After months of work I have a clean dependable driver.......
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65TremecGT
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unibodynewbie
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Truck
Killer truck. I was wondering what all the gauges were in the dash and beside the tach?
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Thunderboy
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Re: After months of work I have a clean dependable driver...
[quote="SLICKER"]New Ford 300 six with Offenhauser DP intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, Pertronix Ignition, Hilborne air cleaner, EFI split manifolds, dual exhaust. DJM lowering I Beams, Power Disc Brakes, Power Steering, Ford 9" with 3.50 gearing and LOTS more...

You say you used the DJM lowering I Beams?
How much lower did you get?
Did you have any assembly issues with them?
Did the disc brakes mount okay to them?
What did you use to lower the rear of the truck?
Thanks!

You say you used the DJM lowering I Beams?
How much lower did you get?
Did you have any assembly issues with them?
Did the disc brakes mount okay to them?
What did you use to lower the rear of the truck?
Thanks!
Steve F
1965 Mustang Coupe
1966 F-100 Shortbed CC/Ranger
2010 Mustang GT Convertible
2010 Shelby GT500 Convertible
1965 Mustang Coupe
1966 F-100 Shortbed CC/Ranger
2010 Mustang GT Convertible
2010 Shelby GT500 Convertible
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63BIGWINDOW
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- Location: FtWorth,Tx
- slickmainer
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- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

The Trans is a T18 4 speed, the oil and volt gauges in the dash are the larger 2 7/8 Stewart Warner gauges, the tach is a Sunpro and the gauge next to it is a Vacuum gauge which is the best way to test all engine functions, many people don't understand the usefulness of the vacuum gauge, it can tell you if you have a blown head gasket or vacuum leak, you use it to set your carbs air idle mixture so it is perfect for your engine, you can use it to set you timing and to tell if you have burnt valves and lots more, they are easy to use and understand. Here is a useful site on how to use and interpet a vacuum gauge and what they do, when you get there scroll to the bottom of the page and click on the green scenerio buttons and watch the gauge to see how you can check for issues.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm


Re: After months of work I have a clean dependable driver...
Yes I used the DJM I_Beams and also their rear shackle kit, on the rear I had to reclock the shock brackets and use shorter shocks, the same DJM I beams are used in all the f100/F150 trucks from 65 to 1979, just the rear shackle kit is different because in 73 ford widened their frames and put wider leaf springs in. The disc brakes fit with no issues, mine are off a 78 truck, the I beams were pretty much bolt on but I do recommend putting in new king pins since you will have to have them apart for the install. I don't really like the tie rod relocators that come with the I beams but hear they are better than what others produce. In all honesty if I had to do it over I would do the Crown Vic conversion, it would be cheaper, ride and handle better, give you disc brakes and lowers the truck to the perfect height without additional work and money. You can use the crown vic rear end and have nice hiway gearing and it opens the door for endless wheel possibilities since it has a newer style lug pattern. a good used Police crown vic can be had for $800 if it doesn't run and the conversion is pretty straight forward.MY OL 66 wrote:SLICKER wrote:New Ford 300 six with Offenhauser DP intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, Pertronix Ignition, Hilborne air cleaner, EFI split manifolds, dual exhaust. DJM lowering I Beams, Power Disc Brakes, Power Steering, Ford 9" with 3.50 gearing and LOTS more...
You say you used the DJM lowering I Beams?
How much lower did you get?
Did you have any assembly issues with them?
Did the disc brakes mount okay to them?
What did you use to lower the rear of the truck?
Thanks!

- "Whitey Ford"
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64shortbed
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- Location: Paso Robles, Ca

