Slick 60's

I recently bought a 66 custom cab. IT has been fitted with a 73-76 model power steering column. Does anyone know the wire color codes for the 70's column? are they the same as the 66?

also I can not get the truck to start. I cant get any power to the dash at all. there are two red wires that have been cut?? where do they attach? and the neutral safety switch on the 70's column has four wires. the 66 only had two with spade connectors. what do I do?
I am new here. I appreciate any insight.

The easy thing to do is to put a 66 switch into the later column, then your wires are correct. Ford used somewhat consistent color coding through the years, but no guarantee. I bought a laminated wiring diagram years ago to help trouble shoot problems. This was very useful. I'd get the diagram and a decent voltmeter and start digging.

An internet search will reveal the wire colors, and a test light will confirm function easily. Such items as the hazard switch are best left per the later arrangement to simplify troubleshooting IMO.
Paul

The neutral safety switch should also include the back-up lamp switch, handy if you wanted to add back-up lamps via later model lens and housings. Red wire, if lighter gauge, probably originally fed the brake lamp switch from the flasher. The red with a stripe is from the original brake switch to the column. If you don't have a factory amp meter, a heavy black wire is likely your input power to switch from relay "BAT" terminal, and should be spliced to a yellow wire under the dash. That same splice will also have a wire feeding the light switch and another feeding the fuse block. The yellow wire attaches to the ignition switch via the center lug on switch.
To start checking, the heavy black wire should be the only heavy gauge wire in the inboard firewall connector on the engine side. It should be continually "hot", key on or off. Check to see that it in fact connected to the relay; then check at that firewall connector to verify current at that point. Then move to the inside under dash and probe the same black wire for power, then on to the switch lug. Repairing any problems in that circuit should at least give you power to the switch. At that point the fun starts if it still shows no sign of turning the engine, or other functions. We'll save the column wiring for later; it's really simple, but there are a few differences to be noted. Without knowing what has been modified to accommodate the later column; I would NOT attempt to install an original early turn signal switch, just in case it may be wired for the later switch.
Lots of caveats and disclaimers here! The main ones which come to mind is if it did originally have an ammeter; what has been done as far as brake switch, and verifying the year and application of the column.
That should keep you busy for a while!
Paul
Paul

So there is no definite years that the colors are all the same? I am really stumped as I got no power at all coming past the firewall. Any ideas to get some juice in there so I can confirm my lights are wired properly? This is turning out to be a nightmare.

paul,
I have two yellow wires. one goes into the connector on the switch. and the other is a female connector going no where. I swapped the old 66 neutral safety switch into the new column. wired it up/. that should fix that right? also the two red wires I think go to the brake switch in the engine bay. we have power going from battery to the solenoid, but we cant get anything inside the dash. everything looks wired up except for the column and the random yellow wire. there is also a bluish green wire with a strip floating around near the ign switch as well. we are totally stumped on this one. also I have two headlight connectors on the driver side and no turn connector????

yoson wrote:paul,
.... also I have two headlight connectors on the driver side and no turn connector????

Under the dash? One is for turn signal flasher, other for hazard flasher.

Have you located the heavy wire from the starter relay to the firewall? I would suspect the second three wire connector on the driver's side was originally for a relay of some sort such as the horn. If you can identify the colors going to each connector, I should be able to identify them. That yellow wire, if heavier gauge; should be spliced into the black main power wire coming from the firewall connector.
Paul

the firewall plugs can become corroded and its possible that someone had attempted to take them apart and broke the pin off.
seen this many times.