Slick 60's

not a journey for the meek and mild=getting ready to fabricate my own crew cab slick.any ideas, comments, advice, detailed pics of crew cabs etc.greatly appreciated.i know there are a few who have done extended cabs and crews so i want to know all the terrible things to beware.
sounds simple to say
i am going to attach a uni cab and bed onto the rear of another cab, thereby making a 4 door truck.
no frame issues to deal with the space is there.156" w.b.
i have enough trucks to cut matching metal from roofs etc. for the job.

i will need to make some uni-dually fenders, this will be one of the more challenging things, i want to use the same body line, i thought about cutting the wheelwell area, tub and all from another bed and using those as the dually flares.

p.s.
if you see a couple guys in white suits with a net and straight jacket asking about me, point them in the opposite direction.
let the fun begin

That sounds like a good project. I want to do one to only I have not time, money or space!

just remember...mesure thrice cut once!

Godd Luck!

Quite a project to start in the winter up there dude.
If I were you I'd try and get in contact with Garbz and that guy in New York(Rhode island?) who used to have 2.

I think one of your challenges might be getting the door lines to look right, especially the back doors.

Best o' luck... that would sure be a natural candidate for a diesel..

actually its the front doors that need the mod.the body line has to remain straight back to the rear door, then the rear (uni) door starts the sweep down.i can cut new straight line door pieces from a 64 styleside bed.

Ice, this may be a stretch but have you measured any station wagon doors for a fit. Prolly a wagon out of the 60s. Good luck............

Brian

To make the uni lines work i used uni front doors and made the new rear doors with a modified body line. the bed then followed the same lines of the uni. straight frontt doors will booger up the lines. the line falls about 3/4" all the way front to back.

Jim Frist in york has the crew. contact him through the MAC

The way crown made them was to saw at the front of the B post at the sill and roof and cut the sucker in half. They then just simpilly filled in the open space. The have a complete new roof stamping leaded on top of the old remnants of roof at the rear and jagged cut offs at the front.

Garbz

Well i guess the back is all better and you're tired of working on the house fer a while. Sounds like a good project. Keep us updated on progress.

Lonnie

Garbz wrote:To make the uni lines work i used uni front doors and made the new rear doors with a modified body line. the bed then followed the same lines of the uni. straight frontt doors will booger up the lines. the line falls about 3/4" all the way front to back.

Any pictures of the slick crew cab uni? I'd like to see that!

Garbz wrote:Brian

To make the uni lines work i used uni front doors and made the new rear doors with a modified body line. the bed then followed the same lines of the uni. straight frontt doors will booger up the lines. the line falls about 3/4" all the way front to back.

Jim Frist in york has the crew. contact him through the MAC

The way crown made them was to saw at the front of the B post at the sill and roof and cut the sucker in half. They then just simpilly filled in the open space. The have a complete new roof stamping leaded on top of the old remnants of roof at the rear and jagged cut offs at the front.

Garbz

so i guess my design is a bit different.
i will have 4 full doors, with vent windows, on the rear too.the space between front and rear doors will be roughly 4", below the window line t he upper area will need a fill panel..the hinges on the front of the back doors will be tucked in the cab corner behind the latch mechanism from the front door . the rear floor and cowl section, which is from a big t series and has no hump will be cut vertically right in front of the piece the hinges mount to.then the floor will be cut behind the cab supports, the hinge area tucked in the spot and the floor welded to the backside of the original cab at the rear of the step the tank sits on... this makes the front of the rear door body line at the same height as the front of the front door, hence the straight door.
still on the first cup of coffee so if it doesnt make sense its my explanation.i have measured, looked and given it much thought and its doable or i wouldnt mess with it,if i had a 61-63 wagon roof i would raise roof over bed and " panel van" it,but i dont want to weld 5 slick roofs together.
as a bonus i will end up with 2 unhacked dashes as leftovers from the project, the one from the uni, and the one from the donor floor.

i should probably add that the uni is already cut, at the front roof pillars near the cowl and all the way across the floor behind the seat. it is now a bed and roof only. the donor floor is the matching piece that was rusted out and cut off the uni.because its flat in the front it makes a good back seat floor.
[albumimg]573[/albumimg]
[albumimg]735[/albumimg]

here is a view of the hinge area only, the cut will be the left edge of the pic
[albumimg]1129[/albumimg]

the floor difference, t850 floor and cowl:

[albumimg]574[/albumimg]

Sounds like it's gonna be a looong truck!
Sounds fun, though.

International make crew cabs with the doors the way Ice describes.
You get one big pie-shaped filler in there...
Maybe you can make it a Crown vic!
Or Vista cruiser!!
LOL

JC, thats about the look i will end up with.

suicide rear doors would look cool

Guess noe one ever looked at my old PICS.

Brian...that will work but the front doors will need to be modified to accept the new body line. the door has about 3/4" drop over its width and this would need to be carried over.

Garbz

heres a link for the Super crew I built with uni body lines.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery ... toid=79811

Garbz

Suicide doors and all. [/url]

I looked at it/looked for it on the old site.
It ain't there anymore, and your linky no worky, Dave.
try this
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery ... umid=14917

That, is gonna be the sweetest crewcab ever when Jim git's-er-done.
~The only one I ever wanted for myself.
be even sweeter with a Cummins

For the roof, look at a 61-67 Econoline van. They even have the same "dip" in the middle as a 64-66 truck does.

Dave i looked at those pics of yours long ago.just refreshed my memory.
not going to have the same configuration in that area at all.
spent a bunch of time getting started today, had to remove the gearbox and column from the uni, and took the remaining door off.got out the tape and did some measuring and studying.got a pretty simple plan figured out for attaching the 2 cabs.
as for the doors and bodyline either way you go theres still a mod to get it correct looking.i got lots of doors to play with.

in attaching the 2 cabs the first thing will be to prepare the front of the uni cab.the entire dash and cowl, including the vent area will be cut away.the pillars and hinge area and 4" of cowl remain.the floor will be cut along the inside back edge of the cab support and along the inside of the remaining kickpanel.looking at the front it will now be missing the entire dash and firewall.
the rear of the front cab will then be cut vertically up along the door, leaving the very corner and latch pillar intact up to the bodyline at the top of the door .there will be a 3"wide fill piece here between the doors.at the top of the door we follow the line around to the rear and then up along the window to the top of the roof at the seam.back at the point we turned up we now cut down to the bottom of the rear support , or at the level of the middle of the bottom of the cab back.then all the way across and the other cut by the door.
now in setting the 2nd cab front into the first cab, the part where the rear
door hinges end up directly behind the door latch of the front door, the floor meets up with the rear of the rear cab support and the back edge of the remaining part of the front cab support will butt up against it.there will be a step in this area all the way across where the tank used to be and the bolts are.
the very corner of the back of the roof where it meets the front pillar of the 2nd roof will need to be notched for the pillar, i will do this carefully at the time of installation so as not to overcut.
the roof sectioning and drip edge relocation looks fairly simple, i most likely will add some reinforcement to the roof.

todays measurements:

from the ground to the bottom of the door as it sits with its original single cab 29".yes 29" ground clearance at the door.i have seen lowered trucks with the nose sitting less than that.

outside temperature somewhere around 20.