Slick 60's

Dual reservoir Master with Booster

This is a common upgrade that I started doing back in the early 80s. The best way I found was to use a master cylinder or a booster with master cylinder from a '67 F100/250, it bolts right in place, no modification needed. If using a booster you will need a set of mounting brackets from a '65 thru '72 F100/250. When connecting the brake lines the front reservoir goes to the rear brakes and the rear reservoir goes to the front brakes. The push rod will connect to the brake pedal without any modification, the connecting bolt is eccentric.

'61/66 master cylinder


'65 master cylinder with booster



'67 master cylinder with booster




'70 master with booster


'68/72 master cylinder


'73/77 master cylinder (disc brakes)


'65/72 booster mounting brackets

Hot Pocket!

won't the 73-79 mounts work too? I coulda swore that's what I used before...

The '77/79 brackets are different than the '65/72 brackets, I never tried the '73/76 brackets.

Ah, i'll have to look at the ones I have.

I used a 78 booster and bracket on my 66... it worked out just fine.

Bill W wrote:I used a 78 booster and bracket on my 66... it worked out just fine.

Did it bolt right up or did you have to make modifications to the pushrod to make it fit correctly ?

I'm doing this right now on my 62..I can add to this that the 65-72 bracket bolts onto the original 62 firewall plate studs and lines up perfectly with a pedal from a 65 installed on the 62 pedal bracket. The 65 pedal is longer and sits a little lower than the tractor type in the 62 and full travel is available. You can trim excess material off the bracket and spot weld bracket/firewall plate together, or leave it as is and use the firewall plate studs to bolt them together. The studs are in line with the rod and will withstand the linear force easily (no bending moment imparted on this assembly) when braking.

Seems to me that I remember the '88 and up Crown Vic masters are made out of aluminum and can be highly polished if any of you guys are into shiney stuff.
Maybe someone like HawkRod can tell you exactly what years.

So if I was to do this on a 64 f-100 what year bracket, booster/ master cylinder combo would I look for? I plan on keeping it 4 drum brakes for now, as I just went through them and they are working great now!

I got mine out of a 73 but it had to be a drum drum truck. Mine was on a drum drum 4wd 3/4 ton truck looks like the same one as the 72.

Perfect! So anybody have one for sale? Lol

Okay all set to make this change as we are trying to make this barn find quality 64 F100 road worthy in time for Pigeon Forge in May. Bought a new dual master cylinder for a 1967 F100 and a brake light pressure switch. Right, doesn't work that way. How do we hook up the brake lights to this conversion? The pressue switch doesn't screw into the master cylinder like the old, single pot type. Guidance or direction?

Did you get it figured out? Some guidance below.


http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs/Co ... linder.pdf

Was having surface rust problems in the bore of my dual master conversion (crazy, I know). I replaced with an 1-1/8 inch bore Wildwood all-aluminum unit. It's pricey but it's a pretty fine piece of business. Wilwood slotted the mount so it worked with our power booster studs center to center. No mods required for the piston push rod.

Here are the Wilwood details:
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... o=260-8556

Cheaper on the Speedway Motors site (comes in plain and polished versions):
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-T ... 37004.html