Slick 60's

Um, it has been pointed out to me that maybe I am not being too safe in working my cab over to remove paint. With wire wheels. And no safety protection.
Ok, point well taken. (Thanks James.).
Would it be economical enough to sandblast the cab myself? I have never done anything like this myself, so here go the questions.
I can get a 100lb sandblaster from Harbor Freight for about $150 (shipped).
http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pre ... 95014.html
What media should I use, what grit, what nozzle for that grit, and how much would it take to do the cab you think, inside and out, top and bottom?
Soda? - no, too much trouble for propagating rust.
Glass bead? - http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-80- ... 30972.html
Al2O3 aluminum oxide? - http://www.harborfreight.com/44-lbs-bla ... 99945.html

Trying to analyze the cost on this. I can use a sander on the outside of the bed easily enough, no need for sand blasting there. I might use it up under the railing, though.
Worse, if the primer I used on my fenders is not compatible with urethane primer, then I'll have to take all that back off, and the sand blaster might be needed on those pieces. Test results from the painter should be back today.
Note that I will do the sandblasting outside, so I don't have any method for recovery.

Thanks for any help!

I haven't done much sandblasting but really wish I had a setup. My buddy does and went over to his house and used his blasting cabinet to do some engine parts. The media was this black synthetic stuff for heavy rust and some regular sand for the easier stuff.

The biggest problem with a sandblaster is the compressor. If you don't have a compressor that will keep up with the blasting, you'll spend a lot of time waiting on it to fill the tank and more time for it to cool down. My buddy finally broke down and bought a compressor that he said will last him the rest of his life. He paid about $1800 for this IR monster that retails for about $2600. It can blow 175psi all day long and not hurt it. Probably overkill, but that's Chuck.

the key to blasting is to have a good air compressor that will handle all the air, first.
I have found for the tools and equipment I have my money and time is best used to taking it to a qualified media blaster that does it for you safely and efficiently. jmho.
I've blasted plenty of heavy machinery and smaller more delicate things over my time, my best experience was to pay to have done.

I'll second the "pay to have it done" mentioned above. Small parts at home in a blast cabinet are one thing, but doing an entire cab or bed is best left to the pros, IMHO. I've seen many a body panel completely warped beyound use by an inexperienced sandblaster. I just had my entire cab, bed, hood, tailgate, inner/outer fenders blasted for $600. Worth every penny.

thx
Lee

Banjo. Just don't do it nekkid.

Might want to hit up Michelle, looks like she used a blaster similar to that when she restored her Ranger.

FYI i have a small unit for some small jobs. went to local supply house and told them i was blasting sheet metal and rust and they selected the media for the job. $10.50 for 50 lb bag

The syphon types are slower, cheaper,easier to keep running.
the pressurized ones are stronger, more expensive.. and sometimes you need to be a freaking scientist to get the valves set right.

I always set up a bunch of tarps to strain, and reuse my media.. but if its hot and humid (which it always seems to be when you blast) then the settings on the pressure can get finicky..clogged tip etc.

One huge secret is to use two smaller compressors if you don't have one big one, also if you can let your compressor just fill up a second attatched tank helps.

you will be shocked how well it works, and amazed how finicky it can all be. Nothing however works better for some parts..

One good strategy would be to get any open easy things with the wire wheel etc... then use blasting for the corners and low areas.

Also if you start getting real professional at it keep a screwdriver and a utility knife around, while you are waiting for air.. you can dig out all the D@MN caulking, you would never guess its there, but you will see

I dont like sand in a blaster. It clogs up and the silica in it is bad for the health. I use black beauty abrasives.
http://www.harscominerals.com/products/ ... px?id=1090
Cheap if you can find a industrial blasting supply. Last I bought was about $12 for 100#. I use the fine. Blasting sucks. If I had a way and place to haul stuff I would do it that way. I recycle my media. I used around 600 to 800 pounds on my wagons underside and the frame. You can find used ones cheap. I gave about $200 for mine its a 1 cubic foot/100#.
http://www.clemcoindustries.com/product ... m_id=00908

Banjo: It all depends on a number of things:

1) This only makes sense financially if it is something you intend to use repeatedly, on a number of projects. And if you are in a residential area, you will not make any friends using this outside in the driveway.....and you DO NOT want to be doing this inside your shop.

2) You will require a compressor big enough to keep up, and trust me, despite the fact that it says 6 CFM on their webpage, it will be at least double that. I had an 80gal 2 stage Ingersol Rand compressor, and blasting with it turned the paint on the heads from Silver to gold:):)

3) You don't want to be paying freight on blasting media, so if there is no where local to purchase @ a reasonable price/bag, that adds to the expense.

4) Blasting is dusty, messy work, and you will notice that all commercial blasters use an air fed Helmet. This is so that they will live long healthy lives....the helmet requires either a small oil-less compressor (usually teflon piston), or a huge filter that will remove any traces of oil, water etc. attached to the blast air supply. Yes, as a hobbyist, this would be overkill, but at the very least you should have a respirator on under your blast hood.

