Slick 60's

I am cleaning up under the hood of Little Red and part of that exercise is returning to the manual fuel pump (to get rid of the wires and hoses of the electric pump) Decided to try to replicate (as closely as possible) the fuel line from the carb to the new fuel pump. Ordered 25 feet of steel line from NAPA and bought a $14 tubing bender from Lowe's and gave it a shot. I thought it turned out pretty nice, especially for a first attempt.

Here's what it looks like installed:


All I had to go by was what was there and it had been "modified" over time. My other trucks are V-8's.

Next I'm going to try to bend new a new line from the new master cylinder to the "block". Wish me luck with the "curls"

Yeah, I know, I know, the wiring is next to be "cleaned up". I hate all those loose wires.

That looks good and it looks like it belongs there. Tube bending can be very frustrating especially for us beginners.

Kevin

the only time i ever bent tubing from the master to the block i used a full beer can. worked pretty good. lol
nice work gerald.

Way to go! My one tip for the next phase is always remember to put the fitting on the brakeline BEFORE you flare it!! :) Don't ask me how I know:):)

James

jamesdfo wrote:Way to go! My one tip for the next phase is always remember to put the fitting on the brakeline BEFORE you flare it!! :) Don't ask me how I know:):)

James

another graduate of the school of hard knocks and busted knuckles

jamesdfo wrote:Way to go! My one tip for the next phase is always remember to put the fitting on the brakeline BEFORE you flare it!! :) Don't ask me how I know:):) James

Think that's called "practice"
Also did my first :"double flare" just as practice yesterday.

Looks good.

I had a hard time with my brake lines. Couldn't get them to seal. Ended up I was not torquing them enough.

Over torquing them has always been a fear of mine. I don't do plumbing well . For my house and business I have a plumber on speed-dial.

I've heard of people using a piece of pipe to wrap the line around to make the coil.
Any time you do brake lines, look carefully at the fittings. After 40+ years it's very likely that a previous owner tried his hand at replacing brake lines. If the flare was not square, the fitting had to be over tightened in order to seal which means that the seat has probably been cut into. Once this happens, you'll find it very difficult to get new lines to seal, probably having to resort to over tightening. If you find any damage in the sealing area, replace the fitting.
Make sure to ream the tubing after cutting. I also like to take a hand file to make sure the end of the tubing is absolutely level and square where it was cut.

Thanks guys for the comments and the advice. I was hoping to avoid re-plumbing the lines right now, but based on the condition of the line to the master cylinder I'm questioning the integrity of the entire system. I'll be sure to double/triple check the fit of the fittings.
Sure would be easier to re-do the brakes if I had a two-post lift, rather than trying to re-plumb laying on my back.

Gritsngumbo wrote:Over torquing them has always been a fear of mine. I don't do plumbing well . For my house and business I have a plumber on speed-dial.

and He hasn't called me yet!!

I've been bending tube for over 39 years now!, It`s a piece of cake!!,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,to stuff it up!, the double flares are pretty tough too!, I've only got a piss ant set of mechanical flaring tool! the work one is top of the line but won`t do double flares!, anyone know of a good cheap one?

My single Flare kit, I bought back in my apprentice days, it's a Blue-Point (aka: snap-On).....but ironically, a friend of mine's set is spot-on identical, lettering aside, and brand name on his is GRAY.
I picked up an el-cheapo double flare (bubble flare?) set that was on sale some time back at Princess Auto (Harbor Freight of the Great White North:):)
To date I haven't even broken the seal on the package, so no consumer report just yet.
Once I start building my Thames, I will go completely crazy & buy the fancy hydraulic one from Inline Tube or Classic tube, as all the lines on that build will be stainless.......going to take several weeks allowance for that though

James

ezernut9mm wrote:the only time i ever bent tubing from the master to the block i used a full beer can. worked pretty good.

Well, I gave the master cylinder line a go today. Didn't go as smoothly as the fuel line, although the circles turned out OK (used a rattle can instead of the beer can. Same size and saw no need to foam up good beer ) the overall product didn't wind up the way I wanted it to look, so Monday I'll start over. Practice.

Alan Mclennan wrote:

Gritsngumbo wrote:Over torquing them has always been a fear of mine. I don't do plumbing well . For my house and business I have a plumber on speed-dial.

and He hasn't called me yet!!

Didn't think I could afford the "trip charge"

Alan Mclennan wrote:The double flares are pretty tough too!, I've only got a piss ant set of mechanical flaring tool! the work one is top of the line but won`t do double flares!, anyone know of a good cheap one?

The one I have is a cheap one too, but it seems to do a pretty good job...even with me operating it. BUT, BUT, BUT I haven't run fluid through it yet .
Eastwood has a nice one, but it's $229 (not really cheap at all),
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-br ... -tool.html but I could probably justify by re-plumbing the brakes on a couple of my trucks instead of buying it pre-formed/flared from some place like Inline Tube. I like the fact that with the Eastwood tool you can cinch it up in a vise for a little more stability and without having to do it hand-held.

Grits, I have used one similar too that!, a mate owned it, so easy to use! I felt like making more joints than I needed!

I ordered a carb to pump fuel line from LMC once and it came completely different from my old one. I to bought a pipe bender. Practiced a couple times but think I got it now. No need for the line yet but I'll be ready when the time comes.

Looks good!
I will be going down that path soon as well for brake lines, hope mine turn out as good.

One of my car guy buddies used to work at Graingers, and he has a full set of tubing bending/flaring tools so I will be using him and his tools for my re-tubing projects.

Did that on mine not long ago. (Not brakes though)

Built a new vacuum line for the transmission modulator, ran it 3 inches from each end, and put a small piece of rubber line on it, instead of the 6 feet the PO had......

Just like welding and painting - fun to do but definitely need practice to be good at it.

And never fails (sometimes), just when you make the perfect double flare, you realize you forgot to put the fitting on first.

looks really good. i know it was prob agravating

Actually the 5/16 fuel line wasn't aggravating at all, but the little 3/8" brake line from the master to the junction block is a real PITA. I got it bent on and made the curls, but it still catywampus to me. I have five trucks with the "original?" lines and each one looks different (go figure).
UPDATE: Got it to look a little better and put it on. I'll take a picture tomorrow. No apparent leaks, but now have to bleed the brakes.