Slick 60's

OK - I'll come clean. This problem is not on my slick, but rather on my Jeep. But I wanted to run this by some of you guys before I proceed. Here's the deal...

The water pump was going out, so I replaced it - no biggy. But in order to get the new one in (and the old one out), I had to remove the metal housing that goes over the thermostat. This is a straight 6 - the housing mounts right to the head on the front of the motor.

Everything went fine until I was re-attaching the housing. I was tightening her up, and snap - the bolt broke. I backed the other bolt out and removed the housing. The snapped bolt was sticking out of the head by about a quarter of an inch.

There is not enough space between the front of the head and the radiator to get a drill in there to go the easy-out route. And I reeeeeeeealy don't want to remove the radiator. I ran the scenario by a guy here at work, and he recommeneded threading a nut onto the snapped bolt, tack welding the bolt to the nut, and backing her out. Sounds like a great solution. Can anyone here think of a reason that I should NOT do this? Or anyone want to offer up an alternative solution? I'm all ears...

You could do that, but can you get some Vise Grips on it? Not some chinese imitation, they ain't good for this. Be easier than trying to put theards on it. Dies are about 1/4 inch thick, so you'd only get it started, not enough threads to get a nut on.

Might could just weld a nut to the stub, without trying to thread it..??

I guess I was typing while Gary was posting..lol

JIM
I ALWAYS WELD A WASHER TO THE BOLT FIRST THEN I WELD A NUT TO THE WASHER. THAT GIVES YOU MORE WELD AERA. THE HEAT FROM THE WELDING WILL LOOSEN THE BOLT. HASENT FAILED ME YET. MIG WELD IS THE EASIEST.

LONNIE

I agree with Fordmancrackel. Don't let the bolt cool after welding, but don't turn the bolt if it's molten hot either. I'd give it about 30 seconds after welding and slowly turn it. It should free right up. Oh, and don't use any penetrating fluids, they catch fire and you shouldn't need it with the weld/heat method.

The Method of FORDMANCRACKEL/Comet sounds like a winner to me

dremel a groove into the end of the snapped off bolt. Then use a flathead screw driver to remove it.
Or vice grip it.

I also lightly, but not too lightly, tap the end of the broke off stud, it kinda "loosens" the threads a little.