Slick 60's

Ok folks I searched the forum here. Been dealing with wiring gremlins, maily turn signals and brake lights. I replaced the flasher .... no go.. I can " make em work" by flipping the arm. I jumped the wires from the brake light switch and got juice so I bought a new switch yesterday, but didnt do anything yet. Will I need to bleed the brakes after I put this switch on? also does the turn signal switch overidde the brake switch so if ones not working neither will? Thanks for the help

The stoplight switch gets constant hot from the fuse block. Dosen't matter if it is a hydraulic pressure switch (stock) or a mechanical switch you installed (better). When the switch is closed (you stepped on the brake pedal) 12v goes through the TS switch and powers the stoplights. Switched (key on) power goes through the TS flasher through the TS switch and depending on where the selector lever is pointed actuates and blinks those lights. 4 Way flasher gets constant hot that powers the flasher when the flasher switch is turned on and then through the TS and out to the four corners. Sometimes you can get really wrapped around the axle trying to sort out the colors and stripes on these old wiring systems. Don't do that! The TS switch and flasher switch sort all that out for you. You just need to have fused power, good switches, great grounds and some patience to sort this stuff out. IMHO!

The need for brake bleeding depends on how fast you are If you have the replacement within easy reach, you should have no need to bleed, assuming you currently have a solid brake pedal.
Are you saying that you have illuminated lamps, just no flash? The TS switch DOES overide the brake lamp on the particular side for which the switch is positioned; left turn, etc. So, with turn signal on, and key off, you shuold only see the opposite side illuminated when brake pedal is pushed. Key on, same situation, only the selected turn signal should flash, both front and rear. New flasher, no flash usually indicates an incomplete circuit. The incomplete circuit can be one or more poor ground, a bad bulb, bad contact, or wiring; the odds pretty follow the order listed. A heavy duty mechanical flasher will work with just one bulb, the OEM replacement will not. A solid state (electronic) flasher is a better solution, IMO, and pretty much a necessity if you upgrade to LEDs in the future.
Jumpering the brake light wires with no turn signal engaged should have resulted in both brake lamps being lit. If both are lit, and the intensity varies, check and recheck your grounds, or jumper them.
Paul