Slick 60's

could someone post pictures of the linkage of what they did with the linkage to the master cylinder to the peddle of the hydraulic clutch, I done a M5R2 install in my 66 crew

I'm going out to work on the slick in a couple of hours and will take a pic of the factory setup for you. It's RHD but it makes no difference to the hydraulic setup.
I got the master and slave from macs, the pushrod I already had. For whatever reason the pushrods on this side of the pond were adjustable from ford whereas I believe the ones on your side were not?

Thanks the master cylinder I am trying to make work is off the 89 the transmission came out of the linkage original in the 66 is horizontal and needs to be made vertical.

Mine is missing the spring that keeps the clutch pedal up toward the dash, but you can see how the pushrod attaches.


I think it was Greg D who cut off the zbar bracket and said the mounting hole for the hydraulic pushrod was still there?
Have a look here maybe viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34078&p=286159&hili ... ch#p286159


1 1/8" fruitjar master cylinder


Slave cylinder, you probably don't need any of this, but I'm adding as a reference for whoever else may search for a hydraulic setup. its a fridge slave cylinder. Bracket looks custom though. Not 100% sure

That's how I set mine up as well, but found I had to re drill the hole for the rod to line up, I did not use a fruit jar master, I used the wider master available. I welded up some 5/16ths rod into a triangle,and bolted it to the frame where the shock towers used to be.

See if this thread helps

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=30263

I'm now converting to a hydraulic throwout bearing setup because my stock stuff started leaking and I'm having actuation issues, probably due to geometry issues with all of the mix-matched parts. Two birds, one stone... hopefully.

If you can weld, it is easy to make an adapter to use more readily available aftermarket master cylinders.

my stock stuff started leaking

Funny you should mention that...... the master and slave on mine are both new <100miles since installation, but the slave started leaking around the hose. Luckily I was able to replace the seal rather than the whole unit. Pretty poor I thought for a new part, but who knows how long it was sitting in their shelf.

i realize this is not what you asked but, ive used several of American Powertrain's kits and they were easy to install and have a great feel when done.

i've only used the hydraulic throw-out bearings though.

first thank all that replied. I got it hooked up yesterday using some original parts and some off the 89.have to adjust the linkage. it does not seem to be working right. it is a hydraulic throw out bearing.

My stock cylinders don't have any seals for the hose connection. It is simply a flare arrangement, like brakes. Regardless, my leaks are not at the hose connections. The slave is leaking by the piston - it was a rebuilt unit. I can't really tell where the master is leaking but it is always wet on the bottom - it was NOS The master I found is an actual clutch master cylinder, not a brake cylinder made to work. Given how hard it is to find these, the aftermarket stuff just makes more sense, even if it still may not be readily available at the local parts store.

The hydraulic bearing I'm installing is a Tilton Engineering part. They suggested a 7/8" bore master along with a 5:1 to 7:1 pedal ratio. Pedal travel with 5:1 will be about 4 1/2", which makes it about 6 5/16" with 7:1. Adjustment is totally different than the stock setup so do not use the stock procedure to set this up. If this adjustment is incorrect, the bearing will either not move enough, or could move too much and potentially cause clutch, bearing, or transmission damage.
I have no idea if that is something that can be applied to all or only Tilton's, but those are things you can consider if your setup is not working.
If you know who manufactured the bearing, ask them which size master cylinder to use or if it is an oem part, simply use a matching oem master cylinder or get an aftermarket cylinder with similar specs.

I did use the the master cylinder that was with the transmission never even unhooked it. Only thing I used off the 66 was the clutch peddle and the rod to cross to right hand side. The drop linkage is the one from the 89.So figured it would work.

What is the nature of your problem?

The adjustment outlined in the instructions for the Tilton setup is to adjust the pedal until the clutch just releases then add an additional 1/4" of travel. They suggest using an adjustable stop, which would be between the firewall and pedal so you would push on the pedal until the clutch releases then push an additional 1/4" and adjust the stop. Since our trucks are not set up like that, you should be able to work backwards and carefully adjust the linkage until the clutch just releases, then adjust it for an additional 1/4" of pedal height.

just to the 66 linkage to the 89 master cylinder I have it working now. Now need to get it to the drive line place to adjust the drive line. Have to go to work for 2 weeks will get It done when I get back.

I like the early setups originally for larger trucks, and these are easy t adapt and work well. Beat the hell out of the bell crank setup when done right. These are easily made adjustable even if you have to make your own clutch push rod. I have two New setups waiting in the wings for when I need these. Only lacking the hose connection , which I see is new in the pictures. Where did you get the hose and what was it you asked for when you got it?
Thanks,
Rich

Rich,
I just bought two pre-made 10" by 1/4" brake hard line and a short rubber brake hose between them, patched together at the local auto zone. Of course you need the step up bushing for the master. you can get away with two 8" hard lines but I liked the extra length to work with

I got the hydraulic bearing installed over the weekend. That is amazing. Super light pedal and extremely smooth actuation. I'll update my hydraulic clutch thread in a few days.
I haven't heard any testimonials from anyone who uses one on a daily driver, so hopefully it lasts.

That's great Charlie, I would love to see pics, since I haven't a clue.
I can only imagine how it works having helped my son work on his 2000 ranger.
Would it work with Mummerts throw out bearing set up?
I have already replaced a slave on my set up, but was assuming it was from having sat for three years. It would be nice to have options.
John

Since it replaces the throwout bearing, it would not work with Mummerts throwout bearing. It should be very similar in function to a 2000 ranger.

I can think of three serious demographics for it, race cars with real stiff clutches, people with joint pain or parts that just don't move like they use to, who aren't quite ready to give up shifting gears and people who for whatever reason cannot make stock linkage work or need more room. Anything else and, I'd say it's not worth the price but if you can afford it, do it. Parts should be easier to find for this, too.

The Ford hydraulic setup was a big improvement over the stock mechanical setup and this is probably a similar improvement over the Ford hydraulic setup.