Slick 60's

Look'n for somes help here. I have two motors a 429 and a 302. My question to y'all. If I put the 429 in my 63 some of my friends tell me it would be best to change the front end. Like cut and add. I'm lean'n more to the 302 so I don't have to get red of my straight axle. If I do keep the straight axle and put the 302 in it could I add power steering to my ride. I do want to add disc brakes to the truck. Just some opinions would be nice.

driver or toy?
if you need LOTS of HP theres ''no replacement for cubic displacment''
if your going to use it and drive it, i vote 302
one of fords best motor IMO
small, good performance, and plenty of them around
gas cost=$ more efficient
just my

DRIVER AND FUN

Not running a Big Block with a straight axle is a myth. There's no more than 200lb difference. If that was the case your truck will be dangerous with a passenger too right ? Simply not true. You would be best lowering your truck a little with the big block to improve your center of gravity which is a more accurate description of the actual problem. Or perhaps adding a extra spring. I would do neither as i see it as unnecessary. Of course that's assuming that you don't take corners like NASCAR. Just my take for what its worth. sorry, didn't mean to sound defensive but i get tired of defending straight axles.

Good luck.

i met a guy just just last week told him about forum he has a great truck (Almost) it has a big block c$%^* with fender well headers and 17 inch nascar wheels (wish i had my camera) with a 5 speed said he has never had any trouble drives great and is fun in fact hes looking for a dropped straight axle to replace his stocker it still has the drums all the way around needs paint but is just cool looking,, go big just save each week for the gas my

john

Straight axle is fine. Back in the day, race cars had straight axles. And if the truck or car didn't have straight axle, one was added. I wouldn't be concerned about engine weight. a 240 or 300 six probably weighs as much as a 429. Just build it as you wish. Don't get me wrong, I love the small block Fords and would not hesitate putting one in there.
That's enough ramblings from an old man.....................

When "choosen" a motor, the first thing to do is look at the valve covers.


if they say on them you are on the right track.

I run a 472 EFI in "Christine" of course she has a few bad habits, but all around not bad.

Garbz

I run a EFI 5.0 in my 65. My dad runs a 390 in his. I'm pretty familiar with both, but Can't comment on straight axle+bigblock. . .

But I can tell you that you can put EFI on an old-school 302 with little trouble. Even if you don't, you wouldn't regret the Small-block. When set up properly, they are fun engines with plenty of torque and they really are pretty lightweight.

The biggest drawback to the big block if you are daily driving it is the expense - not just gas. All the parts are more expensive since they stopped making them[the engines] some time ago. The after market is limited and quite expensive. But you'l make some EASY and HUGE power numbers without much work . . .all you'll need is a whole lot of gas. . .

It is A LOT heavier than the 302. Last time I ran the numbers, they were a lot closer to a 300lb difference between the two.

Johnny Canuck wrote:When "choosen" a motor, the first thing to do is look at the valve covers.


if they say on them you are on the right track.

these are ok too

The biggest drawback to the big block if you are daily driving it is the expense - not just gas. All the parts are more expensive since they stopped making them[the engines] some time ago. The after market is limited and quite expensive. But you'l make some EASY and HUGE power numbers without much work . . .all you'll need is a whole lot of gas. . .

The 460 was last made in a 1997 F250/F350 trucks. There is a very strong support for the 460 with all parts readily available.
The 302 died about the same time with the debut of the mod engine. You just hear more about the 302 because of the Mustang.

The 460 was last made in a 1997 F250/F350 trucks. There is a very strong support for the 460 with all parts readily available.
The 302 died about the same time with the debut of the mod engine. You just hear more about the 302 because of the Mustang.

Sorry got the 429 confused with all those FE blocks.

But I do take issue with the 302 comment. . .
The 302 production was ceased in 1995, but the blocks were put in expoloders and trucks up through 2000. The demise of the 302 had nothing to do with the mustang, it was discontinued to make way for the modular platform.Like any good corporation, ford made the most of it's tooling and gradually replaced all the small-blocks with the mod platform.

