Finally getting around to swapping my roof and need tips

61ford · Post by **61ford** » November 11, 2010, 8:24 pm

im finally getting to swapping out my roof and i started measuring and how do you get it to work out to make a straight line thru the b pillar. i started at 8 5/8 at the back window and measured 8 5/8 at the door and that side must lean back some bc 8 5/8 is lower at the door than back window. i took a piece of tape and thought i could come off the back window and make a straight line that way and that didnt work? any suggestions

Post by **Greg D** » November 11, 2010, 8:34 pm

There was an episode of "Muscle Car" on Horsepower TV where they swapped a roof on a Buick - same idea and some good hints. I am sure you can finds it on line (I think I posted it here once quite awile ago?).
I personally would leave the inside corner pieces intact either in the new roof or on the old pillars and just drill out the spot welds. If you haven't yet removed the glass it and it's seal will help line things up (I have a corner to replace on the 64 and will do this).
You could use the factory seams and starting pints for the measurements also - better than trying to find the center of a curved section. Making a card template from the seam to the cut will help too - better than trying to use a tape measure.
No matter what you do you won't get it perfect on the first try - going to take some patience.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » November 12, 2010, 12:49 pm

I would make the swap using the original seam lines, although I saw one that was changed and not all the original roof was removed along the front. They just put the new roof over the old one ou don't say why you are replacing the roof, so I'm asking if it is becaus of roof damage or rust? If because of damage of someone standing on it( quite common ) then I would be concerned about the centersd brace being pushed down when damage was done.

Rich

61ford · Post by **61ford** » November 12, 2010, 8:12 pm

replacing bc of rust. but heres the problem i found tonite the window is in a different placement between a uni and the 64 cab its coming off of. meaning theres more metal at the top on the 64 but ive seen 64 roofs on unis so im trying to figure out how this is all gonna work looks like im going to have to cut it underneath the window and place the whole 64 top on it which id rather not do bc of distorision when welding

jecsd1 · Post by **jecsd1** » November 12, 2010, 8:22 pm

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... =roof+swap

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... =roof+swap

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... =roof+swap

61ford · Post by **61ford** » November 12, 2010, 8:28 pm

you got any pics of how you ended up fixing it?

jecsd1 · Post by **jecsd1** » November 13, 2010, 11:06 am

I ended cutting around the rear window frame on the top. You are correct. There was some variation in the placement of the rear window. The uni's are set higher. Cut around it and take your time welding and you wont warp it

61ford · Post by **61ford** » November 13, 2010, 4:02 pm

i looked at it today looks like ill have to cut em both there where they sit down on the back of the cab and weld all the way across the back looks like alot of fun

Post by **Greg D** » November 13, 2010, 4:33 pm

I forgot you have a Uni.
The replacement roof is from a Uni also?
If so that's what I would do, cut it off just above the bed rail/roof seam, drill out the spot welds and clamp/rosette weld the new one back on.
Cut reweld the A pillar at the factory seam.
I'd leave the doors on in this case so you can match the gap at the top just to double check.

61ford · Post by **61ford** » November 13, 2010, 4:57 pm

no the replacement roof is from a 64 thats why i got the window/ b pillar prob and ive gotta go atleast thru the window just above my window is where all my problems are it was rusted out and i didnt know how to weld plus using flux core i distorted it pretty bad