Slick 60's

On my 66 f250 I put in a new 1) Alternator 2) Solenoid 3) Voltage regulator

Still no charge to the battery. I've gone through the wiring 3 times now and everything seems to be hooked up correctly. Theres also an amp-meter gauge hooked up in the dash. It'll read when there is a draw, but I'm getting no charge.

So my question is, before I go through all the wiring again and potentially re-wire everything, is there anything obvious that I'm missing that I haven't thought of?

Also where do most people hook up their amp meter? I've never hooked one up before and I don't really like where this one is spliced in...

Uh...I just found this thread by bmgc...

http://slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t ... ing+charge

The alternator light must be functional for the battery to charge.
Is the red light on the dash of a 66 the alternator light? And it will only work if that bulb is functional?

go with a 1 wire Gm Alt straight to the battery and call it a day.

Have you checked charging with a voltmeter? If you do not see charging voltage at battery, next step is to bypass regulator and check output.
Paul

If I was to do it all over again I wouldn't go with the 3g.

I think this is the way to go.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7 ... odel/f-150

I like 12si alternators. Easy to install and easy to wire and cheap. Be careful about overdoing the amperage on a single v-belt drive. These high output alternators need a double sheave or they may squeal. Both of mine do. IMHO

Try bypassing the ammeter. The factory ones are installed in line with the charging system. If there is a problem there, it could prevent the battery from charging. I replaced the ammeter with a simple volt meter to avoid the potential catastrophe if the ammeter wires were to short out.

Toyz wrote:Have you checked charging with a voltmeter? If you do not see charging voltage at battery, next step is to bypass regulator and check output.
Paul

Yea I checked it at the battery with a voltmeter and I'm not getting any charge from the alternator. And It said the battery was less than 12 volts.

bmcgc wrote:If I was to do it all over again I wouldn't go with the 3g.

I think this is the way to go.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7 ... odel/f-150

This looks so much simpler. If one were to put this in what happens to the other wires? CAn they just get taken out?

bruceandersson wrote:Try bypassing the ammeter. The factory ones are installed in line with the charging system. If there is a problem there, it could prevent the battery from charging. I replaced the ammeter with a simple volt meter to avoid the potential catastrophe if the ammeter wires were to short out.

I'm going to unhook the ammeter and see if that does anything. I'm probably going to put a voltmeter in instead for that same reason.

I see no reason to abandon your current system prior to diagnosis. Look online for info to bypass the system at the alternator. If that results in charging, test the regulator or have it tested. If it passes, checking out the associated wiring is a simple task.
I agree with Bruce; I much prefer voltmeters; early Bronco suppliers have one which fits in place of the factory gauge/light.

Paul

The 1 wire is internally regulated and the voltage regulator is not needed. There is a wiring diagram somewhere, I will look for it.

Just my opinion; but you have new components; you are still going to need to find and fix your problems; so why start over with different components and attendent additional modifications?
A 3g one wire works well; on a stock vehicle, so does the original system. It is possible; maybe even likely, that a new component may not solve the existing problem.
Paul

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it.

I'm not going to scrap everything I have now, its all brand new. I was gunna just keep the 1 wire idea in the back of my mind possibly for the future.

I'm going to take the ammeter out and see if that does anything. If not I'll just have to go through the wiring and make sure the wires are all in working order.

I'm confused about the alternator light on the dash though. Is it supposed to come on if the alternator is not working?