You hear a lot about the SBF for several reasons. The MAIN reason is that it is one of the longest running production engines in Ford history that was put in nearly every platform they produced at one time or another, second to that is the huge aftermarket that follows such a long-lived engine.

Welcome to slicks ( I missed your inrtro because I have been busy as heck here)

I have a fresh 460 in my straight axel slick with about 2200 into it with the external goodies included, everything is new and I will not worry about hurting it in the 64 if I run it hard, plus that little bit of extra weight up front would actually help hold the front end down when running down them bumpy roads.

you could go with the 302 if you just want to put around town, I guess

shawns fords wrote: you could go with the 302 if you just want to put around town, I guess

Now come on. . .

The 302 is neither a bad decision nor is it a puttering engine. Now I must admit that EFI makes it much easier to run a small block in a truck, but I certainly wouldn't say that it's weak.

It's no big block, but it makes loads of torque for the increased mileage you get.

With all that said, if I get another daily driver and my slick is relegated to part-time duty, I would consider an fuel injected 460. . .

The difference will be your chassis & ease of mounting what you install. It really doesn't matter what you put in a 64 or earlier chassis if it is 65 or later engines & drive trains. Everything is a modification more or less between the two types/ styles of chassis.

The upgrades you mention, P/S PDB or manual D/B, as well as room to route inboard exhaust are a snap with 65 & later chassis because it uses all OEM parts.

In the other aspect, 57-64 + 65-6 4X4 "ladder chassis", the side bellhousing mounts get in the way. An add on X member needed to support later engines, whether it be Windsor or 385 series falls approx @ center of the older wagon style, 4 semi elliptical leaf spring, suspension geometery.

I disagree a single I beam with 4 leaf springs handles just fine. They have a tendency to swap ends when you least expect it, of you don't build & modify to prevent it, or at least it did that to me enough times I got rid of my integral bed (uni) 63 F-100 because of it. weight has little to do with it, it's the blast of raw torque 385's spit out in an instant. Especially if they run very well. It can get white knuckle all too quickly.

P/S will either be some sort of a Toyota Rube Goldberg deal where you replace your FoMoCo Box & linkage then Fab or Buy ready made brackets to mount the correct pump on which ever engine you choose.

In Addition Disc brakes will either be a lot of hunting & work, or you'll have to purchase a ready made kit using other, non FoMoCo, Parts like rotors, calipers, adaptor brackets and so forth.

Then you need to consider Shocks & anti Swaybar better spring Bushings etc etc. see where it goes? Also with the 4 leaf springs, there's inordinate weight transfer because all those leaves want to "Unload" with a lurch of forward acceleration, so traction devices are a must. 4 link is best, but a good set of non slapper bars help a lot also'. Slappers shorten leaves in effect making the rebound cycle more frequent & traction less attainable.

I'd do a 5.0L it doesn't make unGodly torque of even a factory stock 385. It would be a mitigating factor in radicalizing 64 & earlier chassis & suspension to deal with +/- 550 Lb-Ft of possibe applicable torque with a well tuned 429. . . . .

That's my opinion but who the "H" am I and what the "H" do I know anyway?

FBp

all I know on the subject is that I had a crappy friend in Highschool that said that his F150 with 302 was fine for driving around, unloaded, but pulling or loaded it was pretty weak, and he believed it would NOT be up to snuff to drag me home when I chucked the driveshaft.

oh yeah, and disk brakes are easy... I bought the complete kit, but to do it again, I would piece it togehter.... Wait, I did... on my cousin's truck...

but anyway,
1973 FORD Rotors
Bearings and races for your year truck
1973 C#@^Y calipers and hoses
bracket- about $60 from custom shop CPP

I own a 64 F100 with a big block (brand x ) & stock drum brakes.Engine swap was done 30 years ago. No problems with handling or brakes. Just set them up right & no road racing[/quote]

DCarr wrote:I own a 64 F100 with a big block (brand x ) & stock drum brakes.Engine swap was done 30 years ago. No problems with handling or brakes. Just set them up right & no road racing

[/quote]
hey dave first off your truck is awsome and also to the club hope you enjoy and keep in touch,,, John
oh i hope post jacking is njot a crime (or something like that right Mr Canuck)