Slick 60's

Just finished a full brake system overhaul with dual master cylinder conversion (drum/drum) and decided to post a parts list:

• Master cylinder: Napa# M1902
• Push rod: Just re-use your original. Perfect fit.
• Front distribution block: Re-use the original and cap off the fourth port (bottom left)
• Master cylinder bench bleed kit: Dorman# 13911
• Master cylinder flare nuts: Got these at Napa. Don't remember part numbers: 3/16x1/2-20 and 3/16x9/16-18
• Tee for pressure switch: Weatherhead# 652x3 (1/8 pipe thread on top and 3/16 inverted flare one each side)
• Brake tube: 3/16" NiCopp (30 feet) Amazon
• Flare nuts: Lots of 3/16" inverted (thread is 3/8-24) Dorman# 785-290D
• Front brake hoses: Napa# UP36531
• Rear brake hose: Napa# UP36606
• Rear distribution block: It's molded to the rear hose.
• Wheel cylinders: One each of Dorman# WCA17507, WCA17508, WCA41718, WCA41719

I ran all new brake lines, wheel cylinders, hoses, drums turned, new shoes, fixed grooved backing plate pads, etc. The full monty. So, you may not need all of this if you're just simply doing a dual conversion and not the rest.

Here's a shot of how I plumbed it up in the engine bay:



And, I think taking the time to weld up the backing plate pad grooves and grind them down flat was worth it:



The shoes move very easily without catching now.

The re-conditioned brakes:









The labor involved in this project was considerable. But, I should have done this months ago. It stops like a dream now. I didn't know 4 wheel drums could be this responsive. Hopefully someone doing this will find this shopping list helpful so there's no guesswork when starting. I think using the '67 master cylinder is key since it avoids possibly getting a disc/drum MC by mistake and not having the correct residual pressure valves baked in.

Thanks for posting the parts list.

looks Good,I keep putting off changing mine,although i've already got a cylinder, if the original starts leaking .ill have to get busy

Lowell wrote:looks Good,I keep putting off changing mine,although i've already got a cylinder, if the original starts leaking .ill have to get busy

That’s what prompted mine. Pedal got soft and when I checked it I barely had any fluid. . It was full on the last oil change so it went somewhere. Scary.

A lot of master cylinder these days, that you think has a residual valve, do not. So buyer beware. It appears your MC has different size reservoirs, whereas a '67, or any of the drum/drum trucks, did not from Ford. When I see MCs like this, I'm thinking there are not residual valves in them.

PetesPonies wrote:A lot of master cylinder these days, that you think has a residual valve, do not. So buyer beware. It appears your MC has different size reservoirs, whereas a '67, or any of the drum/drum trucks, did not from Ford. When I see MCs like this, I'm thinking there are not residual valves in them.

I guess it can't hurt to put some 10# RP valves in-line. I already have couplers plumbed in.

Looks like new. Working the heck out of the F-250 drums. Like anything else they do work well when kept up.