Finally, some progress

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » February 16, 2012, 7:42 pm

Finally, I made some more progress on Nadine. I got most of my body parts epoxy primered and then shot the high build on them. As soon as I block sand them, I can start to shoot color. I don't have a lot of room so I'm doing them as components. So far the ones I've already done look pretty good. You probably couldn't do that with a regular or metalic color, but with white, you can get away with stuff like that.
Then, while watching paint (primer) dry, I finished the wiring harness.
Now all I need to do is pick a place to put the fuse block and I can start hooking up wires. Nothing like a little success to get your blood running again.
Its 8x8 so does anyone have any suggestions? I'm leaning to putting it where the old heater core was located.
Or, build an aluminum glove box insert and bolt it to the bottom of the box.
???????????????? other ideas?

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » February 16, 2012, 7:46 pm

I like Dave's location for access, but it would limit a/c choices, unless you already have that figured out, or plan to go with underdash.
His use of the "glow" fuses is a neat trick; if something goes wrong , you can immediately tell if it's a fuse while driving.
Paul

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » February 16, 2012, 7:54 pm

How did Dave locate his fuse block. Or are you talking about Dale?
Yes, I'm leaning that way.

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » February 16, 2012, 7:56 pm

Uncle Skip wrote:How did Dave locate his fuse block. Or are you talking about Dale?
Yes, I'm leaning that way.

Can't spell, can't type, pretty soon I won't be able to turn wrenches

Yes, I was referring to Dale.
Paul

Post by **Greg D** » February 16, 2012, 7:57 pm

You could always mount a plate to put it on,
far enough up under to be inconspicuous - close enough to the bottom of the dash for easy access.

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » February 16, 2012, 7:59 pm

US: It has become more difficult for me to lean under and around things like steering columns and dashes to check fuses, so when I installed a '90s under-hood fuse and relay box for added circuits, I decided to follow Ford's practice and put it on the inner fender under the hood. (You may recall I kept all the original wiring, but only original components draw power through it. The electronic ignition, electric choke and brakes and the like run off the newer fuse box and relays.)
I salvaged a 2" rubber harness firewall plug from an '80s truck to pass the extra wiring through the firewall into the cab. It looks professional, is easy to troubleshoot and no more bending down and around.
Just my thoughts on the subject.

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » February 16, 2012, 8:12 pm

banjopicker66 wrote:US: It has become more difficult for me to lean under and around things like steering columns and dashes to check fuses, so when I installed a '90s under-hood fuse and relay box for added circuits, I decided to follow Ford's practice and put it on the inner fender under the hood. (You may recall I kept all the original wiring, but only original components draw power through it. The electronic ignition, electric choke and brakes and the like run off the newer fuse box and relays.)
I salvaged a 2" rubber harness firewall plug from an '80s truck to pass the extra wiring through the firewall into the cab. It looks professional, is easy to troubleshoot and no more bending down and around.
Just my thoughts on the subject.

Alright, ADA aproved!
Could do like my :cussing:Chebbies; THREE separate fuse boxes, two accessible, and then there's the one you really need to access..
Paul

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » February 16, 2012, 8:16 pm

Guys, I have a "vintage" Ron Francis fuse block, so I don't know if it would work under the hood with the heat and moisture exposure. I'd like to put it on the inner fender, but I suspect issues.
Actually, placement is a major issue. I appreciate any input, but for now, I'm leaning to putting it in the passenger side foot well corner where the heater used to go. The aluminum glove box idea is pretty cool, I built one for my old CD changer, but you can't see the fuses unless you stand on your head. I'm to damn old for that.
Help me.
Help me.

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » February 16, 2012, 8:23 pm

A sealed SMC or phenolic electrical J-box of sufficient size would solve the under-hood issues. I use smaller versions on my trailer tongues.
If you wanted to mount it under the glovebox, you could always make it to pivot outward.
Paul

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » February 16, 2012, 8:26 pm

Paul. We need to talk about sources. I tried to get a waterproof enclosure but they are so damn bulky.
Give me a call this weekend.
Remember, Conroe Saturday......

Toyz · Post by **Toyz** » February 16, 2012, 9:00 pm

Give me your needed dimensions and I'll look. I should have a couple of new ones left, plus some off the SeaDoos and other PWC's , and access to more.
Paul

huckdeuceman · Post by **huckdeuceman** » February 16, 2012, 11:52 pm

This is why I'm thinkin about having a couple more kid's ...as the one's I have now are starting to get ake's and pains just
like the ole man, lol...seams as tho time is running out for all my family....??haha, kidding!...not?

Finally, some progress

Finally, some progress

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