Repair cab mounts on or off frame

[norville]

Hello all, It's been some time since I've posted here. I recently picked up a 60 f250, and of course it need s a little bit of work. I'm almost in over my head but not yet. The floor / cab / braces ect... are all toast on this cab. The rest of the truck is solid. PO replaced the floor and used wooden blocks to make up the difference in the floor. The door align good enough and I think I can get them within eyeball spec by adjusting the radiator support and front fenders..

Here's the big question, Do I try to fix it on the frame or do I need to pull it or lastly can I unbolt the bed and tip it on it's back? I only have 1/2 of the garage to work with. And it will mostly be just me working on it. I'm not making a show truck , just a presentable driver. I did not even plan to fix the dents just the rot. I did look for another cab, there's a junk yard next to me with three pickups and a panel van of the same generation. But living in the north east they are all about the same.. I've sent out some PM's to some folks in the mid west with clean cabs but I'm not sure if I can afford to ship them here..

Please hit me with options. I'm liking the cab tipping the best but I'm borderline lazy... I'll post up some pics as soon as they are approved by the admin.

thanks
bob

[norville]

pics

[thenephilm]

I would do it with the cab off if possible as it will be easier to do it with the cab on its back.

[jkimbrel65]

I would do it with the cab off if possible as it will be easier to do it with the cab on its back.

X2

Mike

[fathead]

I tipped the cab on my 63 in a 1 1/2 car garage. It made the job much easier and didn't require much space. Just place a couple of 2x4's across the frame rails for support and roll the cab over backwards on to the 2x4's . Worked great for me.

[norville]

I tipped the cab on my 63 in a 1 1/2 car garage. It made the job much easier and didn't require much space. Just place a couple of 2x4's across the frame rails for support and roll the cab over backwards on to the 2x4's . Worked great for me.

That's what I was looking for...

thanks

[fathead]

You're welcome and good luck with your project

[norville]

Well I think I just found a better body and frame , minus the motor. About the same amount of work to get it on the road , but I think I'll have a much more solid truck when I'm finished.

May I ask if it is worth the effort/$$ to fix the floors in my truck? The truck I found needs no rust repairs to speak of and I would just need to drop in my motor and tranny. But it's not free. $2000 and I have to go get it.

I pulled the bed off my truck and I found two spots where the bed meets the frame that need attention. My cab will need cab corners inside and outside. front cab braces and rear braces. Really I'm thinking I need the replace the whole floor. The rear of the cab and doors are good. But they will need the be striped. PO put on some type of thick gooey textured paint. \\I was just thinking of starting fresh and taking a loss on the whole project. I'm not a body man but I do weld and I can get by.

The new truck is all original, I would not need to do much except swap in dual master, and my drivetrain. This will not be a simple drop in but I'm hoping I can rob everything I need from the old truck.

My truck; after I repair the floors($500) I will need a seat ($150) steering column and steering parts($300) Gauges($200) The bed is good but the floor is beat and PO screwed wood in there that will also need a few repairs. The rear has 4.88's so I need to do something about that. ($150) And the radiator support need a little repair. This is not taking into account any of the other items I find when stripping it further. I can see some fiberglass repairs also. Keep in mind the rest of the front clip is in really good shape fenders ect.. I will also need to paint it with something. Around ($200) in a yard job. That's at least $1500 to make the truck closer to what I want.



is it worth saving? If so do I replace the floor from the top or bottom?

[jamesdfo]

Norville: It all comes down to which you have more of? time or $$ Bottom line is starting with the nicest one you can afford will almost always get you back on the road quicker,then you can be out enjoying it rather than out working on it.....

James

[wheels]

Northeast is fairlyclose to me maybe we can work together on parts. At this time I am looking for a running 292.

[norville]

Northeast is fairlyclose to me maybe we can work together on parts. At this time I am looking for a running 292.

Let me know what you find... I know the junk yard near me will have a few but i doubt any are worth the effort. mostly just cores. Maybe we could split shipping if something comes up.

bob

[norville]

Northeast is fairlyclose to me maybe we can work together on parts. At this time I am looking for a running 292.

how close to Ohio are you? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... light=f100

[wheels]

I am about a hour from the Ohio line 2.5 fom Cleveland. Any idea what a core is worth found a 292 froze but complete starter to carb.

[norville]

Depends, anywhere from $75 to 250. Not many in there are complete. I'm heading out on tuesday. I'll let you know if I find something. there's lots FE's in there...

bob