Slick 60's

Posted: **November 14, 2008, 9:35 pm**

Hola from Washington state.

First, this is not the first 66 F250 I have had, but until this one I have not heard the term "slick" applied to them...care to enlighten this one?

Anyway my first was a 1966 F250 with the 300HD and a 1 ton rear end setup, geared so low that 60 miles an hour was a pipe dream and 55 would beat the hell out of you, but gods help anything you hooked onto the backside with a thick logging chain.

"new" truck is also a 66 F250, however this time around it comes with the 352 2V motor... a beast that I have yet to meet and play with, or kill it

so any advice on THAT part will come in handy. Sadly I only have the pics from evilbay and have yet to pick it up, that happens next week

Oh, one more question... I noticed someone mention in the tips and tricks section (under buying trucks) that he wouldn't touch one that had a sprayed in bed liner..why is this?... That was one of the things I was planning on doing if the beds good. Hmmm, or is that why, the possibly rotten bed underneath the liner.

Posted: **November 14, 2008, 9:50 pm**

From Michigan. Sounds like a god project.

Posted: **November 14, 2008, 9:53 pm**

"slick" was a word the founders of this site came up with.
it kind of stuck,and has been used for a lot of years now.

352 is the facctory v8 engine, plenty of info on those.

one ton rear end 4.88 gears and 352 v8 sounds like concorde jet @ 100 mph.

as to the spray in liners they can and do hide lots of stuff.however i would do it on my own truck over a good bed with no rust.

Posted: **November 14, 2008, 10:10 pm**

Welcome from ElCajon!

Any slick project is a good one on this site. Anything you need to know (and some you don't) just put it in a topic and you'll get PLENTY of answers/opinions.

Posted: **November 14, 2008, 10:17 pm**

Its going to take days to dig through the site as is...and gods know its just going to make the wait to head down for it that much worse.

My main goal is to get it working and safe...the "house" we just bought needs a lot of work and I hate paying people to bring me things, or haul them away...so a good work truck was needed.

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 12:48 am**

I agree, there are times when a man NEEDS a truck! May as well be a cool one while you're at it, so a Slick is an no-brainer.

Welcome aboard.

Can you show us your auction pics to tide us over?

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 7:16 am**

Hey demon,

Welcome to the slick club, slickitis as Slick fan calls it is an addiction.
I agree they are or can be made into very reliable trucks.
All the info on upgrades to the slicks are in this site and links found here.
I cast one vote for DIY rollon bed liner, I used grey Herculiner.
The metal of the bed had some holes so I used fiberglass patches,
painted it black, then did the roll on liner.

Good luck with the new slick, Brian

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 7:20 am**

One source I have heard for the term "Slick";
When the Unibody first hit the market in 1960 some said "That is slick looking" and the name stuck.

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 7:34 am**

Also two other body styles have names. Like the 67-72 are called bumpsides because of where the body side is moulding it bumps out. The 73-79 are called dent sides cause the body dents in for the body side moulding. I dont want to forget the older fords. The 60 and older are called fridges because they kinda resemble a refridgerator. the ones older than that were just called fat fenders. Just a tad bit of info to help you out in the future. BTW i also have a 66 f-250 with a 352 c-6 combo with elderbrock performer390 intake and rv cam 600 carter 4bbl carb with headers. At 60mph mine is so low geared its taching around 3500. I dont know what gears i have for sure as it dont have a tag any more.

Foggy

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 10:22 am**

sure thing Slick Fan, tossed the three I have into the album..needs some work, but not many of these ol gals don't these days.

foghorn may I ask which headers you have? And how big a pain they were to install, my understanding is that the right side can be a huge pain depending on brand..also mine has a manual in it.. I head down to Tacoma on Thursday to pick her up.

So far I know the speed and oil gauges do not work, though he thinks the oil is just plugged as it worked when he bought the truck.

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 10:32 am**

With regards to spray or role in bedliners, I think the real issue is how long you want to keep a truck and what happens down the road.

Its a given that a sprayed in liner over ANY rust will lead to problems down the road (like a hole through the bed).

Assuming you truely have ALL the rust off the metal, then a spray in liner will be OK for a while.

But, lets follow that logic -- now you USE the truck and over the next 5-10 years the liner ages and gets some dings and holes. Rust starts under those dings and holes. Now, in 10 years you decide you need to remove the liner and re-apply. But how do you get that stuff off? You DON"T!!

If you paint the bed good and proper and hit new rust spots with sand blaster every few years and touch up the paint, you will never have to try and remove a spray in liner.

Of course, if you never plan to use the truck anyhow, then why bother with a liner in the first place.

I have a fitted peice of old carpet that I toss in the bed over my paint. It looks funny (I could get some better color carpet) but I have a near perfect paint job in the bed and I've used it quite a bit over the last 4 years.

I say, always be VERY careful when doing anything that is very hard to reverse. Spray-in bedliners are in that catagory.

