lost

[jordanhltn]

i'm new here, so ill start out saying hi to everyone. HI.
i recently came across a 63 f250 4x4 in Illinois, got excited and had to get it so here i am. now i have my dream truck but with a few issues. first one is she needs more runway than a 747 to stop, so i replaced and upgraded the drums i'm playing with the idea of disk conversion tho.. just playing for now. but she still stops like a cruise ship. she has a divorced transfer case with a dana 44 in front and a 60 in the rear so speed is an issue on the interstate but that's what the first lane is all about, i'm not in much of a hurry anyways.. but i'm still looking to re-gear her back to a less farm life type gearing.

she runs great, or ran great until my wife came out to visit for a weekend and i decided to take her on a drive. while driving at about 55 in 4th she started to lurch like a car out of gas, so i figured fuel starved and backed off the gas a bit to 45. but in letting off she died completely and we were on the side of the road i replaced the old grime filled fuel filter and then let it relax a bit then drove back home. i checked the fuel pump and all the lines, have good gas and checked the jets weren't clogged. after a bit of driving at 30 shes getting really hot, but i cant seem to find any coolant issues. and now she gave up the ghost and will only idle here is where i'm lost... she idles strong but when i give her gas she dies. iv been looking into it for a week now and am completely lost and think i need fresh eyes, I've been thinking its a bad accelerator pump but now its time to ask for help.

[Toyz]

If you haven't checked the carb inlet screen , that might be a good starting point.
BTW, welcome from the third coast!
Paul

[jordanhltn]

thanks. ill check it out now

[Shadow]

Hello From Kansas, My 64' F-250 Had A Lot Of The Same Issues. Unfortunately The 8-Lug Straight Axle Trucks Didn't Have All The Disc-Brake Options As The 5-Lug Trucks. I Replaced The Drums, Rubber & Steel Lines And Opted For Power-Brakes On Mine Using A Dual Pot Master-Cylinder Booster Combo. The Braking Is Greatly Improved. That Being Said I Think Bill W. Adapted Disc Brakes On His Truck But Again I Believe The Wheel Options Are Limited. As For Your Carburetor The Accelerator Pump-Diaphragm Is Probably A Good Place To Start. Good Luck!...........

[64 f100]

You may have a series of problems. I would start at the carb and work my way all the way to the tank. Carb will have two major problem areas . accelerator pump and power valve under the cap on the bottom of carb. Many of the fuels we buy today eat the rubber from years ago causing problems. Just one backfire, and you have most likely blown the power valve, however you will also have a flooding condition if this is so. Idle will be rough. What you are describing sounds more like fuel starvation. First I would check to see how much trash is in the fuel bowl, and check both power valve and accelerator pump. Second I would check both rubber fuel lines and filters . there is another rubber fuel line un the cab, that connects the frame line and the fuel tank line together. Mostly, I would tank the tank out and check condition of the inside of the tank. This means draining all the fuel out of the tank. Rust is a major factor in fuel problems when it comes to the tanks. Carefully remove the fuel tank sending unit from the tank. This allows you to place a light at the fill hole and look into the sender hole and vice versa for inspection. Before I replace the tank, I clean it thoroughly with high pressure wash. Car wash if nothing else is available. I would inspect the tank again for after cleaning. What you can look for are rusted through places on the fuel intake line, and the bottom of the tank. Rocks or ball bearings inside the tank may help break loose any trash so you can do a better job of cleaning the tank. Main issue of fuel delivery are holes in the gas line intake. Badly rusted and pitted intake pipe will allow air intake and loss of fuel to carb. Some have gone to the trouble of replacing the intake tube, which is permanently installed in the tank. this is a fairly hard undertaking but not so much for a tool/welder savy person. Personally, I don't like repairing a tank with that much rust. These tanks are common to any number of Ford trucks. If yours has major rust, I would just find a good one and replace it. I would advise blowing out the metal lines to make sure these are running free and not clogged up with internal rust. I would install two fuel filters of good size, where you have rubber fuel lines.

Rich

[MadMaxetc]

On the brakes issue.

Rubber hoses absorb water. Both from the inside and outside. They will swell and REALLY restrict the flow as well as pressure. I couldn't get my 63 to stop when I got it. It had been in a barn for 10 years. I rebuilt the brakes and did everything new. All 4 wheels...except for the hoses. It still didn't stop. I then replaced the hoses. they didn't look bad on the outside, but the inside was a different story. The front DS had only a pinhole for fluid. The right side was a little better, but not much. and the back was not to bad and I could tell that it was a newer hose (some time in the 70s ).

After that it stopped good. Not like a new car and you still had to watch out, but I could drive it and not have to worry about slamming into the back of someone.

Drums are OK and they can work.

[unibody madness]

Welcome to the madness,
All of the above makes sense.
I would make sure to replace the rubber lines and blow out or replace the steel lines in the brake system as well, and bleed them with fresh brake fluid.
A two chamber mc is only about 36 dollars at napa auto, and vacum assist will greatly improve brake pedal.

Pictures would be nice as well as location, maybe someone in the group lives nearby.
John

[jordanhltn]

good news on the truck. took apart the carburetor and cleaned the inlet screen which was almost full of rust. Drained the tank then blew out all the lines from the carb back to the tank. took the tank out tossed some gravel in and pressure washed around a bit. low psi just to clean out the rust. then put her back together and BAM runs like a champ. thanks for the advice on the carb inlet screen. would have taken a good long while for be to get on the right track without it.

[ToughOldFord]

Sounds like you still have a brake issue. Drum brakes, when working properly, stop nearly, if not just as, good as disc brakes. Disc brakes offer better braking in wet and excessive heat exposure. (IE going down a grade with a load and the driver not knowing how to use the transmission.) Drum brakes just require better driving skills.

As mentioned above, it's a good idea to upgrade to power brakes, stopping a full size truck with manual drum or disc is quite a bit of work for the leg.

[F100forever]

I agree, if you take your time to rebuild the brakes, new wheel cylinders (not expensive) good shoes, drums turned round, replaced if warn, and new rubber hoses and a dual master cylinder, that truck should stop well. (er well enough that is.) its still a heavy 4x4, so stopping distance is always more than a newer car.

What engine is it, a 292 y-block? If so, check the valve clearance, as many of those engines are mechanical lifters and the valves get tight when the sink into the head. Consider adding a small bid of additive on longer drives to help cushion the intake valves.

[jordanhltn]

Yep a 292 y-block. and i'm in the great lakes area by the naval training center. its been a while since I've really put some miles in but i'm going to be headed back home to Washington state for another few years. so now the project is some re-gearing so i can go above 55, that and i'm planning the trip out to head through Yellowstone and of course this means the Tetons... so any suggestions on a way to boost braking on those roads would be great, still looking for some disc conversion but cant really find anything 8 lug

[tomsrod]

If you change out the back gears, you will have to also change the front gears, they are set up to run the same. There are options out there for putting discs onto the closed knuckles, but they are expensive. I can't remember the company, you could do a search on this site. Another option is to install a front axle from a 1977 or so F250 4x4 that will already have the disc brake setup.

As others have said, you could go to power drums. Thats what I did on my 66 F250 4x4. You have to use a dual bowl master cylinder from a 67 F250 and get the MC brackets from that year, 4x4 and 4x2 are the same. Again do a search here on the power drum brake upgrade. I've been happy with my upgrade and it does stop better.

Freeway speeds for this setup are about 55 and at that speed it seems like its really maxed out. I rarely drive very far on the highway, but when i do, it's always in the slow lane where even the geezers in Buicks honk at me. Sounds like you have a long trip planned. Keep us updated. Any photos?