If you have an aftermarket ammeter, the lamp may be bypassed. Check for key-on voltage at the I terminal of the regulator. Like Bruce; I would eliminate the ammeter.
Before deciding on a one wire setup; you might read up on the pros and cons. I have no problem utilizing a one wire on slicks when I rewire one; although I certainly do more than simply " run a wire to the battery from the alternator". I could spend time in explanation, but solid, mostly unbiased info is readily available.

if im thinking correctly the amp meter is series in the BK/O WIRE.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/alte ... wiring.gif

62galxe wrote:if im thinking correctly the amp meter is series in the BK/O WIRE.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/alte ... wiring.gif

Correct, but since the OP indicated he had lamps as well as ammeter, I am thinking the ammeter is aftermarket, and may in some way be part of the problem. Bypassing the regulator and associated wiring will allow a check of the alternator itself, and then next step will be to bypass the ammeter while maintaining the "I" circuit at the regulator. I have seen some really quizzical wiring of ammeters; one of the reasons I prefer the simplicity of a voltmeter. With all new components, it may well be a wiring problem.
Your link also illustrates one potential problem with a typical "one-wire" setup, in that most lack fused protection!
Paul

What we don't know is if the system was charging properly.

Why did the OP go out and buy new parts?

If the new alt is a parts store reman, there is a chance it was DOA. I would take it back in and have them test it.

Thin Lizzy seems to have made it clear the system is NOT charging correctly. I would make an assumption based on the listed parts that there may have been a charging problem. There is always a chance any part may be "DOA" , that's what a testing procedure is for!
"I put a new "X" on and that fixed my problem". OR, "I properly diagnosed "X" and discovered a poor connection, ground, etc." The act of disconnecting and reconnecting parts often is just as effective as deciding the part itself is the root cause of the defect. Wonder how often a new part is damaged by outside problems? Wonder how many times the vendor would be willing to replace his part under those circumstances?

Paul

I used to P/T at AZ.

I got to the point of testing every alt I sold before it went OTD.

My question was why did the OP buy new parts in the first place?

Was the system charging properly for years, then one day it wasn't?

Was the old alternator tested and found to be defective? If so, then I would have the new alternator tested to make sure it is good before tearing into the wiring.

We need more information.

If the light on the dash does not turn on check the bulb. I know that on my truck it would not charge if the light bulb was removed. That was when I had a ford alternator. I would check to make sure there is power in the socket if the bulb is good, but the light does not turn on. If the charging system is working properly the light turns off when it is charging because both ends of the wire become positive and there is no difference in potential. Hope that isnt too confusing.

I have an ASE Master Certification, I first certified with NIASE on electrical systems in 1975. I'm a little rusty because I don't do automotive for a living anymore. You seem to feel that an old design 100 amp 10SI Delco "one-wire capable" alternator is the solution. Care to explain why you feel that way? OP states he's concerned as to the operation of the charge light; are you certain replacing an alternator will fix that? If the alternator proved bad, would you be willing as an AutoZone employee to stand behind the second one when it failed due to external malfunctions?
Here's a few facts I've gleaned thru the years, and I'm certainly open to hearing anyone's opinion on them!:

A 10SI alternator rated at 100 amps is going to generate a bunch of heat due to the small case. This often leads to premature failure. A 10SI "one wire" has limited "sensing abilities"; thus if you have a low battery, it will send nearly 100 amps to this low battery, again potentially leading to premature battery failure. A "one -wire" circuit on a Ford is not terrible, although by virtue of physical orientation of the load wires, it can easily be a source of excessive voltage drop, leading to weak lights, potentially weak spark, and other undesirables. A mis-wired or malfunctioning ammeter CAN be a hazard, both to the electrical system and occupants. Our slicks seldom have high load demands when compared to late model vehicles, so why would one WANT a 100 amp alternator, with the attendant potential damages?
William remarked that one may need double pulleys to support a high-output alternator. Do a little test; take that Summit Delco alternator, hook it up for single pulley operation as a "one-wire". I can take that same alternator and drive system, hook it up correctly with the three wires, charge the battery correctly, and have very little chance of "squelling" the drive belt. I will also have less load on the alternator or engine, my accessories are more apt to work correctly, and I will probably considerably lessen chances of burned wires or connectors. There's a reason the OEM's haven't adopted the "one-wire" system!
Do a little research, then come back and critique my statements!
The OP would no doubt like to fix his vehicle with as little additional expenditure as needed, I'm sure. I see no reason to replace parts, or remove for testing, until the basics are established.
As stated; I am open to any comments or corrections to what I have noted.
Paul