Slick 60's

Normally, I would have done this in epoxy paint, but was in a hurry, and did it with rattle cans of Rustoleum. I am using rustoleum black for a finish anyway. However, that will be done with a spray gun. Couldn't find anything but rattle cans of it around here and didn't have time to drive fifty miles to buy some. On top of everything else, no one around hwere had epoxy primer in black except in a gallon can. Didn't want to spend 150$ just to prime this one piece.
All said and done, I spent a lot of time on this project, and could have done it differently. I will the next time. First time is allways a learning experience. Turned out pretty good considering. Pics will be in my album in about an hour.

Rich

Rustoleum #7777. My personal favorite.
Close to OEM on a Fairlane engine compartment, easy to fix scuff and scratches. Superior to Krylon Semiflat

Looks pretty darn good, one more piece of the puzzle done.

Only a bazillion more parts to go. Hopefully not as labor intensive as this project was. My grandson is here tonight and we are going to work on the bottom side of the cab tommorrow if it doesn't rain. Will try to get the rust off most of it and into primer . Need to get it painted so I can finish installing the power steering and brake lines for the disc brakes. Haven't decided if I'm going with the 79 master cylinder and booster or the 76 master cylinder without booster. I should have had the cowl replaced by now, but haven't. Canceled my trip to ElPaso, so I'm going to dive into his truck as much as possible. We've got a Broco II tank to install, and I have to fill the old filler hole, which should be no problem. Famous last words probably. I have to fill the butchered hole in the floor board where a PO gouged it out to install the four speed truck tranny with the 351w. Putting in a T5 with an adapter , and have to fix one hole before I cut another. I've cut the cab floor out of another body, and may just bolt it over the opening, like a four speed hump. If done right should look good and be functional, if I need to work on the tranny for some reason. That way, I won't have to repair the previous damage, just cut it out, and go with the new piece.

Rich

how are you working on the bottom of the cab? do you mean from the inside?

does anyone have a good way to tilt the cab on its side without ruining it?

edit: sorry to hijack =)

When they are down to bare shells, we just flip them over on the side or top. Take precautions with cardboard or old blankets whatever to not create more dents. If the rust is that bad and the cab or bed isn't stripped, it should be. No glass, instruments, wire harnesses etc.