Engine Swap- 460 in a 66 questions

Santi · Post by **Santi** » March 20, 2011, 10:09 pm

As a mock up I attempted to mount my 460 motor in my 66 with out headers or anything for now. With the new motor mounts installed where the old motor mounts were installed, the motor was facing too far to the left (or passenger side). I then took the motor mounts off the frame and line it up with the mounts on the motor. I then found that the motor mount on left had to be bolted up to the rear two holes on frame and it lined up correctly. I asked this in the chat room but I have a few more questions as well as some of you that have done this probably were not in chat.

Question 1: Is the above issue normal to bolt to rear holes on frame? See picture below.

Question 2: If using the front sump oil pan, is the plug suppose to sit right over the main crossmember?

Question 3: Is the Oil Pan suppose to sit that close to main crossmember? See Pic

Question 4: Are headers going to clear the steering gear box that close to each other? I've heard of after market ones to use but it still seems real close.

Thanks for all the help

Santi

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » March 20, 2011, 10:35 pm

Header for a 73-79 should work. They only list them for a 73-79 because thats the years that the 460 came in that they will fit. But the front ends a basicly the same back through 65.

The mounts look like they are in the right spot.

A rear sump pan will move the drain plug to a better spot. I just bent up a little custom pan/funnel for when I did my oil changes. It made the oil run to the front of the x-member, and it hellped with the clean up.

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » March 21, 2011, 4:58 am

Id have to look but I think a truck pan drain is in a different spot then a car.

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » March 21, 2011, 6:08 am

The placement of your engine is exactly correct, just like mine. The oil pan used up through '79 is the same as the car pan just like you have it, and it is a snug fit.
I didn't use headers, though, so I cannot speak to that issue.
You may want to consider getting a later oil pan, used in the '80s. It will put the plug further back, over the steering linkage making it cleaner and easier to use.
However, you will have to make several changes, but they are all easy. You will need to change the oil pump and pickup tube because the sump is different. You will also need the main cap bolt that supports the pickup tube. Finally, you will need the external dipstick and dipstick tube that screw into the side of the pan. Here are the parts you will need:
'80s era oil pan
Oil pump
Pickup tube
Cap bolt (and nut)
Dipstick and tube
Here is an E-bay link to the type of pan: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0445334235

Hope this helps.

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 21, 2011, 9:30 am

Banjo, a car pan is not the same as a truck pan. The car pan will fit but is tighter than a truck pan. The car pan has the drain plug on the side of the sump and a truck pan has the drain at the back corner of the sump. The car pan is also just a hair deeper. That two inches difference in plug location makes life miserable! Hawkrod

Truck pan:

Car pan:

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » March 21, 2011, 9:35 am

Well, my goodness. Thanks for the correction, Tom. I sure thought they were the same, and had been told that by several who know a lot more than I do about 385s!
I think though, the parts list I posted is correct for the later pan. Could you confirm?
Thanks!

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 21, 2011, 10:18 am

It looks correct except you may not need the oil pump. It depends on which style you have already. There are basically two, one with a pressed on pickup and one with a bolt on pickup. I think all the early car ones are pressed on but it has been years since I had one so I am not sure. I do have a car pan in one of my F350's and am changing it to a truck pan but haven't gotten around to it, the drain plug is actually touching the crossmember! I have to pull the motor mount bolt and lift the engine a bit to change oil. Hawkrod

Santi · Post by **Santi** » March 21, 2011, 10:59 am

Well thanks for all the input and help on this. I thought I was doing something wrong. Guess I really should have looked in to this deeper before I bought the new pan because now I'm stuck with the one I got as the return policy has passed

Don't know if its worth getting a rear sump or just leave what I got.

Again, thanks for all the help and I'll be back with plenty more questions as I move forward.

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 21, 2011, 11:54 am

Santi wrote:Well thanks for all the input and help on this. I thought I was doing something wrong. Guess I really should have looked in to this deeper before I bought the new pan because now I'm stuck with the one I got as the return policy has passed

Don't know if its worth getting a rear sump or just leave what I got.

Again, thanks for all the help and I'll be back with plenty more questions as I move forward.

Be aware that the pan is not a killer issue and they were tight and Ford built them that way. I am not sure which style pan you have but as long as you can get the plug out then you have no problem. Hawkrod

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » March 21, 2011, 6:44 pm

my truck pan drain plug is in the rear of the pan. It is also longer than a car pan and holds 6 quarts of oil with filter. Discovered the longer part when I tried to stick the 460 in a galaxie.

