Slick 60's

OK SO I HAVE MY HANDS WRAPPED FIRMLY AROUND A 2006 CROWN VIC FORMER CAB WHICH WAS WRECKED IN THE REAR FOR A WHOPPING $300! But the only issue I see is the engine has not been removed. my question is this, does the engine have to be pulled out in order to drop the crossmember? And any specialty tools I need to remove it? I need to know ASAP... Thanks in advance

I've never pulled one myself, but the I do know the engine mounts bolt to the cross member, so I would assume you would need to pull the engine first.

Damn it man! Well he offered to sell the crossmember for $100 or the whole car for $350. So it looks like I may just purchase the entire car

You're probably better off getting the entire car, that way you can cut out the tubes the bolts go through with a hole saw. You can use the wheels (probably the steel wheels) or sell them. Then sell or scrap the car and get most of your $$$ back. Only negative is that cabs are usually beat to death...potholes, curbs, etc. Any idea how many miles?

If you get a piece of square tubing, or angle iron, or 4"x4" and set it across the engine bay, then tie the engine to the tubing, you should be able to unbolt the engine (and crossmember) and drop the crossmember out.
Not all that different than the way most shops do a trans swap on a FWD car....

James

Same advice, different inquiry.
Gerald's right; if you have room and a way to transport, you will definitely be ahead purchasing the whole setup. The car should scrap for what you pay for it if complete. If that's not practical for you, just support the car as high and secure as possible, put a support somewhere under the engine, and go to it!
A heavy duty impact and a good set of large metric sockets will be very helpful. Be sure to keep all hardware and the steering rack.Items such as brake proportioning valve and lines are also worth grabbing.
My son and I spent nearly three hours removing the crossmember, but we were not prepared, just happened on it and decided to get it. If the wheels are there, (mine were already gone), and not expensive, leaving them in place will help if you have to move it any distance as well as easing the effort to get it under the slick. Mine was at an LKQ on a busy half-price holiday, so no carts were available and hauling the crossmember and other needed parts to the front of the yard was definitely an adventure.
Paul

Fyi - the cap nuts on top of the a-arms unscrew easily. Put a breaker bar on the bottom & unscrew the long bolts down & out the bottom.

Thanks for the help guys. I have the room for the vehicle but no way of getting it home Its about an hour and half drive north in Southern Austin. I had called the guy back to make sure that he would still have it waiting for me on Tuesday but he shed some more light on the "complete vehicle". He mentioned that there may be only 2 wheels left and that a few of the suspension parts were already pulled, not to mention the rotors and brake hardware. I know i can piece it together but im not sure if it would be worth it in the end. I mean, $300 isnt bad but when it comes to having to pay for transport, purchasing the new pieces and the odds and ends it may be a little over my budget right now. I would hate to pick it up and have it sit for who knows how long. I guess I need a little motivation lol

I am familiar with the "setting for who knows how long" part. I still haven't identified the recipient for my CV. Mine may end up in an F-350, since I now have both a Fatman conversion and a quality solid short/long A-arm-configured frame and cab.
If I ever finish those, I still want to try a complete Jag conversion, although just a little different from the common, older setup.
I would not be in a rush to find one in your situation; the Police packages are readily available, including somewhat low-mileage wrecks.
As noted, LKQ's holiday half-price sales are a good source. Mine was an unmarked and obviously well cared-for ultra-low mileage
wreck for a total of $150.00, including anything I thought I might have a use for.
Paul

I ended up passing on this deal, the guy wanted it gone today and wouldn't wait till tomorrow. So I guess you can say it wasn't ment to be lol. I will be patient and hopefully something pops up locally or I get the dream beam setup...

I think I got the best deal on my CV front end. Someone else pulled it and delivered it to my place for $300 total. It has everything but the bushings for the rear pivot of the lower control arms. AND NOBODY SELLS BUSHINGS THAT FIT IT. Ford will if you buy the entire LCA. I had to custom fit some bushings that are supposedly for it but do not fit. No biggie.

I did not have to do any work to get the parts. That was the part I liked best.

TXSlick wrote:I think I got the best deal on my CV front end. Someone else pulled it and delivered it to my place for $300 total. It has everything but the bushings for the rear pivot of the lower control arms. AND NOBODY SELLS BUSHINGS THAT FIT IT. Ford will if you buy the entire LCA. I had to custom fit some bushings that are supposedly for it but do not fit. No biggie.

I did not have to do any work to get the parts. That was the part I liked best.

As i get older, I definitely realize the merit in that approach! I also see an advantage in doing it yourself, relating to becoming familiar with the varoius components and orientation, and the ability to hopefully get every piece that might be needed, or useful.
Paul

"Someone else pulled it and delivered it to my place for $300 total. It has everything but the bushings for the rear pivot of the lower control arms. AND NOBODY SELLS BUSHINGS THAT FIT IT. "

Rockauto has the rear LCA bushings/mounts...

Arrrrgh! Why can't I find that kind of a deal on a Crown Vic?! I would swap the motor(Plus the CPU), trans,, rear axle and front suspension all on to my F100. That whole combo is good power and handling all in one.

Govdeals-com get a retired/wrecked cop car...