Slick 60's

Quetion... Has anyone painted or Bondo over Por15 before? I was thinking of hitting it with 80 grit then doing some body work?

It has been notorious for being tough to topcoat.. especially if you don't use their products.. things may have changed in the last few years.. I have always used their product as the sealant and top coat.

I have had other brands of paint come off when applied over it.

It tends to dry so slick and hard things don't adhere the best to it..

I would not do body work over it. The stated paint adhesion problems are only multiplied with filler. Personally, i would not put filler on anything but bare, freshly prepped metal.
Paul

what is the correct way to apply body filler as far as metal prep? I am getting ready to put on some filler. do you need to put it on bare metal hit with 120 or so paper or should the surface be primed and scuffed then add the filler?

Some guys swear by applying filler to clean, bare metal and others like to put it over an initial coat of epoxy. It's been done both ways for years.

It's a bitch to top coat but I really don't think it needs it. You need to use an agressive grit, 80 or 120 would work. I think Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator is a superior product.

When I put body filler on I want bare metal that I've hit with 36 grit. I want good tooth for the filler. I know they say you can put filler over primer but I don't feel comfortable doing it that way. Maybe I'm old fashioned since I've been doing this for 40 plus years.

grump wrote:When I put body filler on I want bare metal that I've hit with 36 grit. I want good tooth for the filler. I know they say you can put filler over primer but I don't feel comfortable doing it that way. Maybe I'm old fashioned since I've been doing this for 40 plus years.

X2, I've removed my share of filler, and I can tell you it fairly peels off most sub-strata, while it really grips well-roughened (and dry) bare metal. I prefer to pay the price and use Z-Chrome Rust Defender. When mixed properly, it adheres unbelievably yet can be easily sanded and recoated if needed, with no worries as to bleed-through or poor feathering. My personal feeling is, if it can't be smoothed with two coats of Z-Chrome, It's time to grab the straightening tools! After reading another post, and watching PowerBlockTV, al I can say is ; My results with the method they utilized were worse than over-applied filler!

Paul

BigMike wrote:It's a bitch to top coat but I really don't think it needs it. You need to use an agressive grit, 80 or 120 would work. I think Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator is a superior product.

I agree on the Eastwood, but I'm invariably doing things at the last minute, so I purchase POR15 at my paint supplier. The problem with not top-coating is the color degradation if exposed to sunlight.
Paul