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'61 exhaust/steering gearbox clearance (pics)
Posted: June 9, 2008, 1:51 pm
by lefty
I stabbed the 302 in my slick this weekend. And with the motor centered between the frame rails, the '84 mustang exhaust manifolds flange is almost touching the gearbox. What exhaust are you guys putting on your trucks to clear the stock steering... or should I relocate the gearbox and upgrade to powersteering? The motor sits a little high to me, but I will lower the engine after I get the front suspension where it needs to be. I will have pics up tomorrow so you can get a visual... Thanks in advance.

Posted: June 9, 2008, 2:06 pm
by jwh f-100
lefty, I used a set of hugger headers like these...
http://www.jegs.com/p/Dynomax/744710/10002/-1/10605
They worked out fine. They were very close to the bolts on the trans-dapt mount, I actually groud down the head of a bolt to clear. A carrige bolt installed would have worked fine. I had planned to get a mini starter anyway but the hugger headers made it a must.
On another note the original manifolds cleared also. The right side exits to the rear and the left manifold exits pretty much straight toward the ground. I try to get some pics.
Posted: June 9, 2008, 2:26 pm
by lefty
That will help alot Jason... thanks!
I have the Trans-Dapt mounts with the large rubber bisquits... not the saddle mounts with the round tube crossmember. Is that what you have also?
What kind of gas mileage are you getting with the 2.75 gears?
Posted: June 9, 2008, 7:01 pm
by Fanatic
Set the motor 1" to the right. I have a 63 Uni 5.0 with long tube headers on it. NO PROBLEM !
Tim
Posted: June 9, 2008, 8:36 pm
by Greg D
"Mustang factory manifolds", would those be the factory shorty headers? With engine mounted with the proper 1" offset those would be a good way to go.
Posted: June 10, 2008, 5:11 am
by jwh f-100
lefty wrote:That will help alot Jason... thanks!
I have the Trans-Dapt mounts with the large rubber bisquits... not the saddle mounts with the round tube crossmember. Is that what you have also?
lefty, I have the tube mount. Here is a couple pics.

starter side

old manifolds
I also 2nd what Tim said. I had a set of long tubes bolted on. All looked well until I needed to raise the engine to line up the z-bar.

I realy wanted the long tubes.
lefty wrote:What kind of gas mileage are you getting with the 2.75 gears?
Not sure, not on the road quite yet. I hope the 2.75 is not to tall for the 302. I may be ok though, very little traffic or stoping near me.
Waiting now for the budget fairy to visit me so I can order my disc brake stuff.
Posted: June 10, 2008, 2:18 pm
by lefty
Posted: June 10, 2008, 3:55 pm
by Greg D
You might find an easier fit with a set of Mustang shorty headers. If you go after market on them go for the smaller tube ones though.
Posted: June 10, 2008, 7:34 pm
by spstack
I uses a set of sanderson headers in my 289 they exit in the rear also used a full tube crossmember rather that those l brackets thay scare me and tha full cross member will tie your frame together a little better ok
happeniess is a chevy rusting
Posted: July 2, 2008, 11:54 pm
by Jimbo302
spstack wrote:I uses a set of sanderson headers in my 289 they exit in the rear also used a full tube crossmember rather that those l brackets thay scare me and tha full cross member will tie your frame together a little better ok
happeniess is a chevy rusting
Where do you order the full crossmember?
Posted: July 3, 2008, 3:09 am
by oldtrucks
Lefty
The engine should be a couple of inches to the passenger side, not centered. There won't be any header clearance issues then. That is the way I did the 61 and it worked perfect. That is factory location also. I fabricated my own engine mount towers and tranny mount so I didn't have to deal with the after market engine mount arrangements.
Posted: July 3, 2008, 8:05 am
by jwh f-100
Jimbo302 wrote:spstack wrote:I uses a set of sanderson headers in my 289 they exit in the rear also used a full tube crossmember rather that those l brackets thay scare me and tha full cross member will tie your frame together a little better ok
happeniess is a chevy rusting
Where do you order the full crossmember?
Jimbo, Judjing by your username I'm guessing you need a tube mount for a 302.
Take a look here.
http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3295 Try the dealer locator. I was able to get mine locally the day after I ordered. It was a few extra bucks but saved on shipping.
I used the 4849. The kit includes the tube and new pads.

Posted: July 3, 2008, 9:11 am
by MadMaxetc
lefty wrote:Greg D wrote:"Mustang factory manifolds", would those be the factory shorty headers? With engine mounted with the proper 1" offset those would be a good way to go.
Cast manifolds... and It isnt in there exactly perfect yet. I may be able to fudge it a little.
FE motor would have been what the truck wanted!!

I think if you go with some shorties you will be ok. They come down in the center of the engine not the back. jwh f-100 posted a good picture of this.
Posted: July 3, 2008, 9:37 am
by Jimbo302
jwh f-100 wrote:
Jimbo, Judjing by your username I'm guessing you need a tube mount for a 302.
Take a look here.
http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3295 Try the dealer locator. I was able to get mine locally the day after I ordered. It was a few extra bucks but saved on shipping.
I used the 4849. The kit includes the tube and new pads.

Thanks for the link.
Posted: July 3, 2008, 2:55 pm
by dwbr
Posted: July 4, 2008, 12:41 am
by johnny
my motor is centered and i have block hugger headers in my 65 w /302/c6
Posted: July 10, 2008, 2:52 pm
by lefty
I measured the crank centerline on a '66 and it was an 1-1/2" off center, so I scooted mine over that much. I left it where I could center it up when I get the money for headers... I did buy a '94 F-150 starter and installed it already. So I hopefully that will work for now. I hav'nt put the lead off pipes on the exhaust yet however.