"Stainless"

[Shadow]

Got My New Inner-Fenders & Core Support Painted And Ready To Re-Assemble The Front End. Most Of The Bolts & J-Nuts Either Broke Or Are Unusable. I'm Wanting To Borrow A Page From Uncle Skips Playbook And Use Stainless Button-Top Fender Bolts In The Engine Compartment. I'm Looking At A Few Sources For Hardware Any Tips? "Fastenal" Has What I Need But Pricey. Are There Any Affordable Kits Available For The These Front Ends?....................................................

[Toyz]

Dana, I don't know if there is a button-top kit available. Two local Ace Hardware Stores here carry the cap-screws in both stainless and chrome. I suspect they are available thru any Ace, but as you stated, they are pricey. I ordered a bunch from an industrial supplier in "stainless"; out of the same purchase, so still appear new. A few have corroded noticeably, making me believe they are mixed grades. I have had similar experience with hardware from Fastenal. The chrome has held up well, so far, but were $3.00/4.00 per capscrew!
Ballerbolts.com has titanium and stainless; they no longer sell the made up metric kits for the ricers; haven't checked their current pricing, but since they are "aerospace", I would hope the quality is good. Makes me wonder if that would be something "The Yard" in Wichita might have a source on.
I am going to have to be the guinea pig and order a chrome assortment on-line to determine the quality/ value, but am hesitant to do that after these experiences.I am tempted to just go ahead and order some from ARP, if available. Hopefully, someone will weigh in with their experiences.
Paul

[1green66]

I'm a new guy on here but saw your post and have some input. Try looking up Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA (I'm not sure of their website). They have a fair amount of automotive stainless available.

Keep in mind that stainless likes to do one of two things: Vibrate loose or gall up. Use lock washers and anti-sieze.

[Toyz]

X2 on the anti-seize; lock washers are not something I would want on my applications. If one were worried, Loctite would be a good choice; I've had few problems with loosening in all these year. That includes self-loosening and removal. The problems have been with my stupidity in bypassing the anti-seize. A good nickel anti-seize does wonders!
Got me on a roll now . hilcofasteners.com has stainless button head 5/16" x 1'' wide head for around $5.00 for ten. I've dealt with Hilco for industrial items, so I'll give them a try!
Paul

[Uncle Skip]

I buy mine in bulk at the local fastener warehouse here in Houston. I'm using 5/16-18 with stainless lock nuts and washers. I usually pay about 17 bucks total for a box of 25 each.
Some of the bolts are 5/16-24 so if you're replacing bolts in general, check the thread size before you start trying to force them in the threaded holes.
Do use never seize on the threads.

I can double check the pricing on the bolts and nuts and maybe get them for you if you can't find them locally.

[Shadow]

Thanks For The Input Guys. I Was Planning On Using Either Stainless Or Chrome Button Tops On The Top Of The Fenders On Both Sides. I Think There's 9 On Each Side. Then There Is The Rest Of The Inner Fender Bolts, Core Support To Radiator Bolts, J-Nuts, Grill Bolts Etc. I Don't Really Have To Have Those In Stainless Since They Won't Be Seen. I Was Just Trying To Find Out If There Is A Package Available At An Affordable Price. I Think "Classic" In OKC Has A Kit Of Bolts Available For The Fenders & I Could Get The Chrome "Button-Tops" From Fastenal. Just Thought I Would Ask The Experts Who Are More Knowledgeable.......

[Shadow]

Oh-Yeah, Anyone Got Any Pictures Of Their Finished Engine Compartments? I Tried To Find Uncle-Skip's I Remember Seeing His With The Fancy Hardware Installed. Thanks Again....

[kstones63]

I used chrome button head bolts on the fender to inner fenders on my truck. I bought them from www.pointe-products.com They were the most reasonable price when I did mine.
I don't have any pics showing the bolts in place.
If you use stainless, they now make a Loctite anti-sieze that would probably work well to keep them from galling and also working loose. I saw something about this on TV one day.

Kevin

[Toyz]

Photobucket ain't cooperating tonight. Only one I could locate was those on the side tool box. I'll get some engine compartment shots this weekend; after washing
Paul

[Mr. Jones]

Be sure you have a magnet handy and check,like Toys said,"Mixed metals"if it sticks move on.

[Toyz]

Be sure you have a magnet handy and check,like Toys said,"Mixed metals"if it sticks move on.

Absolutely, it may be a low grade stainless with some magnetic properties. Not something I would want for my uses!
Paul

[Uncle Skip]

Here are a couple of shots for you to look at.
*These were taken before I installed Kevin's tilt hood kit.
Again, I use "never-seize" with a washer under the head of the bolt to keep the paint from chipping when you crank it down, and a matching stainless fiber lock nut and washer on the bottom.

BTW.
Low grade 400 series stainless (these are not) are fine for sheet metal.

[Toyz]

While they may be fine for fasteners the 400 grades of stainless are, as a rule, less corrosion resistant than the austenitic grades. I suspect that to be my problem; evidently some 400 grades were mixed with my specified 316 hardware. It's easy to determine after purchase; in layman's terms, the 400 grades have more magnetic attraction than 316.
Paul

[Shadow]

Those Look Great. Last Night I Saw Some Button-Head Bolts With A Black-Matte Finish That Looked Similar To Black Oxide. Those Might Look Cool As Well....

[LM14]

Try here

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=qi8jju

SPark

[Alan Mclennan]

I used S/Steel button head bolts on nearly all of Lenore, even buffed some of them, just remember when placing the washer, put the smooth side down, you wont notice it that much but if you put the smooth side up the sharp edge from when it was stamped will dig into your paint and next thing you know rust will get in...