Slick 60's

Took old Uncle Skip's usually good advice (unless it pertains to an oil company, he is a little slanted that way ) and installed dot 5 silicone brake fliud in my all new brake system.

Bled and bled and bled that sucker, still cant get constant brake pressure. Can't find a leak anywhwere. Then I remembered back in the dark archives of my memory, back from when the wife would let me touch her, it's that long ago,, when someone said "you have to pull the little valve out on a Ford proportioning valve when bleeding the brakes". I didn't do that.

What does the little valve do? And is this true or has my corrupted hard drive of a memory got this wrong...

JC I think the little valve thingy is only needed after bleeding the brake light is still on that lets the valve center itself. Did you start at the right rear bleeding till you had clear fluid running and not run out of fluid in the process? Then the left rear then the right front then left front?

Yep thats how I bled 'em. 4 times now that's how I bled 'em. Bought this whole deal off Master Power brakes 4 years ago. guess my warranty has expired, in case it's the master cylinder that's hooped.

Tom is correct

i am going to assume (yes i know about assumtions )that:

A. all of the system , mc,lines and wheel cyls/calipers were new and empty.
B. the rear shoes are properly adjusted.

it takes a lot of brake fluid to push all the air out and refill all that space.
who is operating the pedal while you are bleeding? if they are letting the pedal up before the bleeder fitting is closed all the way it can suck air back in.

Back brake shoes were not adjusted (auto adjusters). my boy was on the pedal, he never let up until I told him to (after I got the bleeders closed).

Yes the entire system is brand new. All of it with the exception of aforementioned 78 prop. valve.

It could be the rear shoes. If they are not adjusted out, there is too much travel for the wheel cylinders. On new shoes, I always turn the adjusters all the way out (with the wheel and tire on) until I can't turn the wheel/tire anymore, then back it off until there is a slight drag on the shoe/drum. This centers up the shoes and takes the least amount of fluid to apply the brakes.

Johnny Canuck wrote:Back brake shoes were not adjusted (auto adjusters). my boy was on the pedal, he never let up until I told him to (after I got the bleeders closed).

Yes the entire system is brand new. All of it with the exception of aforementioned 78 prop. valve.

you need to adjust the rear shoes properly or they wont bleed out right.self adjusters are only for keeping them in the correct adjustment as they wear down.

You guys need to stick to what you know! LOL, Yes, the later model brakes do have a thingy and the shop manual shows the tool you need to hold it out. I made one from a piece of scrap sheet metal and cut a wide slot on the bottom and a narrow slot on the top to hold the valve open. If you do not use the tool you will bleed until the end of time and it won't work. I will try and post a picture later but i have an appointment in 15 minutes so i don't have time to dig for it right now. Hawkrod

Tom. Couldn't you just pull it out and clamp it open with vice grips? and exactly what does it do? Do I have to bleed or can I just pump the brakes a few times with it open to equalize pressure?

looks like this BTW
we are talking about the nipple on the far right

I could be wrong here, as I read up on this many moons/beers ago...
I think the little nipple thing is made to hold the piston inside in a neutral, centered postion while you bleed the brakes. If you start with an imbalance, the piston will be pushed off center & will make it very hard to properly bleed the brakes.
Again, just going from a rusty memory.

Hawkrod wrote:You guys need to stick to what you know! LOL,

Bad iceman, no snowcone

If you grab the rod with vice grips you may mar it and it may not back in properly. It is very easy to make a tool and keep it in the toolbox. This is not for centering the switch for the light and will not help center it so you will have to do that as well if you have it hooked up. Hawkrod

Thanks Guys I think you just answered my problem with my 79 brakes set up. I took it to a so called brake specialist who put the truck on some plates recessed into the floor it said that the rear brakes were getting more pressure than the front, so they machined the discs, new pads, one new rear wheel cylinder, parts and labour =$415.00 inc GST, I think its worse now but he said see how that goes it might need more adjusting and the proportioning valve might be cactus let us know how it goes(more like bring it back and we`ll rip you off again)


Alan,

WOW learn somethin everyday. Thanx Hawk!! So now tell me....does any fluid come out at this point or does it just put everything in place to properly bleed as usual? Does this valve adjust the pressure frt &rr ? If I put one into a 4 wheel drum setup (so I would have the warning light) would it work correctly?

Tim

ICEMAN6166 wrote:
Bad iceman, no snowcone

Now that is funny, I don't care what anybody else says, I am still giggling!

30 years with my 78 and I havent ever had to even touch that valve.

Many thanks to Tom, Ice and the restayas. I will try and adjust out the brakes, think I am gonna get my boy to stomp the brakes a few times while I hold that thing open, then make me a tool.

Fanatic wrote:WOW learn somethin everyday. Thanx Hawk!! So now tell me....does any fluid come out at this point or does it just put everything in place to properly bleed as usual? Does this valve adjust the pressure frt &rr ? If I put one into a 4 wheel drum setup (so I would have the warning light) would it work correctly?

Tim

Tim I dunno if there is a proportioning valve on drum brakes. Usually just a metering block, I think.

Tim,
get the piece from a bumpside with 4 wheel drum they have the warning light hookup.