Slick 60's

So I had my radiator tested and its blocked up. I had a feeling it was done for before I even brought it in but for $25 to have it checked, it was worth it.

I found this Champion radiator that says it will work, but after reading a bunch of radiator threads in here, I'm concerned about the factory mounting brackets. My radiator has what look to be factory brackets welded to the radiator. So my concern is that this new radiator will not be wide enough to use the facotry holes on the core support.

Ideas/opinions?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-1963- ... Zz&vxp=mtr

the factory brackets are soldered, not welded and the radiator is copper
if you had another copper radiator you could remove your brackets and resolder them to the new radiator

i wont buy chinese radiators or aluminum because i do not have aluminum welding equipment
copper i can solder in my yard if need be

I have used 2 of the champion alum. radiators in 64's but they were for a 302 setup....inlet and outlet diffrent. but were very easy to fab. a bracket or redrill a hole. If you find a copper one NEW that will fit it will cost at least twice what that one does.

Danny

Sounds like they stand behind it well. My Champion dealer of choice is Sue Wilkerson of Big Dog Performance. She is knowledgeable as to our truck applications, and very competitive in price.
Paul

If your tubes are clogged any good radiator shop can remove (unsolder) the top and bottom tank and rod the cooling tubes out. This was standard practice before everything became throw it away and buy a new one. The radiator in mine is the one it left the factory with. I had this procedure done when I restored my truck

^^^^^^ that's what I've done to mine also unless they're leaking.
I've had mixed results with Aluminium radiators. Haven't put one in the slick, but I did in the mustang. It did cool better without a doubt but I didnt even get 12months before it started leaking in several places. I ran a sacraficial cap, but even that didn't stop the corrosion.