Slick 60's

Can anyone tell me if the cab mount rubber disks on my 65 after 48 years of service can cause the cab to sag enough to cause binding and premature rag joint failure. I just replaced the rag joint again and noticed the binding. The cab mounts themselves are rust free. Years ago I did change the three speed column out for a 4 speed column when I installed an aod trans. Also the truck has been changed to power steering with the saganaugh box. thanks james

yes its possible and since they are fairly easy to change and your steel mounts are good its worth getting new ones.

the column can also be loosened and pulled up a bit if necessary.

Is there a specfic torque value for the cab mounts?

twotone, that is a good question although i'am not able to answer it. Maybe someone with a service manual can answer that for us. It does seem possible that you could pull one side down further than the other side and cause panel alignment problems. Man I need to find me a service manual.

To answere the questions involved we will have to discuss the original cab mount setup. Original mounts not only had a rubber donut above and below frame mounting, but had two metal parts also. These were round washers with an extension that went into the rubber that served two functions. First, these served as a means of centering the bushings and things in place. Second, the cab mounting bolt actually threaded into the lower one. The two pieces actually are threaded together and act as a stop. Keep this in mind when changing the mounts out, tends to spin with bolt. In Illinois there is little chance of removing these , because of rust. I've had some fun removing these in the past. Actually having to use my bandsaw and cut thru rubber and metal. The kits come with an easy to use bolt with washers, and spacer. You, tighten the bolt down untill it locks against the spacer. Torque value? I tighten to what I think works. If you want a torque value, just look up the standard value for the size bolt it is.

Rich

There is a torque spec in my '61 shop manual but it's not where I am now. It may not apply to a '65, anyway.

I have a 61 -65 motor manuels but I could not fine anything about the cab mounts. If someone could tell me where to look I will look it up and post it for all to see. It was not even in the 17 unit about topic in the book. Sorry I tried

I only see one problem with using a torque spec;
The durometer (hardness) of the rubber would have to be exactly the same as the factory used to have the correct amount of compression.
I need new ones for my 64 also - I had planned to tighten them using the body lines as a guide.
Since there could be some settling of the cab, mounts, etc. over nearly 50 years - might not be a bad idea to consider at least?
If it's all straight - it's probably pretty close................

maybe doing a test torque? If the old ones are still installed, take your torque wrench to it, increments of one foot pound up until you have the correct torque. It might work.... But then again, it could be rusted so bad it wont move.

It is actually a German spec... good-en-tight.

The new kits come with deformed lock nuts. You should tighten so that the rubber compresses evenly and the cab sits on your frame with no warping. (level the frame, then level the cab. front to back & side to side. Don't forget to make sure the cab is square to the frame.)

The rest of the body should be shimmed to match the cab lines, even the bed.

Gutentight! German for Virgin. Tighten the new bolts till the rubber bulges and count the threads so that the exposed threads are the same on both sides. Loosen the lower column mount plate before and tighten it after the project. Sawsall will help with he old bolts.

At one time there were secial washers with slots cut so the bolts could be loosened and spacers installed. I saw this in one of my Ford books, but couldn't say where. Problem with these trucks is frame flex, and after so many years who knows if anything is close to original spec or if the frame has bent.

Rich