Slick 60's

well I got to drive it for about a mile.





no biggie but still a bummer. if it aint one thing its somethin'else,eh?

while i have this posted and its current: any ideas for a 1 piece driveshaft?

its a long bed with a short c6.

And things go"bump" in the night.................

i was so relieved to see the carrier bearing destroyed. when it happened i was like (expletive deleted)! because i JUST swapped the engine and tranny and have not been able to drive it since. so just for a moment I thought i was seriously (expletive deleted)ed!

sometimes I get blessed with an easy fix and I do see it as a blessing.

I have heard of some guys doing a swap for a one peice shaft. Any good shop with experince and the right tools can build one for you. I just think thats a little long and may cause some harmonics. I'd just change the carrier out and spend the dough elsewhere.

Lonnie

yeah the part is paid for and they will press it on for me monday morning.

i was just thinking about an upgrade, but it seems that wouldnt be what i would want to do.

Maybe it's the angle the picture is taken from, but it looks like the driveline may be going through the carrier bearing at a sharp downward angle. Of course, with the rubber out in the pic, it's REALLY on a funky angle, but just make sure it's mostly straight when you get your new one in there.

My thinking is that a sharp angle would prematurely wear the rubber & cause the bearing to spin free. Of course, I could be just blowin' wind, I haven't had any big carrier bearing failures before.

its at the angle because the bearing let loose. ill take a pic when i get it back together.

the thing is when i take off i have to press the gas lightly. if i mash it i get wheel hop. once i am rolling and i mash it I still get wheel hop.

i am of the impression that i will eat carrier bearings until i solve the wheel hop problem.

any ideas there?

okay here is what I see. Keep in mind its just my 2 cents worth. from the pic i looks like you made a bracket to relocate the bearing. When you do that you made the rear half reach further and leaving too long (see the distance between the shinny spot and the start of rear shaft yoke? that is typically about 1-1.5" from start of spline to weigth on wheels resting place of front yoke) of a reach for the rear section. When you get your wheel hop its not traveling as well as it should thus beating on the end of the shaft and the bearing is taking the abuse. In this case too much abuse. You are probably experiencing more then usual vibration but in the short time you drove it you didnt notice it. Yes you could use a 1 piece shaft (shaft length should not be more then 5') but with the length it needs to be a 2 piece shaft for load and vibration issues. Either way you need to lengthen the rear or whole shaft. I hope this helps. Mike

By the way your front shaft should be into the trans to a point were from where it bottoms out into the trans it needs to be pulled out no more then about 1.5 inches It looks like you have a seal with a boot so that shaft would have about half on inch from that boot. Mike

what happened was, the other c6 with the long tail was tight against the driveshaft (to the point of making a leak in the seal). I replaced it with a shorter tailed c6 (purely coincedental) and then the carrier needed moved forward 1.5 inches. the new drivetrain was actually vibrating less than the old one. at 20 mph the whole truck would feel like it was bouncing.


what about getting a longer front driveshaft and putting the carrier back where it was?

you havent done it yet. It would put the carrier bearing back where it belongs and should fix your bearing woes. mike

ok when the carrier is in the "original"(on the po's fabricated mount to relocate) position the rear shaft is at a steeper angle. and it vibrated badly and the drive shaft was seemingly too tight and didnt move well.


now it seems like its too sloppy and even with the better angle im still going to have problems until i get a shaft made.

at any rate i need to install this like it was so i can move the truck and worry about a drive shaft and probably another bearing later.

ok its back together and this is what it looks like. I called the driveshaft guy. looks like both need to be longer. i need more money.


anyway when i need to move it i can. i wont "drive" it just limp it over to where it can sit out of the way while the parking area gets done.

why not get a one piece d shaft with a double cardain joint at the yoke? throw out the carrier all together

double carden joint cause more then they fix.. Your pic shows that if you remove the add in bracket you could just lengthen the front half and be done with it. A 1 piece shaft is fine as long as you keep it under 5 feet but you can ask your driveshaft guy his opinion. Ive had to go in and fix the damage a long 1 piece shaft caused because it was too long. Its no fun towing in a stretch limo the second time when the shaft was too long. But thats a whole nother story. Not a pretty one either. Mike

I agree, move the carrier bearing rearward & have a shop lengthen the front half & you're good to go. I don't know what shops in your area charge, but I've had 'em done here for about $70 out the door, without any new yokes or joints.

Looks like the driveshaft angle is much improved.

yeah the drive shaft guy advised me to keep the carrier bearing.

ill try to find an original mounting point and check that out.

Slick Fan wrote:I agree, move the carrier bearing rearward & have a shop lengthen the front half & you're good to go. I don't know what shops in your area charge, but I've had 'em done here for about $70 out the door, without any new yokes or joints.

Looks like the driveshaft angle is much improved.

he was talking 225 to re tube the long one and balance them both. so it will most likely be alot cheaper for the short one.