hello there from San Antonio Texas! I have a stocker 1966 LWB w/ a 390 and C6 Auto and I am getting ready to install an Edelbrock performer 390 manifold and an Edelbrock 750 carb. I've heard mixed opinions on whether or not this is the carb for setup. stock heads, stock internals... so is there anyone out there who has run this combo? opinions, let me know as I am open to suggestions...Thanks
-Alfred
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It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
watching this one i am in the same boat . need to decide on a carb. you running headers? i am an have bumped it with a .o6 over bore.
Hot Rod Rock every Tuesday 3-5pm Eastern on http://www.wslr.org
63 f100, 64 dodge polara, 74 john player norton, lots of rd 350's & 400's,
1977 kz650 (it's a sickness...)
I don't have the exact combo, but i'm close. I'm running a stock bottom end 390 with a factory cast iron 4V intake and Hedman hedders backed up with a C6. I have a 750 Holley on it and it is way too much carb. After chatting with the fellas over at the FE forum, a 600-650 cfm carb would have been much more appropriate. Hope this helps.
What's in the garage at any given moment?
FE powered Bump
93 Lightning
66 Slick strewn all over the place
08 Taurus
13" Huffy W/ training wheels
Wanting to overcarb is a common problem, but unless you are building a track-only beast, less can sometimes be more (within reason).
I have an old pocketbook from back in the day called The H & H Pocket Dyno. In this book there is plenty of good info, and many useful formula's.
The formula for calculating the required CFM for a carb is below..... ***keep in mind, the results of the formula are assuming 100% volumetric efficiency, which few street engines ever achieve......
CFM= (CID)*(RPM)/3456
So, lets say you NEVER rev your 390 past 4500RPM
CFM=(390)*(4500)/3456 --> CFM=507.8
Want to go crazy & rev it to 6000?
CFM=(390)*(6000)/3456 --> CFM=677.08
We could go on for ages about all the reasons for going bigger, staying smaller......but this little exercise is usually an eye opener for many who come from the bigger is better school of thought:):)
I agree with jamesdfo about over carburation. Altho a lot depends on the intended use of the vehicle. If it is intended to be a working rig then over carburation isn't so much of an issue. My break point is in the 400 cid area. Personally I am a big block user, 429/460 and I can get away with a 750 cfm carb but it needs to be a vacume secondary and it needs to be tuned for the intended use. I prefer a holley or holley style carb that is tuneable on the secondaries. I tune for 3000 to 3600 RPM wide open throttle under load.
In "my opinion" anything between a 600 to 700 cfm will be quite sufficiant for under 400 cid and street driven with towing or heavy hauling not the intended use. In short, smaller carb equals sharper throttle response faster acceleration.
Mike Kincheloe
Mikes Old Trucks
I restore old trucks and cars
1962 UNI Short Box, Stock Y block, 4 speed
1972 F 250 4X4 429 4 speed Dana 70 rear
1977 F 350 Camper Special, Ranger, Super Cab
1950 F7 Cab and Chassis
1976 F150 4 Speed 4 X 4
1996 Taurus
I ran an Edelbrock Performer 390 intake with a Holley Truck Avenger 670 carb on my old 352 and that combo worked pretty well. It was probably still a little much carb for my engine, but given you're running a 390 with a few more cubic inches, I'd think it would be alright. Don't get me wrong though, I had the Holley running great on my truck and was very pleased with the combo.
Having said all that though, knowing what I now know about intakes available for the FE engine, if I was buying an intake again (which I actually did for my new engine), I'd go with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. If you do some searching over on the FordFE.com forum, you'll come up with a lot of information on why the RPM is a better option... and it shouldn't hurt given your application which is a pretty stock engine overall.
a 750 will be fine with an edelbrock but keep fuel pressure under 7 lbs prefer about 6 lbs and make sure you have a thick gasket to keep heat out of the carb
why put off till tommorow what you can put off alltogether
Thanks all for the quick feedback, I do have a Holley 650 somewhere around here and more than likely will bolt that one up. I had gotten a really good deal on the 750 and was excited to use it. But like yall mentioned, this is my DD that i ocassionaly open up from time to time lol No track Beast here... I will keep you posted on my progress, i should have the headers in this weekend and then the intake and carb to follow...
It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
Like always S**T happens! I began to pull the original exhaust manifolds off this weekend and I broke a bolt which happened to hide inside of the block. I attempted to drill the sucker out but broke a few bits in the process. So now the headers are on the backburner.
But as for the carb i was able to make a change. My pops has a '64 SWB that hes been working on slowly(really slow lol) that had an Edelbrock 1405 600cfm mated to his 351W. Since his project isnt going anywhere he had metioned that I could take his 600 as long as he could have the 750. So i jumped on it, but come to find out it needs to be rebuilt. I have the kit available but a little hesitant to tackle the job. From what ive read its a simple task but im not sure i want to fudge up considering the carb is an integral part of the engine system...
It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
why does it need a rebuild? If you need to clean it jist reove the metering rods and the top of the carb and wash it out and blow it out, otherwise there isnt much you can rebuild. Many carbs get "REBUILT" for nothing.
why put off till tommorow what you can put off alltogether
cooter wrote:why does it need a rebuild? If you need to clean it jist reove the metering rods and the top of the carb and wash it out and blow it out, otherwise there isnt much you can rebuild. Many carbs get "REBUILT" for nothing.
Well my father mentioned that when he ran the truck it began to sputter at times as if it was dirty. Well come to find out with all his infinite wisdom and perfection he had installed the fuel filter wrong allowing gunk to pass thru. I havent opened it up to view the said gunk but i was going to rebuild it to be on the safe side i guess.
It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
i dont think reversing the filter will allow dirt to pass through. take out the idle screws and metering rods and spray some carb cleaner through and reinstall it.
why put off till tommorow what you can put off alltogether
cooter wrote:i dont think reversing the filter will allow dirt to pass through. take out the idle screws and metering rods and spray some carb cleaner through and reinstall it.
I will definitely do that, I am just going on hear say so I'm not sure of the extent of the gunk in the carb...
It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
A stock 390 can be pleanty peppy with the correct carb and headers alone. Do you have the factory C6AE R heads? Those are amoung the best street heads you can have. Check out fordfe.com and search the great intake comparrison. The factory intake out performed some of the aftermarket intakes.
Holley carbs are very sensitive to dirt but edelbrock seems to be less sensitive but make sure to keep the fuel pressure down. A 600 will normally run better in lower rpm ranges while the 750 will make more power at mid to higher rpms. 390s are good strong runners as chris stated.
why put off till tommorow what you can put off alltogether
chris401 wrote:A stock 390 can be pleanty peppy with the correct carb and headers alone. Do you have the factory C6AE R heads? Those are amoung the best street heads you can have. Check out fordfe.com and search the great intake comparrison. The factory intake out performed some of the aftermarket intakes.
I believe so but i cant be sure, how do i identify the heads? And as for headers i have some flowtech mids that i need to install once i get some more time. I also did read a bit about the 4v intake manifold out doing alot of the aftermarket stuff but that was after i bought the performer...
It is better to die on your feet than to live a lifetime on your knees. -Emiliano Zapata
Look between the center spark plugs. If they are original for 66 it should be C6AE 6090 R. The 6090 is just a casting group and was missing on some castings. Have you verified the stroke? Hope this helps.