Slick 60's

Seems all the header threads that came up in the search were for either 302/351W or 429/460 engine swaps.

I want some headers for the 352 in my '66. 2WD, manual steering and manual brakes. The disc swap will also be done soon, well, before June at least.

Summit has some Hedman headers. I also saw Thorley mentioned in the one or two threads I did find and I know Stan's makes some Tri-Y that are PIMP. [I want the Tri-Ys for the 429 in my Bronco, but the '66 takes priority over that raggedy Bronco.]


So does nobody run headers on a 352/390??


Thanks.

I searched the threads a while ago and someone posted this site.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers1.htm
They look to be very good quality and fit the 4wd which is why I was searching at the time. It says they also fit 2wds. Kind of pricey though.

Yeah, those are the Stan's Try-Y headers. They're almost $600.

http://www.stans-headers.com/ford_headers.htm


I just can't spend that kinda money right now, the paint job, engine rebuild and gathering parts for the disc brake swap is gonna stretch it pretty thin.

This might not be a popular answer, but LMC has headers for 352/360/390 that are made by Hedman Headers. Cost is somewhere in the $260 - $325 price range.

Yeah, those are the ones Summit has, the Hedman's.


I was just wondering how they fit and if they're fairly uncomplicated - meaning no arguments on install, go in there like they should. But I guess since I'll have the engine out, installation won't be an issue.

I just need to make sure they fit and clear.

I run a set of Hooker headers on my 66.... been a year since i put them in and no exaust leaks.

Make sure the headers have at least 5/16 if not a 3/8 mounting flange. The 1/4" flange leak after a while.

Headers on Fe Motors can be a nitemare,, run a lot of heat so it will tear up starters form all that heat,, need to starter to be wrapped to protect it,, hard to get the top bolt in with headers on the starter,, Then to get a good fit and make it easier to bolt on take your die grinder and instead of having all the tube flanges connected separate each exhaust cylinder tube flange that bolts to the head from each other,, use 2 sets of header gaskets,, grade 8 or 9 bolts with never seize, run 3" out the bottom to the back with in the middle of the system a cross flow pipe to a equal it like Mustng's use,,,,,

Thanks for the replies.

I think I'm gonna hold off on headers until I can spend the big bucks for some good ones.

Sanderson.
They have the thick flange, they're ceramic coated, they fit, and they are the best value for your hard earned buck.
Ask BroncoTom.
About $400.00.
U@ss

I know several guys running the Ford Powertrain headers for '55 to '57 T-birds. They fit and function very well. I have to believe it will be the same for their other offerings. As always, you get what you pay for.
Too bad they don't offer anything for Y-block trucks.

Effie wrote:Seems all the header threads that came up in the search were for either 302/351W or 429/460 engine swaps.

I want some headers for the 352 in my '66. 2WD, manual steering and manual brakes. The disc swap will also be done soon, well, before June at least.

Summit has some Hedman headers. I also saw Thorley mentioned in the one or two threads I did find and I know Stan's makes some Tri-Y that are PIMP. [I want the Tri-Ys for the 429 in my Bronco, but the '66 takes priority over that raggedy Bronco.]


So does nobody run headers on a 352/390??


Thanks.

I found a New set of Hedmans for 1.00 at a garage sale. Fit is pretty much perfect. This style header makes more power than about any other you can put on the truck. From less than mild to 500hp & up.

Had I not got these for almost free would probably have purchased something else but now that I see how they fit and have seen dyno sheets using them....

tons of room and no pipes are even close to anything

I got Heddman ceramic coated headers and do not have the starter issue.

The only thing I hate is the collector. It is right next to the tranny and in front of the crossmember.

I am running a set of Flowtech headers on my 65, I can tell you from personal experience (ask Skip) to stay away from the Dynomax and Blackjack headers. They will not fit, period. The primary tube will not clear the motor mount perch whatsoever.

I can NOT recommend the Doug Thorley headers...had them on my 68 w/ a 360...gotta pull the header to change the starter...no room to get it out.

Cam

Are there any headers made that you can replace the starter without removing the header?

if you're afraid of having to pull the header to pull starter, you'll have to stay away from Sanderson Block huggers too.

On the plus side, they are very easy to wrestle in and out... Other than having to play with the bolts.

I do hope very strongly that the starter doesnt go out in the middle of nowhere as it is somewhat of a PITA. The starter looks like it would come out, but it has to slide about 1/2 inch out of its hole to drop away, and it is butted right against the primary pipes.

(yeah, the end of the starter has less than 1/8 inch clearance from the hottest part of the exhaust.) but I have never had ANY sign of trouble. Ive been running them for about 2 years.

if you're afraid of having to pull the header to pull starter

A.leave the headers in the store.

B.get a brand new starter and install it before you do the headers, that will lessen the need to deal with it later.

never met a header i did not have to remove to get the starter out, even the cliffords on the wifes 6 cyl are in the way. not by much but you still have to remove it.

Moose wrote:I am running a set of Flowtech headers on my 65, I can tell you from personal experience (ask Skip) to stay away from the Dynomax and Blackjack headers. They will not fit, period. The primary tube will not clear the motor mount perch whatsoever.

I had a set made by a speed shop in Michigan, I didn't get to install them but I sold them to turbo matt and they wouldn't fit...

I'd try to find a highschool shop class in need of a project and have them make the headers then send 'em off to be coated

I have a 65 352 fe with the same setup and i am running the doug thorleys on mine, ceramic coat keeps the heat away from the starter so no matter what you buy, get ceramic, it will help protect the starter. Call Doug Thorley and tell them you are a member of this site and they will hook you up. Also, I am in Southern california and I didn't look to see where you were, but if you are near by come look at mine and see what you think.