5) You see how the sandblaster removes multiple layers of paint in a heartbeat?? Imagine what it can do to any areas of exposed skin!! So please wear the required protective gear, coveralls, BOOTS, gloves, etc.

6) If you don't cover up any bare steel with an epoxy primer (or your choice of product) within 24 hours of blasting (less if you live in an area with high humidity), it will require sanding, or some sort of surface prep to remove any surface oxidation prior to spraying something over it......(and again, if you are in a residential area, you will definately need to move it indoors to prime, which means you now need some method of exhausting fumes/overspray out of the shop, complete with a filter that stops the solids from blowing downwind and covering all your neighbours vehicles with overspray.....(this isn't actually that hard, I have a home-made setup that works OK, and it wasn't that expensive to cobble together)

Things to consider, hopefully they will help you decide what direction you want to go

HTH
James

And please guys.
Pay attention to a proper ground.
Media of any kind going thru a rubber tube builds up a serious charge of static electricity.
I know the hoses are static conducting, but always run a ground clip to the tank just because.

Banjo, much like an earlier response you sent to my post, I had this dilemma not to long ago. Figured I'd save some cash and blast my frame myself. Not studying the subject enough I also did it inside my garage which was mistake #1. I have the tools, and the compressor to do it. But its honestly not worth the time and effort to me. For something big, by the time you buy the tools and bags it gets pretty pricey. Not to mention the little beach I created for myself in the garage. I might do some smaller pieces like leaf springs or a bumper. But I'd have a professional do the big stuff. Just my Good luck!

Never blasted at home but do some at the shop we use a plastic media so as not to wear the metal.

I purchased the larger blaster from harbor freight and have used it on my frame, cab and core support. I used the black diamond stuff from northern tool.

I did the frame in my garage, with plastic up. My 30 gallon compressor had a really hard time keeping up and I had to take a lot of breaks. I didn't have ventilation, (using a respirator.....keeping it safe) so the dust was high and I needed to let it settle anyways.

When I did my cab, I had to take to take it to my brothers work so I could use their large compressor setup. I worked great, but it took me about 4 hours to do and about 6 bags, at 8 bucks a piece. I did it outdoors and just dumped the media when I was done.

All in all, I am tossed on what I would do if I had to do it all over again. It is kinda nice to have the tools when I am done, but it is a lot of work.



.

[ Post made via iPad ]

did the inside of my uni bed with a little craftsman siphon unit, and my 33 gal compressor.

i did it outside, wearing a cheap little mask and holding a piece of plexiglass between me and the 100 mph sand, not sand but some black gritty stuff from the hardware store. i recycled it until it was like dust and useless.
took a long time, the media was $20 per bag and even with recycling took several bags.
compressor worked hard, and i had to drain the water from the tank or it would begin to clog the tube.
even with long sleeves , gloves, a hat, glasses, the mask, and the plexiglass there was grit in places i would rather not discuss

bottom line
its ok for smaller stuff/areas but i would not want to do an entire truck.

was a lot easier to take things like brake drums, hinges and that type stuff to my friends and use his cabinet.

John,
for no more than a person would do at home, by themselves, at one time a 20 lb unit is probably sufficient. HF sells one that size (I have one). It will also not require the amount of air that the 100 lb would and cost considerably less (you can get it really cheap if you wait for a sale).
Media can be had for a better price from Menards, Lowes, Home Depot too. I use the disposable coveralls, they are cheap so if you go through a few your not dropping a load of cash. You will want to tie the sleeves, ankles and tape the hood to the coveralls too. It's not gonna keep all the media out of your shorts but will help alot. I also added a 8" or so piece of pipe to make the nozzle/valve easier to hold. I am considering making a 90* handle for it too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-capa ... 40925.html

If you do decide to farm out the work, make sure the shop is reputable. I sent my frame out to have it sandblasted (without checking the place out first) and they did a quick 1/2 as@ job. They just hit the stuff that was easy to get to and I could have cleaned with a wire wheel. Basically I was out $200 dollars for nothing! The other thing to be careful about (when dealing with "professionals") is damage. The hacks that I dealt with dented my frame with a fork truck. Just do your homework and don't trust some hack with your slick.

Also ,I might add that if you blast around anything like the engine or rear end or what ever, sand can enter around shafts and breathers or anything that has an opening,and sand in an engine or bearing is not good , so seal every thing off as good as possible or remove the part to be blasted.

Wow, those are many factors I would have learned about the hard way if you all had not taken the time to explain them to me. I greatly appreciate the input, and it looks like regular sandblasting is not a very good way to go, at least at this time.
Here is an alternate sandblasting method suggested to me. This one uses a pressure washer to drive a sandblaster. It seems that using water reduces many of the hazards of using air driven material. Since I already have a pretty good pressure washer, I need buy only the wand and the sand. More so, it can use inexpensive plain playground sand.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200442147

Has anyone used this, and what is your opinion?

Sandblasting might have to be a viable option, because I found out that the primer I used already over much of the truck is incompatible with urethane primer and paint - it will all have to come off.