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 11:44 am**

foghorn wrote:Also two other body styles have names. Like the 67-72 are called bumpsides because of where the body side is moulding it bumps out. The 73-79 are called dent sides cause the body dents in for the body side moulding. I dont want to forget the older fords. The 60 and older are called fridges because they kinda resemble a refridgerator. the ones older than that were just called fat fenders. Just a tad bit of info to help you out in the future. BTW i also have a 66 f-250 with a 352 c-6 combo with elderbrock performer390 intake and rv cam 600 carter 4bbl carb with headers. At 60mph mine is so low geared its taching around 3500. I dont know what gears i have for sure as it dont have a tag any more.

And in 1982, I bought a new F-150. They were called "Bhoe Boxes". I think that body ran from 1980 to 1986.
Jim

Foggy

Posted: **November 15, 2008, 10:17 pm**

From kingston washington

Posted: **November 16, 2008, 10:16 pm**

I get the impression that some of the things I want and plan for the truck would come close to getting me kicked from here..like cutting the dash for a radio, changing out the motor (351w *shrug* its newer).

So did Ford make a dually in 66? if so does anyone have a pic of one?

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 3:05 am**

Yes they did make a f-350 i painted one for a friend about 15-20 years ago. I think it was a 1965 dont remember for sure on the year but do know it was in the slicks. But i do know of a 1965 thats a wrecker for a car lot in tulsa.

Foggy

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 9:24 am**

Demonknight wrote: I get the impression that some of the things I want and plan for the truck would come close to getting me kicked from here..like cutting the dash for a radio, changing out the motor (351w *shrug* its newer).

The only thing I have ever seen anyone kicked from here for, is being extremely rude to your fellow members. There's usually a way to install a radio without chopping a big hole in your dash, but hey it's YOUR dash. A 351W is a common swap in here, I would guess about 20-25% of the club's trucks have SBF's.

I have always railed loudly against Chebby or other brand X swaps, but then I believe I contributed to one of our best member's leaving, due to that ,and now I regret it. Generally I will advise against it, criticize trucks outside of the club for it, but try and hold my tongue to the actual members that have them. I am not always successful in that particular endeavor

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 11:14 am**

[quote
I have always railed loudly against Chebby or other brand X swaps, but then I believe I contributed to one of our best member's leaving, due to that ,and now I regret it. Generally I will advise against it, criticize trucks outside of the club for it, but try and hold my tongue to the actual members that have them. I am not always successful in that particular endeavor

[/quote] th_

well now i dont feel so bad about installing that studebaker engine in
my truck !

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 12:02 pm**

well I have to agree with the chevy to ford thing..I can't stand it either. I have friends that rebuild/mod old cars (pre49's) and they seem to drop chevy into anything due to cost...I keep telling them nothing about the cars are cheap, why go cheap on the motor?

That said we were talking about doing a setup using a Ipod for the radio, just need a small amp and some decent speakers..I don't mind as much about cutting into the removable section of the door. of course this may all be besides the point..I have no idea what has, or hasn't been done to my new truck.. I'll find out on Thursday.

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 12:29 pm**

JC, After I joined and cruised the site for a while , I thought for quite a while about posting my "confession" due to the sentiment of more than a few members of the club-no one enjoys rejection from their peers. But the response was very positive, and I really appreciate all the kind comments from you and the other members. This really shows the true makeup of this club. With that said - KEEP IT ALL FORD ! The truck will be worth more. I've built virtually every brand of engine for street or race usage and Ford castings have consistently been better than the others -especially the FE. It may cost a few more dollars , but it's worth it in longetivity and power. Ramble done---David.

Posted: **November 17, 2008, 6:28 pm**

cdherman wrote:With regards to spray or role in bedliners, I think the real issue is how long you want to keep a truck and what happens down the road.

Its a given that a sprayed in liner over ANY rust will lead to problems down the road (like a hole through the bed).

Assuming you truely have ALL the rust off the metal, then a spray in liner will be OK for a while.

But, lets follow that logic -- now you USE the truck and over the next 5-10 years the liner ages and gets some dings and holes. Rust starts under those dings and holes. Now, in 10 years you decide you need to remove the liner and re-apply. But how do you get that stuff off? You DON"T!!

If you paint the bed good and proper and hit new rust spots with sand blaster every few years and touch up the paint, you will never have to try and remove a spray in liner.

Of course, if you never plan to use the truck anyhow, then why bother with a liner in the first place.

I have a fitted peice of old carpet that I toss in the bed over my paint. It looks funny (I could get some better color carpet) but I have a near perfect paint job in the bed and I've used it quite a bit over the last 4 years.

I say, always be VERY careful when doing anything that is very hard to reverse. Spray-in bedliners are in that catagory.

guess i am confused on this but is not the spray in liner adhered to the paint underneath ?
having not had one i cant say what strength it has in relation to paint as far as durability against chipping, scratching or other forms of bed abuse
but i think its supposed to be superior because otherwise what is the point?

cannot small spots be touched up rather than complete removal of the liner?

i would seriously paint my entire bed with this if i could afford it as i have used it on my 66 4x4s stepwells,kickpanels and firewall and its so far indestructible.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=HN&dept=5

in fact now that i see this wonder what the spray in liner cost is in relation to the price of the por.

Slick 60's

DemonSteed

DemonSteed

welcome/bedliner