Slick 60's

I have a 66 F100 swb. 4wheel drum w/duel M.C. I am replacing the brake lines from the M.C.back to the drums. I was able to break lose all of the fittings and bleeder screws except for the brake HOSE where it connects to the Tee mounted with the rear end vent. I have tried everything but it will not break free. Can I abandon that Tee and install any Tee? Are these Tees still available? Should I use steel or stainless steel lines? I was planning on cutting and flaring my own lines. Good Idea? Bad Idea? What do I put on the end of the vent on the rear end vent? I cleaned it out.

and it will never break free.
it is part of the tee, new hose comes attached to new tee.dont put all new lines on with old rubber pieces.
you can get pre-flared lengths and couplings at the auto parts, but as nothing matches the stock pieces perfectly you will need to measure what you need before going to the store then do the math from the stores selection of lines.

the vent should have about 18" rubber hose on the end with a clip attaching it to the frame, hole pointing to the rear.

You know, I had to go out and look under my pickup just now to see what ICE was talking about. It appears that when I ran the new lines for my truck, I stopped at the rubber hose under the bed. The hard lines from the "T" vent are original. Rubber from them to the rear drums is new.

I need to look into this -- I could have swore I replaced all the lines, but I also know that I did not replace the rear vent/distribution block.

samdog -- does yours look this pic from partsamerica?

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_ima ... 230080.jpg

It seems that 65 may have had threads to that block, but in 66 they were using the one in the pic.

If you can get pre flared lines get it. I did my own and I screwed up alot , but you may not have these problems.

Z

Oh, I forgot to answer that part of the question. DO NOT TRY TO FLARE STAINLESS STEEL.

You will regret it. If you want stainless, retrofit the whole thing to AN fittings. Doubleflaring stainless is near impossible (I say near, because I managed to get it done -- wasted about 20 feet of tubing and ruined no less that three good quality double flare dies in the process, and only later found out that it was supposed to be impossible without a special hydraulic tool)

Maybe someone makes maleable stainless now -- there wasn't any out there 4 years ago at least.

well, and the original lines lasted this long... I think it would be fair if you had to replace the lines again in another 30-40 years.... I wouldnt go for stainless even if it wasnt impossible, unless making a show truck...

I've never seen AN fittings used as brake lines... I dont think so anyway.


I've made a whole lot of flares that turned out just fine. The key is to use a HIGH QUALITY flaring tool, tighten the living piss out of the clamping jig, and use the piece that inverts the flare as a judge for clamping.
Then run down the pointy screw as hard as you can to form it real nice. I generally even use a crescent wrench on it.

Another key factor is to make sure the flare nut is at the end, not trapped behind a bunch of bends..... I know from experience, trust me! I think I did one one time that had both nuts at the same end..... ha!

I've made plenty of double flares through the years, just can't stand having a line that's too long floppin' around.
Like Agatha eluded to, you definitely need a quality tool...none of that Chinese crap. Sometimes it takes a few practice runs to get your depth right, but once you get the hang of it, it works swell.

Slick Fan wrote:Sometimes it takes a few practice runs to get your depth right

determining the flaring depth involves NO guess work. Clamp the tube Loosely in the clamp. lay the inverting bushing
(IE that thing) next to the tube to use as a guide for positioning. You want the tip sticking out to be equal to the thickness of the hat.

If you dont have the bushing, you will never make an inverted flare.

I'm a little late on this but.....

The brass T's on the rearend vent are available through National Parts Depot. If you take it off the reared and put it in a vice (with copper jaws!) you should be able to break the hose free from it. The underside of these are shaped to fit the axle tubes, so be careful clamping it up in a vise.

I was able to get steel brake lines cut and flared at my local NAPA store. (They have a guy there that makes hydraulic lines etc.)The TEE was part of the hose like Iceman said. I got a new one from NAPA also. Next I will change the front brake lines and the fuel line from the tank(in cab)to the fuel pump.I think it is the original!
THANKS for all your help.