Slick 60's

This is kind of long but it covers a lot of ground:

As you may know, I've gone back and forth on what to do with my '61 short uni. It has a fair amount of rust in the floors, front cab mounts and box but it is complete. I keep going back to putting a Crown Vic or LTD frame under it. Looking for opinions or concerns.

I have been told the '85-89 style track width is narrower, is it? If so, what years? I don't want to use the newer bolt in aluminum front cross member, it's simply too wide to fit properly and I'm not into deep offset wheels and short tires. It has to "look right" if you know what I mean. I'm thinking the '85 style frame, cut the frame off behind the rear axle mounts and replace with rectanglar tubing to the back of the bed, raise the bed floor (it all has to be cut out anyway) and hide it under a bed cover, put the spare tire under the back of the bed like a '55-57 Cameo did. Fuel tank at the front of the box so weight is better centered, fill thru the box side. Who has put the '85 style Crown Vic/LTD frame under their trucks and what were your sharp turning concerns? Was it too wide to work correctly?

Also thinking of narrowing the steel Crown Vic/LTD stub to the correct track width, the drag link isn't a problem (I have a way of dealing with needing a similarly narrownd drag link to fit the narrower track width after the frame is narrowed). How much would they need to be narrowed to fit properly with full turning radius sitting low? Have built stock cars with the side rails shortened and moved so that's do-able, too. Could narrow the front cross member as needed and still have the stock fit at the rear, rearends are easy to narrow so that's an option there if needed.

One thing I don't like about the Crown Vic swap is the looks of the frame behind the tires. It kicks out to meet the outer frame rails. If the kickout was closer to being at the front of the firewall it would look a lot better. Thoughts?

I repeat, I don't like deep offset wheels and want stock looking tires and wheels when viewed from the side. Probably some 28-30" tall rears and 26-27" tall fronts on 15x8 rears and 15x6 fronts. That's why the bolt on aluminum cross member on the newer Crown Vics is out.

I did the Mustang II deal under my '57 but want something different for this truck. Since it has a lot of box rust and the floorpans are junk, I kind of have a clean slate. I have floor pans, rockers, steps, cab mounts, etc to put in but I want it to look stock when done. I don't want to modify the step area as others have done. I can move side rails in on the frame if needed.

I considered the Dakots but just doesn't excite me for the money involved.

Has anyone looked at the '87 style T-Bird front cross member? It bolts in and comes out as a complete unit. Anyone? I have a T-Bird Turbo Coupe rearend that would match it and could graft them to the stock frame.

I want it all! Correct track width, "normal" looking wheels and tires with a nice sidewall and a low but drivable stance. I have built a few racecars (dirt late models and dirt modifieds) from piles of straight tubing. Own all the fab tools and equipment needed to do it. This is my "retirement" project so I'm gathering parts right now. Work starts for real after Christmas 2012, that's when I'm retired!

Please share your thoughts or what have I missed?

Thanks,
SPark

maybe you can find an abandon project uni with all your wants.

LM14 wrote:I have been told the '85-89 style track width is narrower, is it? If so, what years?

Narrower than the later Crown Vic? Or the factory uni? I believe the Crown Vic platform was essentially unchanged from 1979 through to 1991, after which the body style changed. So track width should be unchanged throughout those years at least, and from what I've seen it fits quite well under a uni. The later model aluminum crossmember swap is definitely wider than the 79-91.

LM14 wrote:Has anyone looked at the '87 style T-Bird front cross member? It bolts in and comes out as a complete unit. Anyone? I have a T-Bird Turbo Coupe rearend that would match it and could graft them to the stock frame.

Being a strut-type suspension I believe you'd need to fabricate some substantial shock towers, which are integrated into the unibody design of the Fox-bodied 'Birds. Not sure if that's ever been done. I suppose one could part of the 'Birds unibody for that but I think the track width might actually be too narrow.

That's one of the options I'm considering, Greg. At that time, it would also be easy to narrow the track width a few inches if that's needed to keep the turning radius and keep the tires off the fenders.

Thanks for the thoughts, keep them coming.

SPark

I don't have sheet metal or drivetrain in place on the SWB I was given with a 90's Lincoln stub mounted on it. Track width appears to match the stock rear quite well. I'm not sure what your concerns requiring narrowing might be. The modified Mcpherson (Fox-body) K-member could be made to work, but would require widening rather than narrowing IMO, even when using a Mark VII setup, (although close), and, as the Big M stated, would require fabrication of front shock/ strut mounts. This setup would be hard to do on a lowered truck without being obvious, since the upper mount would likely intrude into the inner fender It is a pretty serious job to adapt the Fox setup even on the early Falcons, Mustangs, etc. If you chose to utilize Fox-body, I would strongly suggest utilizing the Interchangeable SN-95 Mustang components.I had considered fabbing narrowed control arms for my Late-model (Panther) CV setup to regain stock appearance, but determined that a shorter rack and pinion would also probably be required. With the Uni, you may want to consider an IDidIt column for a 65/66 to ease the transition to a later stering box. You would need to modify the column supports and revise the floor panel hole location, but it sounds as if you plan to replace floors also. To me, the early CV, Town car, etc front stub is the easiest, inexpensive way to go, and still has good parts support, especially on alowered truck. You could either partially or fully box the remaining truck frame if you preferred. You also might want to consider utilizing the non-Uni behind-the -seat floor panel and frame brackets or crossmember to easily add an extra set of cab mounts to strengthen things up. Post pics as you progress!

Paul

That's my understanding as well, except I think the year range is 79-91. The Town Car changed bodystyles for 1991, but the Crown Vic and Grand Marquis didn't change to the more streamlined look until 1992.

unless you want big tires, and really low the mid 80 frame style works well. I am not sure what size tire I have on front.. but it looks right compared to the back ones (stock) you ain't nothin till you are sportin crown vic hubcaps

leaving the steps in would be nice, but its prolly stronger/easier to just mod the steps instead of the frame. if you have cruddy steps its a no brainer..

Just a thought, but have a look at the Jag xj6swap in the hints and tricks section. Right track width ,cheap and easy to do . I did my 62 and am very pleased with it. Good luck

I live in a rural area of Iowa. There are 2 Jags I know of in a 50 mile radius. No source for parts. None around here. Not a very good option in this area.

I'm thinking the Crown vic (79-91) front clip, maybe a 4 bar rear on coilovers (have some around from race cars still). It would be cheap to do and the fab work is my hobby.

Still planning. I have 8 months until I'm retired so I'm collecting parts until then.

SPark

With a Y Block?