Slick 60's

I am contemplating blasting the body of my truck but am unsure how to pull it off. I have a decent size driveway but all is visible to the neighbors. Is it technically "illegal" to use devices like that in front of your house or does it depend on the media you use. I would hate to get a ticket or piss off the neighbors.

Anyone with any experience in this area? Or would it be easier to have a shop do it. In which case, does anyone know a shop in the Austin TX area that can handle it?

Thanks

First off, you need a large compressor, at least 10 cfm/min at 90 psi. Tank size is NOT what matters.

That being said, blasting a WHOLE vehicle will be tedious as all get out.

And there is the ever present concerns about warping thin body pannels if using a pressure tank blaster.

You could try and blast it all with a siphon blaster. I've done several body pannels with my siphon blaster with no warpage. But its even more slow than the pressure tank setup.

I do think that blasting is the best choice for the frame if you are doing a frame up job. And for areas where there is rust, then there is nothing like grit to blast away all the damage. So perhaps some spot work with a siphon setup would be useful to you in the drive, but the whole truck -- I don't think so.....

I would personally try to find a place that could soda blast it for you. We have one at work and it is so much better than sand in my opinion as far as warping. It leaves the metal really clean and is easier to clean up than sand in my opinion. Chris

I agree that soda is not going to do much for rust, at least that is my understanding. But if you really want to take sound paint down to bare metal, it probably is the best option.

if you still want to still blast in your driveway
but need some privacy , consider making a 'temporary' shed
with 2x4s and cheap blue tarps
probably make it for less than 100$ , tear it down and have it ready for next time

slick4x4 wrote:if you still want to still blast in your driveway
but need some privacy , consider making a 'temporary' shed
with 2x4s and cheap blue tarps
probably make it for less than 100$ , tear it down and have it ready for next time

Make it right and you also have a nice temporary paint booth.

Even cheaper and more mobile, would be a 3/4 PVC frame work with tarps. Painted buddy's PU that way. Didn't glue any of the joints and have stored for the next project..

Ive used the cheapie syphon type sandblaster with 150 psi with no problems of warping.Probaby an industrial type that runs much higher pressure might cause some warpage.

i have a small pressure blaster.I am using black beauty media. it is fast on paint but the bottom of the cab is slow going.after trying this myself i will have it done nextime.

I should have added in my last post that sandblasting is one of the nastiest ,dirtiest jobs you can get into . i made a makeshift hood out of a welders helmet ,but still got sand in my eyes and ears and every where else. on a hat day you can have a heat stroke after putting on all that protective clothing. I used plain masonry sand after sifting it through a screen and it worked fairly well and is much cheaper than any other media. Also its almost impossible to keep sand out of bearings and shafts ,and other critical places ,so its best to blast parts removed from the vehicle.

with lowell
been there done that never again unless it is just a small spot or 2 just to messy. wore hood cover alls goggleswelders cap and still was covered in sand afterward

i see you`re from tx. me too. don`t even consider sandblasting in tx in the summer, unless small parts. i`m like greg, sandblasting is no problem for these trucks. down here, i use sugar sand (white). it has very little dust, unlike the brown sands that are larger grit size. you can see your work much better w/o the dust. don`t blast in your driveway, you will piss off the neighbors. my compressor is diesel. 100cfm. i bought used, $1500. it gets pricey. so, if a one time thing, pay someone to do it. if you get into it, buy your own. my 2cents. jack

Thanks guys! This is really one of my best resources for building my slick

Anyways, since it is a one time thing I will probably just have it done professionally. The neighbors allready tolerate the grinding, welding and air compressor. public sand blasting might be too much.

Thanks again

If you really wanted to soda blast I have found this place in dallas. (they have have others or maybe refer you). http://sodablasting.com/ This is a rental trailer with compressor and whole setup. Something to keep in mind.

I want to do this to my stuff but have not just yet. Also you may think about finding someone with a big field and blast it out there. Load all on trailer then to the middle of the field you go.

Just my $.02

most any kind of blasting will warp outside sheet metal especially if there is something behind like a brace or other metal. Chemically strip all outside panels at a very cheap cost and save the underside and inside box for sandblasting.

I have seen some soda blasting or plastic media blasting do a fairly nice job on sheet metal but every time I see a trunk or deck lid done with either it has warped panels so they cannot be fixed.

The outside sheet metal cannot be stripped much easier than with aircraft paint remover if done right.

Are you planning on painting just the outside or are you tearing it completely down to do underneath etc? Are you doing the frame also?

I was planning on doing the whole body not just the outside and I wanted something that would take rust off also

I know I'm late to the game here but:

I used to sandblast monuments and signs.

1 its carcinogenic in many cases, particularly with the silicates
2 its incredibly messy
3 it NEVER all comes out. the truck will weigh 2X as much when done and when you go to paint it better all be out.
4 you will really want to do it right, 125CFM trailered compressor, 100lb pot, correct helmet and particulate respirator
5 did I mention cancer?

I wouldn't worry about warpage. Slicks are made from retired battleships
Lots of steel, just keep the nozzle moving.

I'm with BYR, use a chem stripper.
Airplane remover and then D/A it with 80 grit is my advice.

I had thought about chem strip for the paint but will that handle the rust?

jecsd1 wrote:I had thought about chem strip for the paint but will that handle the rust?

I'd cut it out, use Blue lightning, or POR 15.
Preferably the former