Am I missing anything? EFI 5.0 to a carb in a Slick

Post by **Greg D** » July 29, 2010, 10:24 pm

I need to change to a front sump pan & pickup tube (have one), need to swap timing covers for the mechanical fuel pump, Will need to swap the drive gear on the 79 Duraspark distributor to the right gear for the roller cam, get an intake (I have a 600 Holley here).
Should be about it right?

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » July 29, 2010, 10:29 pm

Not 100% sure you need to change the pan/sump/dipstick setup. the rest sounds right

Post by **Greg D** » July 29, 2010, 10:31 pm

I figured the front sump would be the safest bet with my lowered straight axle. Not real worried about it hitting the axle but the tie rod is another story.
I have a front sump 79 pan, an Explorer pan, and Fox Chassis Mustang pan - should have all the bases covered, lol.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » July 29, 2010, 10:33 pm

Good call.

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » July 29, 2010, 10:37 pm

Looks like you have it just about covered. If you use the carb dipstick, you need to plug the dipstick in the block. I get small freeze plugs from a local machine shop. Make sure you get the right fly wheel, the counter weights are different from roller to non roller.

Post by **Greg D** » July 29, 2010, 10:45 pm

Yep, engine balance is different from 1982 on up with 302s.
My roller cam short block has been just sitting for over a year - I haven't even looked at it probably a year. I went and got it tonight (wasn't stored here) and it still looks great (I was worried it may have rusted in the cylinders).
I was wanting something a little more "out of the box" to put in this truck but I have this and no $ to buy an engine.
On the upside when I add PS, A/C later at least the brackets etc. will be easy.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » July 29, 2010, 10:51 pm

Greg D wrote:I figured the front sump would be the safest bet with my lowered straight axle. Not real worried about it hitting the axle but the tie rod is another story.
I have a front sump 79 pan, an Explorer pan, and Fox Chassis Mustang pan - should have all the bases covered, lol.

Hey Greg, How about one of the 9 quart big truck pans. I was told by another member they would work on our 61 to 66 trucks.

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » July 29, 2010, 10:54 pm

Actually not all 5.0s are rollers. There are different diameter fly wheels too...

Post by **Greg D** » July 29, 2010, 10:56 pm

As it is now I am putting together a batch of good used engine parts to come up with a driveline.
I will start another Windsor for this truck pretty soon with the intake, cam etc that I really want - I'll get a bigger pan for that one but I'll still have to watch it. Truck is pretty low.

edselcomet · Post by **edselcomet** » July 29, 2010, 11:24 pm

what is the difference in the distributor gears ?

bluebolt · Post by **bluebolt** » July 30, 2010, 12:12 am

edselcomet wrote:what is the difference in the distributor gears ?

The gear is hardened for use with the steel roller cam. Use a regular gear with it and you will have an oil filter full of metal shavings.

bluebolt · Post by **bluebolt** » July 30, 2010, 12:15 am

Greg don't forget you need a fuel pump eccentric as well.

PFM-64f100 · Post by **PFM-64f100** » July 30, 2010, 7:40 am

Heck with all those changes it would be eaiser to keep the EFI... Probley cost the same with a new EFI harness

The Big M · Post by **The Big M** » July 30, 2010, 10:10 am

Greg D wrote:I figured the front sump would be the safest bet with my lowered straight axle. Not real worried about it hitting the axle but the tie rod is another story.
I have a front sump 79 pan, an Explorer pan, and Fox Chassis Mustang pan - should have all the bases covered, lol.

Are any of those dual sump? The Fox one is, correct? The Crown Vic oil pans have two drain plugs with a larger sump at the rear and a shallower one up front. I'm not sure if they're dimensionally different than any of the ones you mentioned, but a visual comparison between it and the pan on my 223 would seem to indicate that the axle clearance would be vastly improved, depending on how the 5.0 was mounted.

What have you got for pulleys? That's primarily where people run into trouble. Other than that it sounds like you've got it figured.

61 Merc · Post by **61 Merc** » July 30, 2010, 1:30 pm

Greg go with an electric fuel pump and then you won't need to replace the timing cover for a mechanical setup. And I agree with Chris, go EFI.

Dean

Post by **Greg D** » July 30, 2010, 6:01 pm

The only EFI stuff I have here is a GT 40 lower intake and set of orange top injectors. I have a carbed setup in mind that I want on this truck in the future that has a serious cool factor so I will stay that way. I could also go with an electric fuel pump for a carb and a pressure regulator. I have all the pieces here to convert it to a mechanical fuel pump though.

oldtrucks · Post by **oldtrucks** » July 30, 2010, 6:57 pm

Greg
If the EFI engine had a serpentine belt you need to change water pumps too. Rotation on a serpentine pump is opposite that of a V belt pump. I did the same thing to an EFI engine I put in the Bronco. If you are changing the front cover I would put the fuel pump eccentric on and use a mechanical pump. I'm using an electric pump and wish I'd have changed to a mechanical.

oldtrucks · Post by **oldtrucks** » July 30, 2010, 7:03 pm

I have all the upper intake stuff from 2 engines one is from the 86 Bronco and the other is from a 91 T Bird HO if any one is interested I'll post some pictures. Otherwise I'm going to salvage them out.

TxSlick66 · Post by **TxSlick66** » August 7, 2010, 6:08 pm

To plug the dipstick hole in the driver side of the block, I tap the hole for a 1/8" pipe thread and then stick a pipe plug in there. A freeze plug works, also. So does plain old RTV if you clean it real good first.

Post by **Greg D** » August 8, 2010, 12:11 am

Already swapped on the standard rotation timing cover Mike, reverse rotation pump won't fit the early timing cover. Get the rest of my engine parts in the morning.