Slick 60's

This came off a 1965 352 engine. I know it looks like crap, but I'm going to try to rebuild it. My problem is that autozone.com has 2 different rebuild kits when I put in 1965 Ford F100. There are no numbers on the carburetor itself. Can anyone help me out determining which kit I need?

Thanks!

Chris,
I just went out to the garage and looked at the one I bought for the 292, and it is identical except for the the vacuum pod you have on it.
The numbers on mine read C 3TF H on both the FOMOCO tag under the float chamber screw, and stamped on the side of the base, on the throttle linkage side.The Fomoco tag also is stamped with B 3GB
Underside shows 1-11-63 cast into metal, throttle side. Pretty sure the H stands for Holly.
John

To rephrase what Unibody Madness said about the carb number. Look on the side of the front mounting ear, driver's side, and you should find the carb number stamped into the carb base. This may not be a complete ID number, but it should be enough for the parts store to get the right kit.

The carb in the pictures appears to be a 2100 Autolite, not a Holley, and looks correct for a '65 truck with an auto trans, since it appears to be a manual choke carb and has auto trans kickdown linkage.
The "vacuum pod" Unibody referred to is actually an anti stall dashpot. These are designed to allow the throttle to slowly close, rather than slam shut, possibly killing the engine.

Uniboby's carb ID number says his carb is for a '63 (C3) truck (T). The number cast on the underside of his carb is the date the carb body was cast, January 11, 1963.
The "H" at the end is an specific identifier. A look in the parts book would give the specifics. Typically, this identifier would spell out which engine and trans the rig has, whether the carb was for high altitude use, and anything else about the carb.

Hope this helps.

Roger Carter

MOTORCRAFT Part # CT499D {#D4AZ9A586A} Carburetor Repair Kit

You guys are awesome! Thanks for the help!!!

based on the picture, i wish you lots of luck on the rebuild, i think it may have to much corrosion in the throttleshaft to save it

I'm really undertaking the rebuild because I've never done it before. I figured the $20 or so I spent on the kit would be worth the learning experience I'll gain from it.

Chris
What you got is a Autolite 2100 2 barrel- Ford used these carbs from the late Fifty's to the 70's these are a breeze to rebuild providing like cooter said the corrosion has'nt hurt the throttle butterfly shaft and/or clogged the internal passages, I use to rebuild these at my dads shop so many years ago it was one of the easiest one to rebuild.
Advance Auto has a kit GP Sorenson Part# 96-215 that will cover a large percentage of the 2100's($15.99)- you might check on a new float also.
The biggest issue when rebuilding one is to note the location and size of all the check balls, and put them back in the proper location- if you don't -it will not run right.
check this link for rebuild info http://hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/