361/391 Truck Oil Pans

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 24, 2007, 9:13 pm

Will these work OK on a 65 or 66? they appear to be larger than our 352/390 pans. They don't look to be any deeper but they don't have the kick up. Pic at top left of this page.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/album.php?user_id=77

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 25, 2007, 9:19 am

Anybody........................

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » January 25, 2007, 9:35 am

Hang on Jim those FE guys need more sleep than others

Truckfarmer · Post by **Truckfarmer** » January 25, 2007, 11:06 am

I have a 10 quart oilpan from a FT engine on my 390 in my 66. It fits just fine!

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » January 25, 2007, 11:33 am

And there you have it.

I was gonna post my assumption (that it would fit), but it would have only been my guess.

One question though, does that pan have any baffles in it? Being such a large area, that could really make for a lot of oil sloshing around dusring quick starts/stops/turns.
I would think it could drown the crank at high rpm's.

F-Zilla · Post by **F-Zilla** » January 25, 2007, 11:54 am

If you are talking about the pan that looks like a loaf of bread, it will work fine. When I put mine together, that's what I will look for.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 25, 2007, 11:56 am

Jim.
It'll work just fine.
As for dragging the crank thru the oil, thats what a windage tray is for.
AND, the windage tray is still available from Ford Motorsports and it comes with two gaskets in the box, that is, if you can convince one of the young parts guys to look it up for you on the old microfische system. It ain't on the computer. Worth every penny too.
U@ss

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 25, 2007, 12:12 pm

Slick Fan wrote:And there you have it.
I was gonna post my assumption (that it would fit), but it would have only been my guess.

One question though, does that pan have any baffles in it? Being such a large area, that could really make for a lot of oil sloshing around dusring quick starts/stops/turns.
I would think it could drown the crank at high rpm's.

If it doesn't have enough, I'll ad'em.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 25, 2007, 12:14 pm

Truckfarmer wrote:I have a 10 quart oilpan from a FT engine on my 390 in my 66. It fits just fine!

Thank You Mr. TF,
Did you add any baffles to your pan?

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 25, 2007, 12:15 pm

Thanks to all that chimed in. As usual, this is the place to be!!

Truckfarmer · Post by **Truckfarmer** » January 25, 2007, 12:35 pm

I did not add any baffles to my pan. There is a plate that the sump goes through. I like the idea of having the extra capacity because of the FE's tendency to fill the valve covers at high RPM's. Does get a tad spendy when you fill it with Mobil 1 synthetic oil though.
I have an extra oilpan for sale if any body needs one.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » January 25, 2007, 1:18 pm

Johnny Canuck wrote:Hang on Jim those FE guys need more sleep than others

hey, i resemble that!

besides it was 1:15 am when the post was made

jeepbut · Post by **jeepbut** » January 25, 2007, 7:43 pm

Greg, I sent PM about oil pan. Thanks, Lyman.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 25, 2007, 8:02 pm

Johnny Canuck wrote:Hang on Jim those FE guys need more sleep than others

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 29, 2007, 12:38 pm

Truckfarmer wrote:I did not add any baffles to my pan. There is a plate that the sump goes through. I like the idea of having the extra capacity because of the FE's tendency to fill the valve covers at high RPM's. Does get a tad spendy when you fill it with Mobil 1 synthetic oil though.
I have an extra oilpan for sale if any body needs one.

Would restricting the oil supply to the rockers keep the valver covers from filling?

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 29, 2007, 12:58 pm

Gentlemen.
Yes to Jim's question about restricting the oil passage on an FE motor.
Always, I mean always, restrict the oil passage under the center rocker stands.
I used a small flared piece of 3/16 brake line, flared side down, to close up the hole and I don't get floods of oil in the valve cover. It keeps the pressure on the bottom end where its supposed to be.
The Ford performance book says you can make the hole as small as 1/16" with no problems, I just didn't want to try to drill a hole in the end of a piece of round metal... no lathe don't you know.
U@ss

joeymac64 · Post by **joeymac64** » January 30, 2007, 10:02 am

my engine builder opened and polished the drain holes on the back of the heads where the bolt passes tru and restrictes the flow and tapped the oil holes and used set screws with a hole drilled thru it can run the engine with no valve covers and no back up of oil at the drain holes my builder is close to 80 built engines all his life race and collectors very meticules in his builds

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 30, 2007, 10:51 am

You are correct, again.

But I built my own motor and didn't have a tap for the holes so I used the insert.
That is the correct way to do it if you have someone who can do that work for you. My way works too, just not as fancy.
BTW
Also, tapping the freeze plugs and threading in some plumbers plugs is the correct way for the block.
Freeze plugs are not for freezing antifreeze. They are openings in the block for casting sand cleanout. Freeze plugs are a cheap and quick way to seal up those openings.
The threaded plumbers plugs are for sealing and strengthening the side walls of the block.
U@ss

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 30, 2007, 3:18 pm

And punctuation helps...................

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » January 30, 2007, 3:42 pm

Skip while i do understand the strength issue with the threaded plugs, but being from the north have seen the pressed ones pop from lack of anti-freeze, thereby saving the engine from more serious damage.
i have also seen them not pop out, and make nasty cracks, due to being too tight in the hole.
the only way to get the threaded plugs is to take your block to a shop, unless you can afford the tap, which is going to be difficult to find anyway.
improper use of the tapered thread tap (not being straight in the hole)
could crack the wall then you are up the creek.reason i mention this is the many thousands of holes i have tapped back in my tool and die days.

the oil restrictor plug or screw is easy, pressing a tube into the hole as you did can be done with things intact but drilling and tapping will get shavings in that hole which must be removed.