Slick 60's

Just thought I'd share some pictures of the rear end in my 64. It has a B5 axle code door tag (4:10). Any comments, knowledge welcome. The pictures are in my personal gallery. Jim

And the address to your album would be? I would sure like to see the pictures but can't find them. A link is always helpful. Hawkrod

Hakrod click on his profile link and you get two pics of it

Jim,
I see why I was confused now. Your rear is a Dana, but it is NOT a full floater.

A full floating rear, albeit Dana, Rockwell, Eaton, or what ever, allows for wheels [+ drums, wheel bearings et al] to remain on axle housing while the floating axle &/or differential parts/sections are removed for repair or replacement.

There is a ring of nuts & cone washers that hold the axles in to the hub, and the axle is removable while the hub remains as is on the housing, along with inner & outer bearings & rear wheel grease seal. Two large nuts and a Tab Lock washer retain hub assy on axle housing.

On your rear it's like a D40, D-50, 8.8 etc design & NOT FULL FLOATING. Your Axles hold your wheels & bearings. All must be moved, or removed to, work on the gearing in the Differential. There are no rear wheel hubs like all floating axle rear ends have. Also you have rear drums like a 9" FoMoCo has.
This may be Info Overload for some folks, but there are several styles of rear drive axle designs. A few are basic, common, styles of rear axle assy's we have today. I will only mention the top, or most popular three. First, DANA is a Brand, or a Manufacturer of gears & gear assemblies. Not a type of design. They are now known as Dana Spicer Corp.

1, Hailbrand or "banjo" type in Fords Model "T" thru 1948. Where Axle housing splits apart to work on gears etc. It's a "Torque Tube style with a drive shaft encased in a tube fastened to back of transmissions. It was a Mother Beast to work on. "U-Joint was actually a part of the transmission, unlike with open drive shaft designs. The Halibrand types were made by Halibrand, but also by Columbia (a Bicycle Company in the 19th century and so forth) and others over time.

2, Hotchkiss type where center section is front loading. 49-64 FoMoCo big cars, 48-79 FoMoCo trux, 55-64 Chevy cars as well as other Auto brands. There are also front & front+rear (or both) loading Danas. MoPaR ran an 8.75" MoPar-Dana-Hotchkiss built as a hotchkiss type, but featured a rear cover similar to a Salisbury type. These were built by Dana for MoPaR . They were very popular in days of Ramchargers Drag team from MoPaR's Detroit Factory. MoPaR's 426 Hemis & MAX wedge, as well as 413s, LA Sb's like 340 & 360 Muscle cars generally were ordered with the dual access Dana 8.75's. They're strong & complimented MoPaR's 727 Torque Flite A/Ts of those days.


3, Salisbury type, which is what a rear loading Dana such as yours is. Ford used Salisbury type in their early Falcons,from 1960 & in F Series such as yours, and all 4X4's from 1961. They went to salisbury Danas in their trucks in 1980. By 1981 Mostly all trucks came with Dana salisburys.

<Disclaimer> Of course, this is not absolute as to who ran what when. There are always variables & oddities. Also this is not a complete text or Encyclopedia of ALL Rear Axle & Rear Ends of all known Motor Vehicles for ever. . . . But for a general overview I believe I have gotten it rather close to, if not in fact spot on for what we covered.


CIAO Y'all

FBp

What have we got that FTE doesn't?

FORDBOYPete

FORDBOYpete wrote:Jim,
I see why I was confused now. Your rear is a Dana, but it is NOT a full floater.

A full floating rear, albeit Dana, Rockwell, Eaton, or what ever, allows for wheels [+ drums, wheel bearings et al] to remain on axle housing while the floating axle &/or differential parts/sections are removed for repair or replacement.

There is a ring of nuts & cone washers that hold the axles in to the hub, and the axle is removable while the hub remains as is on the housing, along with inner & outer bearings & rear wheel grease seal. Two large nuts and a Tab Lock washer retain hub assy on axle housing.

