Here are a few pics of a Crown Vic front clip we are installing.........
We made these brackets to replace the stock units.
You can see we narrowed the frame four inches........
This meant we also narrowed the CV clip four inches too.
I can assume you narrowed the crossmember to narrow the track, right? Did you also shorten the R&P? What engine are you using? I'm guessing it won't be a 4.6 or 5.4 since the built-in motor mounts on the crossmember will no longer fit.
Looks like really nice work. Just curious about the details...
Thanks.
First very nice work. I had purchased a CV unit a couple of years ago and scrapped the idea of the swap after fitting it in place and seeing that it was simply to wide for my plans. At that time I thought of narrowing the unit and found a welder that assured me he could weld the cast aliuminuim. I posted the idea and was told by a so called expert that was previously on this forum that it simply could not be done and would not work. Glad to see someone think outside the box and execute on it nice work. I went with an after market set up but still thought about the CV narrowing often, I educated myself by reading up on the geometry of a front end and I see no reason why this will not work very well. Keep us posted. Thanks
Looks great Ctom, could you just notch the chassis to fit in between the cross member instead of making a new front end?, not questioning your method!, just we can`t just rebuild the front of the chassis, is must stay basically as it was!.
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Nice to see you are working on that.. Looks like we have same brands for those ford truck parts in that installation? I just taught. seeing those parts..
That is interesting. Not sure why you went to all the trouble to narrow the crossmember width.. how do you make the steering rams shorter? did you cut the steering arms?
In that case I too am curious about your welding methods.... that would never pass muster around here. Big nono to weld on steering parts
It's a race.. Will hell freeze over or will JC finish his truck first. Stay tuned..
jamesdfo wrote:What alloy of aluminum is the crossmember made of? What weld procedure did you you when you narrowed it?
Thanks!
James
We do a lot of aluminum welding here, but we did have to make an educated guess re the aluminum alloy. After we cut the 4 inches out we cut the extra piece and re welded them and did some extreme testing on it. We also installed plates on the top and sides of the cross member. I feel this is going to work fine.
randyr wrote:I can assume you narrowed the crossmember to narrow the track, right? Did you also shorten the R&P? What engine are you using? I'm guessing it won't be a 4.6 or 5.4 since the built-in motor mounts on the crossmember will no longer fit.
Looks like really nice work. Just curious about the details...
Thanks.
Yes, you must narrow the rack ass'y and not just the tierods. If you look close you can see the welds on the rack. We have a 460 lined up for the install.
I'm sure you could find a rack ass'y the right size but we like doing it our self.
Alan Mclennan wrote:Looks great Ctom, could you just notch the chassis to fit in between the cross member instead of making a new front end?, not questioning your method!, just we can`t just rebuild the front of the chassis, is must stay basically as it was!.
We had to build the frame anyway so why not make it fit the new front end.
Glad you guys like it, we have other projects to do but we will get back to the truck soon.
As an extra precaution if you are not comfortable with the aluminum welding I thought about welding in a peice of stock from frame rail to frame rail and using the motor mounts holes and bolting the cross member to it. This would also give you a base to weld in motor mounts. I forget the alloy my welder said the cross member was made from but he was very confident that it would weld and be strong. He welds prostock, and nascar chassis so he has much experience.
What was the 8.8 you used out of? Looks like you may have cut down the axles/housing to match the front?
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
Great job. You can tell by the quality of the work, everythings been well thought out. I'm a fabricator too and like you wouldn't think twice about the aluminum welds. Maybe if you never welded alum. before, I'd be concerned. Anybody who ever shortened a stock steering column to fit a power steering box is relying on welds too. beautiful work there, keep the pic coming.
Charlie
62' SWB uni 223
66' F-100 Short/wide 352
78' F-350 dually dumpbed 400
12' F-150 5.0 3:73 LS
Very nice work CTom, I very much like the way you narrowed the rear frame rails to keep the rear coil overs outside the frame rails. The truck should be a dream to drive.
Mike Kincheloe
Mikes Old Trucks
I restore old trucks and cars
1962 UNI Short Box, Stock Y block, 4 speed
1972 F 250 4X4 429 4 speed Dana 70 rear
1977 F 350 Camper Special, Ranger, Super Cab
1950 F7 Cab and Chassis
1976 F150 4 Speed 4 X 4
1996 Taurus