Choke stove question....

[DSTdrummer]

Hey fellas. New here, first post.
I've been messing with carbs for a while, (mostly when I was younger), but never really a choke setup. I've learned a ton since getting this truck though. I've been working on bikes as of late. I found my first four wheeled project, a '66 F250, and I'm just basically getting it on the road to drive till summer when I can start tearing it down to restore. It has a '61 390 2V, and I have figured out how these hot air chokes work as well as where mine hooks up in the two holes in passenger side exhaust minifold, (which have tubing broke off in them), also to the passage through the air horn, and how it does what it does.
So here's my question, prolly the first of many. Are the lines just pressed in to the holes? With there being boken tube pieces in them, it will need drilled out, but I didn't know if its just a matter of getting the pieces out and pressing new tube in or what.

Thanks in advance, and in have gained a wealth of knowlage in the short time I've been reading here.
Donnie

[Brians1966]

Morning Donnie
A one time they made a repair kit for those lines- Been awhile but I will check the books today at work and see if it is still available. The other thing we did was drill out the holes and tap in new lines- we used brake line to repair them.
I will get back to you this evening with any info.

[DSTdrummer]

Yeah. I thought about tapping them, but I wasn't sure if they were originally tapped on not. I may just take that manifold off and make sure everything is cleared out in there and deal with it on the bench.
Donnie

[Brians1966]

Donnie
Doreman/Help still offers the repair kit we used some 30 years ago in my dads shop.
Part number 76850 cost about $9 to $10 dollars-
Tap in the connector into the manifold and run the tubes-

[DSTdrummer]

Thanks a bunch. I have seen the dorman kit. That was before I figured out how this thing actually hooked up. I was thinking it was the larger threaded hole in the diver side manifold. I bought tubing and compression fittings and was trying to use what I bought for that application and was just going to try and make what I have work now that I see where it really goes. Prolly easier to just get the kit and start over.

[bobenhotep]

I did mine with brake lines. I also insulated it with a wood stove door seal I bought at home depot for 7 bucks.

[DSTdrummer]

I did mine with brake lines. I also insulated it with a wood stove door seal I bought at home depot for 7 bucks.

Door seal? Wow. I never thought of that.
I have enough brake line here. I bought 3/16 cuz that's what was on there. It steps up to 1/4 at the choke but I'll figure something out. It's not brain surgery. HAHAHAHA.

[bobenhotep]

You can buy one there and the brake line will slide right through the middle of the seal. it is a lot thicker and more robust than the insulators they sell for choke tubes. You will have several feet left for another job, too. I will see if I have pictures. Does anyone know if you can link pictures from pinterest to here?

[DSTdrummer]

You can buy one there and the brake line will slide right through the middle of the seal. it is a lot thicker and more robust than the insulators they sell for choke tubes. You will have several feet left for another job, too. I will see if I have pictures. Does anyone know if you can link pictures from pinterest to here?

Can you post pics of where the tubes go in to the manifold? Mine is not the type with the large through hole. It has the two small holes side by side on top passenger side with the passage and a plate covering it on the engine side of the manifold.
Thanks again fellas.
Donnie

[bobenhotep]

I have a 300 in mine, so it might not help much.

[DSTdrummer]

I have a 300 in mine, so it might not help much.

Gotcha. I'm just gonna fab up a manual I think. The original cable is there and knob is still in the dash.

[DSTdrummer]

So while pondering, tinkering, and ultimately hooking up the manual choke, as well as dealing with shipping delays on parts from LMC due to snow in Kansas, I rebuilt the carb and put it back on.
Went out to cold start in roughly 30°, wouldn't start. Fiddled with choke knob in and out. Ended up starting with no choke at all. Runs great, warms up, idles great, no hesitation or rich/lean issues.
Weird
Thanks again guys.
Donnie

[Hawkrod]

Just a quick note to help anybody who needs it, the two holes in the manifold are in and out for the choke air. Normally the carb will have two fittings, one on the choke and on in the air horn area. The choke has a built in vacuum leak, when it is on, which draws air through the tube into the choke from the air horn. It does not actually matter which is which as all it is doing is drawing air through a sealed chamber in the manifold so that the air to the choke is heated. When the air to the choke is heated enough it moves the bi-metallic spring which turns the choke off. If the hole in your manifold looks like it 1/8 or less then the old tube is probably still in the hole. The tube does not have to be too tight in the hole and when they were new they simply pushed in by hand. Because the tube does not need to be air tight in the manifold, there is no reason to drill and tap it, just drill it just large enough for the new tube to fit in the hole. Also note that inside the hole, on some manifolds, may be aluminum wadding. Do not drill more than about 3/8-1/2 in or you may catch the wadding and ruin it. The wadding is to transfer heat to the air being drawn through it. Hawkrod