William-in-St George · March 22, 2011, 10:56 pm

Nother possible issue is the dipstick placement. Really, I'd use the truck or van rear sump pan. This gets you a plug that is accessable, dipstick in the right place and some of the rear sump pans hold a bit more oil. After any build there are always parts that were purchased and not needed. You can sell them here or on e-bay. That engine offset to the right has surprised many. Check out the nine inch and now you can see why the axles are different length. You are wise using a 460/C6 in your 66. These are a bolt in deal using 100% Ford parts.

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 23, 2011, 9:21 am

The dispstick is not an issue with a front sump pan. It goes in the top of the timing cover and is actually quite convenient. Hawkrod

William-in-St George · Post by **William-in-St George** » March 23, 2011, 9:56 am

Couple more things to consider: If your C6 has the reinforcement webs at the top you may need to grind the center ones a bit lower and clearence the floor above the transmission (BFH). The shift pattern will require a truck shift shaft if you ues the column shifter. E-bay seller has a nice set of cables for the accelerator and kickdown (LoKar knockoff). 50 bucks or so. Use a big drive shaft from a van and have it shortened to fit. I like the accessory brackets from the 83 or so vans. Provide a nice place for the PS, AC and double sheave pullies for the fan. Early model low mount alternator brackets work really well and you can snag these off ebay or you may already have a set. I do not use headers. Truck or Van exhaust manifolds work perfectly for a street application. Edelbrock intake and carburetor work nicley and clean up the engine. I am sure there is more but post back with Q's.

Santi · Post by **Santi** » March 23, 2011, 10:50 am

Will the following work for my C6 in the truck?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lokar-KD ... ccessories

Thanks again for all the help with this.

William-in-St George · Post by **William-in-St George** » March 23, 2011, 7:56 pm

Short answer is yes, But! cheaper versions of he same are available that include the accelerator cable and all the brackets and springs. I paid about 50 bucks for the whole deal off e-bay. Or if you have the Ford kickdown rod and an adapter you can use that and save some bank. I don't like the Ford accelerator cable and brackets so I use a cable directly through the firewall. Nice and clean. I adapt the accelerator cable to the accelerator linkage in the cab, pass it through a small hole I drill in the firewall and connect it up at the carb. Really simple and clean. Most hotrods have the same setup both for accelerator and kick down. I plate and plug all extra holes in the firewall. Keep it simple! LoKar has great products but I thought I'd tell you that cheaper knockoff stuff is available.

William-in-St George · Post by **William-in-St George** » March 23, 2011, 8:32 pm

Check e-bay for Ford throttle cable bracket springs C6 kickdown kit 49.00 bucks. Decent quality kit! Sorry I don't know how to post the link.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » March 23, 2011, 8:55 pm

William-in-St George wrote:Short answer is yes, But! cheaper versions of he same are available that include the accelerator cable and all the brackets and springs. I paid about 50 bucks for the whole deal off e-bay. Or if you have the Ford kickdown rod and an adapter you can use that and save some bank. I don't like the Ford accelerator cable and brackets so I use a cable directly through the firewall. Nice and clean. I adapt the accelerator cable to the accelerator linkage in the cab, pass it through a small hole I drill in the firewall and connect it up at the carb. Really simple and clean. Most hotrods have the same setup both for accelerator and kick down. I plate and plug all extra holes in the firewall. Keep it simple! LoKar has great products but I thought I'd tell you that cheaper knockoff stuff is available.

Same here. The "Brand" is "Like Lokar"

Quality is good. I have used the same cable on 3 different builds now.

STOFFER · Post by **STOFFER** » March 24, 2011, 4:10 pm

what motor mounts are ya'll using for the 460/429 blocks???

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » March 24, 2011, 4:41 pm

Stoffer, use the '73 - '79 factory 460 mounts in a '65 or later truck. The holes are already in the frame, and they correctly position the engine and the transmission for all the popular upgrades - including the factory serpentine belts from '88 or so forward.
I know Hawkrod sells them, and maybe Tom at Flashback F-100s too.

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 24, 2011, 7:32 pm

Funny Banjo, I appreciate the business but amazingly enough I have not had any for a while UNTIL today! Yup, got three complete sets today along with another three speed power steering steering column and a 79 F250 4X4 power steering box! It was a great day hitting the yeards! Hawkrod

Engine Swap- 460 in a 66 questions

Engine Swap- 460 in a 66 questions

Oil Pan

460/C6

Will this work?

Re: Will this work?