oxidation

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dwbr
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Location: Pasadena TX

oxidation

Post by dwbr »

sooo,, today, in the garage, decide to pop the hood on ol blue, and i see oxidation on my valve covers , intake,and carb spacer ,, all aluminum, never had this happen before, on the valve covers where there was oil mist no oxidation, what is causing this, is it not being run enough to keep moisture out?,, ive had countless aluminum intakes never seen this before

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Last edited by dwbr on February 7, 2011, 12:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
slick4x4
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Post by slick4x4 »

my guess would be high humidity....
does it sit in a garage or outside ?
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DanSanDiego2000
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Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

If you had it on a trickle charger, then I would say it is gasses/fumes from your battery.

Even if you didn't have it on a charger, I think it is still entirely possible for you battery to have been the culprit.
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

Sitting with the hood shut for extended periods can also trap moisture - even on a concrete floor.
Eastwood has satin & gloss clear coats made specifically to protect aluminum engine parts. Comes in rattle cans too.
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viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

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dwbr
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Post by dwbr »

truck stays in the garage, but its been really humid here last few weeks, garage floor was soaked the other day just from humidity,,,
hasnt been on a trickle charger, usually hood is open, but drove it last week and left it closed, i usually start it once a week at least, even if i dont take it out
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Last edited by dwbr on February 7, 2011, 12:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
sgettin
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Post by sgettin »

dwbr wrote:truck stays in the garage, but its been really humid here last few weeks, garage floor was soaked the other day just from humidity,,,
hasnt been on a trickle charger, usually hood is open, but drove it last week and left it closed, i usually start it once a week at least, even if i dont take it out
crack a couple windows or a door or something on oposite sides of the garage your holding moisture. thats unless the garage is heated, in that crase turn up the thermostat.

also if your garage is anything like my barn the concrete will pull moisture under the right temp/humidy conditions, similar to a cold beer can on a hot day.

and don't keep your hogs in that wet garage in the winter, turn em out or they'll get pneumonia(sp?).
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

dwbr wrote:truck stays in the garage, but its been really humid here last few weeks, garage floor was soaked the other day just from humidity,,,
There would be the culprit. Real PITA to clean that all back up too. Might be worth coating after you get it done.

http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product ... tegory/28/

http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product ... tegory/28/

http://www.eastwood.com/specialty-coati ... n-set.html
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
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Gary Seymour
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Post by Gary Seymour »

Humidity along with a change in temp from cold to warmer will make the water condense on a cold truck. Had this happen on my Galaxie conv. that I stuck in a largely non-insulated metal pole building. It's not only attacking the aluminum. I had my new Magnum 500's all pitted up after season in that pole building. It would have been better for the car to be outside so it could adjust to the air temps. When the garage floor is wet with condensation, it's time to insulate.
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

not surprised, with that super humidity you folks have.
back when i lived down there and worked in the machine shop had to spray all the parts with wd 40 or similar right after doing them or they would start rust or oxidizing by the end of the day.
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Post by motormount1 »

it looks like humidity got to them.
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Michelle
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Post by Michelle »

Most definitely the humidity. I had the same problem when I lived in Houston. Central Texas is much better with less humidity but we still will have a few days like that from time to time. Insulating the garage is the best defense.
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BarnieTrk
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Post by BarnieTrk »

dwbr,
The floor and metal "sweats" or draws condensation because of the temperature difference between its surface and the temperature of the surrounding air. So, if you can insulate or prevent the outside warmer, moist air from coming inside and around the cooler concrete floor and the metal within the garage, no moisture will condense onto the metal which is what causes the oxidation on the un-coated metals.

If you don't stop the moist air infiltrating into the garage space, even if you coat the metal via oil, powdercoat, paint, etc. it will still gather condensation....it just won't oxidize - as long as there is a protective coating on the metal.

The biggest mistake a person can make is to open the doors wide the morning after a cool evening. This allows the warmer, moist, humid, dew-ladened air from outside the garage to rush in onto all the cooler surfaces and cause them to bead up with condensation. Leave the doors & windows closed on those 'nice days'. Plug the cracks. Prevent the outside air from coming into the indoor space. Let the whole place warm up slowly. On warm & humid spring days, if I don't HAVE to go into my garage, I don't....just so I don't open the door even once.

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macgiobuin
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Post by macgiobuin »

Man...I feel like a neglectful parent. Mine just sits out front of the house...not even a car cover. :(
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Post by motormount1 »

get a big fan or do some thing with the ventelation.
sgettin
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Post by sgettin »

it's a mistake to open the doors if you can seal up the garage. if you can't seal up the garage best you can do is crack open a couple doors or windows permanately and get some cross ventilation.

my garage has two overheads and a slider for the tractor so no way it's going to seal up tight. next best thing is cross ventelate it there by keeping the interior contents the same temperature as surrounding air and preventing condensation. unless you can seal up your garage the floor, due to the mass of concrete, will still sweat but ventelation may be your only alternative.
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

That is a shame though - you have a real good looking engine.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
BarnieTrk
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Post by BarnieTrk »

sgettin wrote:it's a mistake to open the doors if you can seal up the garage. if you can't seal up the garage best you can do is crack open a couple doors or windows permanately and get some cross ventilation.

my garage has two overheads and a slider for the tractor so no way it's going to seal up tight. next best thing is cross ventelate it there by keeping the interior contents the same temperature as surrounding air and preventing condensation. unless you can seal up your garage the floor, due to the mass of concrete, will still sweat but ventelation may be your only alternative.
Agreed.

"Area ventilation" can be as simple as a 10" diameter fan sitting on the floor beneath the front license plate and blowing under & towards the rear of your truck.

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sgettin
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Post by sgettin »

i never thought about a fan. would be a good idea in pasadena texas as i bet the number of warm humid days and cool nights is minimal.

sorry to see the damage to your aluminum dwbr. hope you can clean it up.
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