On your rear it's like a D40, D-50, 8.8 etc design & NOT FULL FLOATING. Your Axles hold your wheels & bearings. All must be moved, or removed to, work on the gearing in the Differential. There are no rear wheel hubs like all floating axle rear ends have. Also you have rear drums like a 9" FoMoCo has.
This may be Info Overload for some folks, but there are several styles of rear drive axle designs. A few are basic, common, styles of rear axle assy's we have today. I will only mention the top, or most popular three. First, DANA is a Brand, or a Manufacturer of gears & gear assemblies. Not a type of design. They are now known as Dana Spicer Corp.

1, Hailbrand or "banjo" type in Fords Model "T" thru 1948. Where Axle housing splits apart to work on gears etc. It's a "Torque Tube style with a drive shaft encased in a tube fastened to back of transmissions. It was a Mother Beast to work on. "U-Joint was actually a part of the transmission, unlike with open drive shaft designs. The Halibrand types were made by Halibrand, but also by Columbia (a Bicycle Company in the 19th century and so forth) and others over time.

2, Hotchkiss type where center section is front loading. 49-64 FoMoCo big cars, 48-79 FoMoCo trux, 55-64 Chevy cars as well as other Auto brands. There are also front & front+rear (or both) loading Danas. MoPaR ran an 8.75" MoPar-Dana-Hotchkiss built as a hotchkiss type, but featured a rear cover similar to a Salisbury type. These were built by Dana for MoPaR . They were very popular in days of Ramchargers Drag team from MoPaR's Detroit Factory. MoPaR's 426 Hemis & MAX wedge, as well as 413s, LA Sb's like 340 & 360 Muscle cars generally were ordered with the dual access Dana 8.75's. They're strong & complimented MoPaR's 727 Torque Flite A/Ts of those days.


3, Salisbury type, which is what a rear loading Dana such as yours is. Ford used Salisbury type in their early Falcons,from 1960 & in F Series such as yours, and all 4X4's from 1961. They went to salisbury Danas in their trucks in 1980. By 1981 Mostly all trucks came with Dana salisburys.

<Disclaimer> Of course, this is not absolute as to who ran what when. There are always variables & oddities. Also this is not a complete text or Encyclopedia of ALL Rear Axle & Rear Ends of all known Motor Vehicles for ever. . . . But for a general overview I believe I have gotten it rather close to, if not in fact spot on for what we covered.


CIAO Y'all

FBp

Thanks for the info. So. I guess I would just like someone to tell me what I've got. Is it a semi-float powr-lok? Good for street/drag racing?

Jim

Johnny Canuck wrote:

What have we got that FTE doesn't?

FORDBOYPete

Not sure what you're asking. I like to get as much info as possible, to get it right. There's a lot of knowledgeable and experienced people out there on many different sites.

Hawkrod wrote:And the address to your album would be? I would sure like to see the pictures but can't find them. A link is always helpful. Hawkrod

If you click on my user name from the posting page it'll bring up my personal gallery. From there you can choose all of the pictures. If you wouldn't mind after looking at the pictures, would you tell me what you know about the rear end? Is it a semi-float and a powr-lok? Good for street/drag racing?

Thanks, Jim

Jim,

If you want my honest opinion, here is the way I see things.
If you're running a streetable FE engine thru an A/T I say the rear you have is adequate for street & occassional bash at a strip, just as long as you don't abuse it. It appears to be traction lock, so axles share the work burden after clutches tighten it up. If you generate a little wheel spin also, you should be all right for a long time.

You need to understand, It's not a bullet proof Dana 60 with huge floating Axles & huge HD bearings people here have alluded to. Your axles simply do not float at all. You will be able to twist or break your axles just like a 9" FoMoCo standard rear would. It has axles about same diameter as a regular 9" rear. It is not a floater because your axles are bolted to your housing using retainer plates on one end & "C" clips on the other hold the axle into the differential case.

