Take the lazy way out.... Disc Brake Conversion

[DanSanDiego2000]

When I say lazy, it's because I don't have the energy to do a search for this topic.

I am considering a disc brake conversion.

1965 F100, Twin I beam, of course.

I will buy new rotors from Napa, or similar, along with pads. I just need to know the right stuff to get.

I guess I will need a donor for things like caliper brackets, different spindles, or whatever else I need.

MOST OF ALL, I need your wisdom, Slicksters.

Please "Line me up" with the correct year donor, and the correct year to look up the aftermarket new stuff like rotors, pads, hoses, etc.

I would consider a conversion kit from the aftermarket as well. Especially if I could get just the brackets, and round up the rest of the stuff myself.

Eagerly awaiting your input, all.

Dan

[cdherman]

From a fellow member here:

http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/f100discs.html

And, at a fellow Ford site:

www.fordification.com

Both of those sites deal with getting the parts in a junkyard. You can get everything you need "new" as well, but it will cost you vastly more. Basically, you need the spindle/rotor, calipers, backing plates etc as well from 71 - 78 approx. You need proportioning valve from that era as well. You need a manual dual chamber disk/drum master cylinder from that era too.

You'll need to be able to run a hacksaw and file to shorten the rod from the brake pedal to the Master cylinder.

You need to be able to make new lines, or be willing to get lines from your parts place and bend them to fit. There ain't no "kits" out there that will avoid this part.

You need some sort of flexible lines from the hard lines to the calipers -- 83-87 Dodge Charger is what I am useing. Hey, its the only non-Ford on my truck. At least its not a chebby..... This allowed me to keep my stock brakets on the frame (where the hard lines end and the rubber ones start).

Have fun......

[racerx1699]

To me this is the easis't way to do front disc brakes I got the whole kit for about $350, and it bolted up in about 1 hour. Kit part #653

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/6570fordtruck.html
It came with everything

[cdherman]

Nice look, agreed.

But the whole kit, with booster, MC, prop valve, rotors, calipers and flexible lies is $790.

Just the rotors and calipers is $390 and you need to supply the MC, prop valve and flex lines.

And you still need to run new hard lines, either way.

By useing genuine Ford parts, you can get replacement parts forever from your local place, as long as you remember what year truck you got your spindles from.

HOWEVER: I'd consider it if it were the case that you could use stock wheels with it. I have stock rims on my 65 and I have cleerance problems with the hub caps -- the hub/spindle is too long and I had to cut a hole in my hub cap to get it to fit. Perhaps the ABS setup would have solved that. So if you are looking at stock rims, call them and find out (they may not know, however).

Maybe racerx has a stock rim to bolt up and see?

[racerx1699]

The ad says $390 for the kit, but when I called and ordered it, it was $350. The kit came with everything including rubber hoses that would have connected to the stock brake lines. I think you can use stock mid 70's booster MC and prop valve. I chose not to use them because I installed all steel braided lines, and I want to use a chrome booster and MC when I get to that point (I'm not building a stock truck). I went with this kit because I didn't have to change spindles and king pins, so this is a LAZY way to install disc brakes.
As for using stock wheels I don't know, I don't have one to try, I never intended to use a stock wheels. If I can find a stock wheel and hub cap I'll try and see if it fits.
I'd also recommed the set up CD has, it's a little more work but you keep all ford parts. It's also getting harder to find a 70's F150 in the salvage yards, so you may have to look for a whole truck (my wife wouldn't let me do that). You could call or PM Tom (6166 junkyard dog) he'll probably have all the parts you need.

[cdherman]

The local pick and pull here usually has 3-5 of them. I have been tempted to harvest a setup sometime, just for friends at the next slick stock. I think $50 would cover the works here, maybe $100. Most of the front spindles are going to the crusher, as the number of drum to disk swaps is falling off I think.

The KEY parts to get by cheap are to get the prop valve, and the spindle/hub/rotor. Firewall bracket as well if you desire power brakes. Usually you'll want new or remaned calipers, MC etc, so unless the place is willing to give them to you for real cheap, just leave them.

You will use the calipers, MC etc for core anyhow.

ABS wants like $300 for a booster and MC. Well if you harvest the firewall bracket, you can get a $100 remaned, loaded booster/MC plus $30 for core from O'Reilleys....... And then if it gives you trouble, its a free replacement as long as you own the truck and your local chain still is in business.

As for dealing with removing the spindles -- junk yards will do it for you -- usually just by torching the ibeam.

I was able to actually just re-use my orignal king pins, so I didn't even have to deal with re-bushing. You may get lucky too......

Understandably, some folks live a long way from a decent pick and pull. And perhaps going to one is a bit too much adventure (say hello to a "diverse" socio-economic group"). I find though that rescueing parts from the crusher gives me added satisfaction.

[DanSanDiego2000]

Thanks for the responses. The bolt-on kit is exactly what I pictured. I don't WANT to deal with different I-Beam and King Pins..... if a bracket can bolt to my spindle, bring it on!

I am running factory wheels and hub caps, so I would have to take into consideration the grease cap to hubcap clearance.

My sudden interest in the project came about the other day after by 10,000 mile old 4-wheel dumb brake job apparently went bad. I found the only Dumb part of my Dumb brakes (sorry, "Drum" brakes) was the mechanic who last worked on it. For now, new drums, new shoes, adjusted properly, and I am back on the road.

The conversion will once again be a aspiration, and now not a frustrated reaction to a simple drum brake job.

I have the factory booster, and single master cylinder, and that makes it a little less convenient to swap to disc, after spending the time and money to upgrade to power drum. I would not want to start over with a new dual master, wiring, hydraulic lines, proportioning valve, etc.

At least now I know how to do it when the right time comes.

Thanks again.

Dan[/img]

[cdherman]

You cannot just put disk brakes on the front of a pickup that otherwise is set up for a single pot master cylinder and drum brakes.

You must have a dual cylinder master and prop valve that maintains the correct residual pressure (different for drum and disk) to the wheel cylinders / calipers.

The distribution block on your existing frame is just a "T".

Sorry to dissappoint.

Also, in terms of running stock rims. Do you mean "innie" rims that take the bottle cap hubcaps?

I said the ABS setup *might* allow those to be used. When I look more at the pic, I get real doubtful. I think they may be even worse than the OEM hubs, in terms of allowing use of original rims.

Perhaps you intend to go with aftermarket rims anyhow, so no problem.

I think (I will get around to it eventually) if I put a 5/16" spacer behind my rims and a flat grease cap, I might be able to get my hubcaps on.

It would be great if Racerx had an orignal "innie" rim laying around to check the clearance with....

[Uncle Skip]

Bro'
Ain't nothing easy.
Start scrounging the wrecking yards...... the parts are there, they're cheap, but don't forget the front sway bar while you're at it.
Its worth the wait, worth the money, worth the work.
No shirt, no shoes, no problems.
Just get out there and get your hands dirty.
U@ss

[ezernut9mm]

too bad i'm half a continent away. i have a complete front end off a 74 f150 in my shed. both i beams, spindles, calipers, dust shields and rotors. i'm tired of tripping over them.

[rider307g]

ezernut9mm
how much for the front end without the i beams? I am in so cal. Just curious at this time.

[Jarrod]

Rider, where in socal are you? There is a big wreking yard called Ajax Auto over by the salton sea. VIsit their website. www.ajaxauto.com. THey can take care of you. I live in grover beach, right by the pismo dunes

[ezernut9mm]

i wouldn't even know what to ask rider, but i'll bet dollars to doughnuts that shipping would kill any kind of good deal i could make you. those rotors/hubs and spindles are crazy heavy.