MadMaxetc's 1963 Build

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » January 27, 2013, 9:51 am

I am going to go with this setup. I think I will go black, not chrome.

http://www.marchperf.com/styletrack_460.html

I will measure today and see if I need to notch the fenders.

jkimbrel65 · Post by **jkimbrel65** » January 27, 2013, 9:54 am

Nice setup.With that option you will be fine.

Mike

Max · Post by **Max** » January 28, 2013, 8:04 pm

I have their same set-up on my 351w.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » June 22, 2013, 4:14 pm

Got some work done on the bed over the last 2 weeks. Everything in white primer is done.

The top rail is done and ready for a skim coat. the back seal is filled and the long bed seam is started.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 2, 2013, 7:08 pm

Well it has been a while, but I finally did something.

Made a TKO-000WG.

It will take 0ft-lbs of torque and is made of wood in my garage.

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » September 2, 2013, 7:18 pm

I'm not sure, Dan, but I believe it is capable of slightly more than your rated torque.
Would I be way off if I thought this has to do with prime real estate and improvements?
BTW, a little off topic, but my C600 had Gunite front hubs!
Paul

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 2, 2013, 10:29 pm

No input shaft = no torque!

built it because I need it to make sure I can run exhaust and check for shifter location.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 4, 2013, 10:18 pm

So I am thinking of using a bump front bumper as my rear bumper. Shorten and french it in on the sides like my new F-150.

1965fordf100 · Post by **1965fordf100** » September 4, 2013, 11:55 pm

Great idea, Dan! Can't wait to see how it turns out

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 11, 2013, 9:47 pm

I got my mock-up in tonight. I did have to cut out the floor. Over an inch of interference.

rickairmedic · Post by **rickairmedic** » September 12, 2013, 12:34 am

Looks like someone is gonna be fabbing a custom tranny hump in the future

.

Rick

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 28, 2013, 8:36 pm

So I started to rebuild my differential today.

Detroit True-Trac LSD, Richmond EXCel 3.70:1 Gears, Richmond rebuild kit, and one very dirty and worn out '76 9" carrier.

It took most of the morning to disassemble and clean up old parts.

I was half way trough installing the pinion bearings, but my bottle jack for my shop press went out.

So I figured I would just drive in the last .1" that was left when I torqued the crush sleeve down. But I can't get the damn crush sleeve to CRUSH! Mother F!

I will get a new jack tomorrow and take it apart. I will start the "pre-crush" with the press and then finish it with the nut.

I finished the day by installing the ring gear.... that was just as much fun. I used the bolts to draw the gear in, but the bolts were to long. So I had to re-use the old bolts. I ground them down just a tad just to make sure they didn't bottom out.

Today did not go to plan, but I did make headway.

rickairmedic · Post by **rickairmedic** » September 28, 2013, 9:48 pm

Well if it makes you feel any better I went to put new front pads on the E250 today . Simple quick job no problem Yeah Right

. Pulled the passenger side caliper and the line snapped . Back to the parts store got both front lines came back put the line on the passenger side and bled it in the dark guess I'll do the drivers side in the morning

.

Rick

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 29, 2013, 6:52 pm

Well I got it together.

The crush sleeve from the was made from un-crush-ubtainium.

I took it back apart and put just the crush sleeve in between 2 plates on the press. I pumped on the 12ton jack until it wouldn't budge...the crush sleeve didn't budge ether.

After reading a lot of

on the internet about cruch sleeve vs. solid sleeve, I decided to look at the old crush sleeve.

I measured the free play that I had left on the assembly: .114"
I then measured the old crush sleeve: .101" shorter than the new one.
So I still had ruffly .013" of "crush" left.

I assembled it with the old crush sleeve. I didn't use the press because I didn't want to go to far. So I used a tube and a small hammer so I could "feel" when I reached solid stack-up. It worked!

.011 if play! I torqued the nut a bit and got it to 22in-lb of running torque. BOOM! Now I could move on to setting the pattern.

I started with a new shim the same thickness of the one that came out. .018" I set the backlash at .010". I didn't have a Spanner wrench, so I made one.

The .018" shim got me this:
Coast Side - Drive Side

Backlash looked ok because the contact was centered side-to-side. Shim was all wrong.

.015" shim:
Coast Side - Drive Side

One more time with a .010" shim:
Coast Side - Drive Side

I rechecked the backlash... .010"

You can see how they match up in this picture... well sort of.

I think it looks good, but this is the first one I have ever done, so what do I know!

I spray bombed it with Silver paint so the parts will be shiny when it explodes on the road!

1965fordf100 · Post by **1965fordf100** » September 30, 2013, 11:31 am

Nice job Dan! I'm terrified of doing that job...same with transmissions!

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » October 9, 2013, 9:14 pm

I got the rear end housing painted tonight. Feels good to do something permanent to the truck.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » October 20, 2013, 7:06 pm

Well she is all buttoned up and ready for final installation!

Can you tell I like the Red, Black, and Silver?

I used the Poly-Armor brake line for the first time. AND I LIKE IT! Very easy to flair and easy to bend. When you flair you should take the green coating off. Mine would slide out of the clamp when I would start to flair.

Elephant tastes good!

MadMaxetc's 1963 Build

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