modern fuel injected 5.0.

Make sure that is the case. For use with a Y block, the input pilot has to be shortened about 3/32". It might not be enough to be of any concern. And you can always make a spacer to sandwich between the trans and bell to move the transmission an adequate amount so that the transmission does not have to be altered.

To all, I am back in-country again, don't know how long though.

When I installed the T5 behind the 223, I used John Mummert's adapter setup because mine had a 3 spd in it. With using the adapter plate, you have to use the later T5 with the very long input shaft to compensate for the thickness of the adapter. Very easy modification. I left it the same as Charlie did with the stock shifter lower part and fabricated a upper lever with an offset of about 3 inches to clear the seat when in 2, 4, & R positions.

Fred