FoMoCo didn't have drag racing in mind when they selected that Dana rear to use with the "O-D" three speed manual transmission. The biggest engine they used was either 223 I-6 or a 292 "Y" Block. Neither of which are known for brute force or big torque characteristics.

If I planned to go much over 575-600 lb/ft flywheel torque or dedicate the vehicle to hammering by constant drag competition then I'l look for a more optimum set up.

I hope this helps you make your decisions. In closing I'm sure everybody here will agree, DRAG RACING & INEXPENSIVE do not go in the same sentence very well. There is no such thing inexpensive drag racing today.

CIAO

FBp

FORDBOYpete wrote:Jim,

If you want my honest opinion, here is the way I see things.

If you're running a streetable FE engine thru an A/T I say the rear you have is adequate for street & occassional bash at a strip, just as long as you don't abuse it.

You need to understand It's not a bullet proof Dana 60 with huge floating Axles & huge HD bearings people here have alluded to. Your axles simply do not float at all. You will be able to twist or break your axles just like a 9" FoMoCo standard rear would. It has axles about same diameter as a regular 9" rear. It is not a floater because your axles are bolted to your housing using retainer plates on one end & "C" clips on the other hold the axle into the differential case.

If I planned to go much over 575-600 lb/ft flywheel torque or dedicate the vehicle to hammering by constant drag competition then I'l look for a more optimum set up.

I hope this helps you make your decisions.

CIAO

FBp

Thanks. It does help a bit. I'm really just trying to make a daily driver that I can have fun with on the street. I'll probably just keep the 429 semi stock with a mild rv cam and a shift kit on the c6. It's a 71 motor 4 barrel motor with D0VE-C heads 365hp supposedly and 486 ft lbs of torque - enough for me for having fun with the kids on the street. As far as the rear end goes, all I'm really trying to find out is if it's a decent locker type posi. It looks like a powr-lok from pictures I've seen on the web, and they' have a good reputation. I'm not going to hammer the truck at a drag strip, so all I really want to know is if the rear end will hook up like a posi. Also trying to understand how the axles "float" and if they're going to be strong enough. Thanks again, Jim

Thanks, I did not know about clicking on the profile for pictures (and I will bet a lot of others do not know it as well). As Pete noted these rearends are not full floating and never were. The rear you have is just the standard high load capacity limited slip F100 rear axle. It is not a special order item (as you can see, your door tag has a two digit DSO, if it was a special order it would have been a 6 digit number). As I have been saying from the begining, these rearends were just a standard option and are great to have for serious power. Hawkrod

Thanks for everyone's input. I e-mailed pictures to a drivetrain company in Nevada. I was told my rear end is a Dana 60.2, semi float 16 spline axles, and Powr-Lok. I believe he is correct. This should be good enough for what I'm building. And again, if anyone needs pictures, they're posted in my personal gallery. Just click on my membership name jbolivar and link to my gallery. You can also e-mail for pictures to jbolivar@sps.lane.edu

jbolivar wrote:Thanks for everyone's input. I e-mailed pictures to a drivetrain company in Nevada. I was told my rear end is a Dana 60.2, semi float 16 spline axles, and Powr-Lok. I believe he is correct. This should be good enough for what I'm building. And again, if anyone needs pictures, they're posted in my personal gallery. Just click on my membership name jbolivar and link to my gallery. You can also e-mail for pictures to jbolivar@sps.lane.edu

I have the very same rearend and want to swap the 4.10 for 3.54 R&P. Does anyone know where I can find instructions for doing this work?? Thanks!

If you can find a old ford truck chassis service manual it will show you the correct procedure.

To do a ring and pinion requires some special tools to find your starting points etc on setting one up correctly though.
It might be cheaper and easier to just find one with the gearing you want.
Or go to a shop that has the equipment to set one up.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear but close don't seem last very long in most cases on a rear end.